1slowCamaro

I just bought a 414 shortblock to use along with my D-1SC. I'm going to be running:

TEA stage 3 6.0 heads
226/234 .598 .599 117lsa (speed inc project car cam)
MMS 7.85" SC crank pulley
58 lb. injectors
Mac headers with offroad Y pipe
9.5:1 CR

Now my question is what SC pulley should I try so I can get 8psi at around 6800 rpms? With my stock engine a 4.38" pulley put me at 8-9psi at 6200rpms. Any guesses are welcome.

I'm wondering what Mike (BlackLS1TA) is running for a pulley size in his 422 to get 8psi?

Thanks, Justin

Black LS1 T/A

I'm running the 3.60 pulley. But, found my SC impellor was damaged from once when the Inlet Hat came off and radiator wiring got chewed up during a launch. I took the off-time to have my tranny looked at, too. I have to let you know how it does once I get everything back together.

BIGBOS

Trying to get my 8 rib setup together has been a mess.....the ATI brackets I guess are junk...

I'm running a 7.85" crank pulley, and a 3.3" blower pulley....trying to get 12psi...

1slowCamaro

Mike: When I damaged my impeller last summer it was chewed up pretty bad and it still made the same boost. Now thats a good blower! I didnt know it was messed up until I took the blower out of the car to investigate a weird noise. Are you getting yours rebuilt right now? What RPM were you making 8psi at? I have a 3.7" pulley. It would be nice if I could use that one. I found 58 lb injectors that aren't low impedance. I just dont want to run out of injector with the boost level I choose. 8-12psi is fine with me if the injectors can handle it. Keep me posted with what happens once you get it back together.

BIGBOS: What size motor are you running?

Crunch

I was wondering what was the low-down on that car. I'm still waiting to the see the "GWP 422 Blower Motor" light up the track. You know we all brag about that car. I still remember the "revenge of the big-block" stories.
Hope its back on the street soon. I might have to come to carolina and pay a visit, see if I can keep up!

BIGBOS

Its a 6.0L 372 motor...

Black LS1 T/A

I will keep you posted.

ATI thought I may lose a couple PSI with the impeller damage, but I don't know... changing motors, changing pullies, changing MAF position, it all starts to blur. Yes... I got them to replace the impeller and replace seals in the compressor.

Fuel is my problem, too. I'm close to giving it all I can give it at 8 PSI. I maxed the 42's at over 100% commanded. I'm about 80% already with the 55's at 6300 to 6500 RPMs at 8 PSI. When the injector duty cycle hits 90% I'm quitting (whatever boost that is) until I can find a way (and money) to increase fuel supply effectively.

I don't have to run 9 sec. I just want consistent 10's. My goal from the start was to make a little better ET without danger of killing the motor. (Hi-10's at nearly 130 MPH would be nice). I see where Scott is running and I have no fuel setup like the F.A.S.T. and am still tryint ot do it with a 4L60E and 3400 stall. These guys are stepping to TH400 trannies and in some cases much hihger stall.

I knew it was just a matter of time with the stock motor and stock bottom end running it at 10 PSI before I killed it. My best time ever was 10.98 at 125.83. Most of the time I was making like 11.22 or 11.11 or 11.26 type ET's at about 126 MPH. I would like mid to hi-10's at 130, but safe on the motor. I'd be happy. But, I'm finding at these power levels, it's hard to stop breaking stuff. I don't know if I can keep a 4L60E working at these power levels. Some say yes, some say no, some say 'maybe'.

Black LS1 T/A

HA HA! Yep, them was some fun days!

However, I detonated at WOT on pump gas... I had to either mix race gas or add TORCO Fuel Additive to go racing.

The build goal with my motor was, one, to handle 500+ RWHP on pump gas (93 octane with 5 to 8 PSI) and two, up to 12 or 13 PSI and 600+ RWHP with race gas. I'm actually there with the first goal. Problems getting me to the 2nd "race gas" goal has been broken drivetrain components, not enough fuel for the boost levels and difficulty keeping boost there (slippage). I just don't have enough funds to charge ahead with solving these issues in a timely manner.

(Oh... and another big inhibiter is the iron block retains heat for longer, sapping power on successive runs. Cooling with the iron block in summer heat has been dismal.)

I can tell you that the power in 1st and 2nd (with the 422) at only half the boost as I made with the stock cubes is MUCH greater. 3rd feels weaker and my stall is a bit lower.

