superbee_68

iTrader: (3)

Also, the pvc could be run far away from the exhaust, and tucked in tight with ease because it could be made with no glue first to make sure it is a perfect fit.

And pvc is a very poor heat conductor, so a heat shield could solve any heat problems, and for under the hood it would be logical to switch back to steel. PVC is fairly strong but its also flexible, and if it cracks or breaks because of bottoming out, it takes you 20 minutes and $20 to patch it.

jeffboy757

iTrader: (14)

hey superbee can you link me to that high temp pvc??

superbee_68

iTrader: (3)

http://www.harvel.com/piping-cpvc.asp

1320

iTrader: (6)

Uh....becasue 200 probably isnt enough anyways....I thought the previous post covered this?

The IAT is different from air intake temp pre intercooler. Why are you guys intent on reinventing the wheel? $20 and 20 min to replace if you crack it? Really, steel diesnt crack that easily, so I guess it saves you 20$ and 20 min soemtimes. Steel also isnt very expensive. The other issue is, coupler sizing, due to the plastic thickeness, and the clamping forces needed to even hold boots on? Ive seen plenty of crushed aluminum pipes, it sounds like a great idea to crack, break, or shatter black plastic that could easily end up going through the intake system.

superbee_68

iTrader: (3)

Hey were not trying to reinvent the wheel, just trying to come up with new ways to acomplish the same thing.

The main reason I even thought of plastic was more for the simplicity of fabrication. Not many people have a mandrel bender in their garage, and of course steel is expensive.

Maybe a small section of steel should be used and then switch over to pvc, wouldn't the issue area be closest to the turbo itself. The heat would disapate enough before it reached the pvc?

CPVC comes in schedule 40 and schedule 80, one much thicker and sronger than the other. Many shops plumb thier air compressor lines at 130 psi in thier shops with high pressure pvc, so I think its plenty strong to hold 7 psi of boost, and handle the clamp pressure of the joints.

Why are we worried about breaking the plastic anyways, if its tucked up enough, and the driver doesn't go jumping bridges like the Dukes of Hazzard, it shouldn't be a problem?

Just throwing it out there, don't get hostile on me.

superbee_68

iTrader: (3)

Also remember, I said working temp is 200, but it takes 300 to make it start to get soft, I think it could take the abuse.

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

I would just use alu for the build. That pcv is going to hold alot of moisture you dont need that. Just pay for the alum and do it right the first time, Because a butt mount is a bitch.

lt170chevelle

iTrader: (2)

it seems to me the pvc would be more trouble than just buying some exhaust pipe and a few u bends and either weld it or clamp it and be done with it. Also i would think the temp of the charge all depends on the amount of boost being ran and the turbs efieciency.just my 2 cents tho. I have done a rear mount on my blazer before with a standalone oiling sytem.unfortunately my pump took a dump on my way home and didnt have anykind of saftey pressure switch yet and cooked the turbo.I got fed up and pulled it all off. But i still think its a good idea as long as you have a decent size oil tank,good oil pump,an efficient oil cooler, and of course a pressure switch. Not a whole lot to it..just a lil fabbing

geeteego

iTrader: (1)

To the OP,

A member on LS1GTO.com did a budget rear-mount build similar to what you are expressing. Here's the thread on it...it's quite entertaining.

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=243522

superbee_68

iTrader: (3)

I think I've come to the conclusion that welding up some inexpensive pipe would be worth the extra time and money instead of plastic. When I have the funds and available down time to take on this project, I'll be sure to photograph the progress and post it.

geeteego

iTrader: (1)

Awesome. Good luck!

jeffboy757

iTrader: (14)

well i really dont recomend using exhaust pipe for the intake pumbing.. first its REALLY heavy compared to alum. and it dosent disapate the heat nearly as good.. so if your using a metal, use alum..

i dont think peope are giving plastic enough credit lol, alum pipes bend easy and if your use tbolt clamps you can easily overtighen and crush it, anyone seen the oval shape alum tubing, that looks worth trying out

geeteego

iTrader: (1)

The problem with an oval shaped charge pipe would be effectively clamping it.

bigturboz28

I have actually used 2.5ID and 3.0ID ABS piping in a front mount setup to get everything dialed in when comparing different setups, it is quick and cheap and yes it will stand up to the temps / pressure, one problem you will face is blowing the rubber coupler joints off, I had to add brackets for anything over 25psi. However, it takes alot more space and would not recommend it for a permanent solution. Get some aluminum welded up and you will be fine, or buy straight aluminum pipe and use silicone couplers (only 4 layer not the cheap ones) with brackets to prevent blowoff (or get the ends ribbed). On a side note, I ended up using "TANK TRUCK" hose for my front mount under the hood application, it keeps the under hood temps heat out, it is VERY easy to install, and is inexpensive, and NO WAY will it explode, you will understand if you see it. I use 2.5ID from each turbo to the intercooler and a 3.0ID from the intercooler to the TB.