What should I do?
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From: East Side Performance! mASShole
What should I do? Im starting my motor build up, Just wanted some opinions, Alum 348 ci? Or a Iron 372ci?
Looking to boost it, then future swap to fast and more boost. Main question is, Is it worth the extra money and LBS to go Iron or stick with a lighter alum block?
Thanks in advance.
Looking to boost it, then future swap to fast and more boost. Main question is, Is it worth the extra money and LBS to go Iron or stick with a lighter alum block?
Thanks in advance.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,048
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From: Raleigh, NC
Re: What should I do? The Iron Block will have more heat soak and could give you cooling issues. I don't know that a 372 would produce significant gains over the 348, when you consider 70+ lbs. up front and how each degree of heat robs horsepower.
If you are not planning on exceeding 600 RWHP, moving from the Aluminum block may be unnecessary.
My2Cents.
If you are not planning on exceeding 600 RWHP, moving from the Aluminum block may be unnecessary.
My2Cents.
Re: What should I do? I'm going with iron due to cost and reliability. It adds some weight to the front (80-90lbs) but I'd rather have a boosted iron block for piece of mind. The only thing with the iron blocks is you can't bore them that large. I sonic tested 2 6.0 blocks and found I could go .030 max, .060 would be too much.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Chi-Town, IL
Re: What should I do? I went .40" over to get 372c.i.
I'm running a CAS high capacity radiator, and a spal 16" 2700cfm fan, my temps are around 170-180, and I have the stock thermo....thats in the heat of summer too....
So far so good, just need to get my friggin belt/pulley/bracket problem fixed...
I'm running a CAS high capacity radiator, and a spal 16" 2700cfm fan, my temps are around 170-180, and I have the stock thermo....thats in the heat of summer too....
So far so good, just need to get my friggin belt/pulley/bracket problem fixed...
Re: What should I do? I'd stick with the aluminum. ARE has a big bore aluminum special right now for 10% off which puts the block at $2160 or so. By the time you buy an iron block, have it machined like the ARE block and throw the ARP studs on it, you will be getting pretty close to the aluminum price.
Also, as far as weight goes, my Powerdyne kit on a mostly stock weight car weighed in at 3640 (without driver) with 2/3 tank of gas, so weight is definitely as issue in my opinion. This was on the scales at Mid-Michigan Dragway at the Z28.com nationals.
-Geoff
Also, as far as weight goes, my Powerdyne kit on a mostly stock weight car weighed in at 3640 (without driver) with 2/3 tank of gas, so weight is definitely as issue in my opinion. This was on the scales at Mid-Michigan Dragway at the Z28.com nationals.
-Geoff
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Thread Starter
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From: East Side Performance! mASShole
Re: What should I do? Seems like ether way is ok, They both have good and bad points. Im told more cubes will make more power with a little less boost and less octain IE race gas all the time. Also, Alum block should be able to push 700 befor heads lift if its done right, Right?
It almost sounds like alum would be better for me, Im hering people say added lbs makes the car handle diferant, and sit different. I want to drive all the time, maybe I might have to sleeve an alum block. get the best of both worlds, cubes and weight reduction.
It almost sounds like alum would be better for me, Im hering people say added lbs makes the car handle diferant, and sit different. I want to drive all the time, maybe I might have to sleeve an alum block. get the best of both worlds, cubes and weight reduction.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Chi-Town, IL
Re: What should I do? Well my car does sit a bit lower in the front, I am also running skinnies all the time, but I'm running coil over HAL's in the front...and they were set not so soft, and I took off some FLP clamps pushing it too far....other than that, turning and what not isn't an issue at all....