I instantly hit 8 PSI and QUICKLY peaked at 10 PSI, before. Now I hit 5 PSI and it slowly ramps to 8 at ideal shift point, maybe 9 if I spin higher. So much of my run is at only HALF the boost level I used to run. It is going to require me getting the boost at LEAST back to the levels I had it to before to push a heavier car down the track at significantly quicker ET and faster MPH. It needs that top-end umph only bringing the boost back up can give it.

Right now, I'm running about the same times and bit slower MPH. I'm around 11.21 at 123 MPH.

scottywheels

Im running a 8.5 inch crank and a 4.50 inch blower pulley, Im seeing 15 psi but ill be going to the 3.60 blower pulley with the new innercooler so I can run 22-24 psi.

BIGBOS

Scott I got a 3.60" I'm looking to get rid of, its the RR one....let me know if your interested...

1slowCamaro

What are the biggest high impedance injectors available? I found 58 pounders at the MMS website. I know I'm not willing to go the FAST route. Dont have the $ and I wont for a long time.

Scott I cant wait to see what your car does at 22-24psi!!!

Mike do you regret buying the iron block because of the added weight and heat? Just wondering cuz I wanted to stay away from that but I gave in. Hoping I made a good decision. I know what you're saying about making good power while being safe on the motor. I'd be happy running 8-10psi and I think that would be pretty safe on a fully forged motor with a good tune and enough fuel. I think I'll just try using that 3.7" pulley I have. I wonder if it will slip since I'm still using the 6rib.

Black LS1 T/A

1SlowCamaro,

Don't get me wrong... I love the 422 cubes and don't want to sound unappreciative. But, if I had it to do again, I'd stroke my aluminum block to a 383. Why?

- Less weight up front. Quicker ET's, higher MPH for same power. Less wieght to push = less breakage of drivetrain parts.

- Cooler operating temps and less heat soak.

- I believe it would not require as much fuel to get the same hp. Maybe that doesn't make much sense, but I thing that may be so.

- For the power levels I really wanted, the added stability of the Iron Block may be unneccesary.

- I think I'd rather have 650 RWHP / 525 RWTQ than 525 RWHP / 650 RWTQ.

But, the Iron Block has it's place, and if I could afford to take it to it's potential, I think it would be safer for excess of 600 RWHP than the stock aluminum block. Now, a C5R block would be a different story!

2001WS6Vert

BlackLS1TA, I feel your pain. On my car I am taking baby steps at this point because I just am plain tired of the car breaking. I'm trying to round it off at about this point and fine tune the little problems and remain in a relatively safe area. Have you considered the F-1 ATI because that iron block should really shine with the higher boost it should be capable of? Put a race gas tune on it and see what happens at the track with the good fuel. Don't get down man, hell your the inspiration for half the people on this board. Most of the big money has been invested. Take it to the next level. Good luck. Tom

1slowCamaro

BlackLS1TA: What compression are you running in that thing? I now think I'm going to end up with a 10:1 CR with the shortblock I bought. I suppose thats fine for only 8-10psi.

2001WS6Vert: What are you making for power right now and at what boost level? What are your cam specs? What size injector are you using?

Black LS1 T/A

I believe it is 9.5:1, I'd have to ask again.

I believe you will have to mix some higher octane to run 10:1 CR and 10 PSI. You should be able to get away with 7 or 8 max on 93 or 94 octane.

My2cents.

Black LS1 T/A

1SlowCamaro, I just don't know, with the built 414. If you drop the timing enough, you should be able to run 10 PSI. I guess you will have to tell us when you find out.

1slowCamaro

I just found out my insurance is no good for drivers under 25 which includes me cuz I'm 22 so I have a feeling its going to jump a nice amount when I get it to actually cover me. Scary to think that all this time my car wasnt covered when I was out screwin around.

Due to that fact I'll probably be driving it less so I'm considering just having it tuned with 100 octane. I also want it tuned with a 100 wet shot too though. I'll let ya know how it goes when its done.

2001WS6Vert

1slow Camaro, I'm still working out bugs so I still don't have a strong dyno or real strong times. With the right bank mis-firing due to stock fuel rails it put out 500hp-500tq on a Mustang dyno. I have 9lbs. boost on the 2.95 pulley and use high impedance 55lb. injectors. I am working on the fuel system still. I have the rails + dual Walbro's but need everything in between. I can only get 15 degrees timing in on pump gas. I'm hoping that water/alky innjection might let me go to 20+.