superbee_68

iTrader: (3)

I am stuck between doing heads, cam and nitris, or a rear mount turbo. Need some convincing. Its my only daily driver.

Anyway, the biggest problem I see is oiling, but my solution would be to build a tank and cooler to put in the back of the car with an electric oil pump that only oils the trubo. The oil would stay clean and prolong the life of the turbo. I would definately put safety switchs in case of failures. Anyone ever done this or see a problem with it?

Also for the cold side piping, I know this is gona sound weird but why not use high pressure pvc plastic to run to the front of the car. It may not be perfectly smooth inside, but it would be cheap and easy to run, and also woulnd't trap in heat. I can weld up mandrel tubes to make the piping but its going to be so expensive.


Any ideas or thoughts?
Please don't bash my ideas, I'm just throwing them out there.

dredoggy

iTrader: (2)

i thought about running pvc to i do think it would work. but they do have aluminum pipe kits out there sts kits run 2.25" most of the way but you might get away with 2.5 or 3". the only pipe you would have to have made is the long pipe from the back to the front, after that you would use your pipe kit that comes with 90's 45's and straits and all your couplings to make it fit. ebay has a nice intercooler pipe kit for $15o shipped and it even comes with a niffty bov that i have installed on my rearmount and it works great. i thougt about the oil in the back to im thinking that would be better the the sts way so give it a shot. then post picss for all to see.

superbee_68

iTrader: (3)

My Uncle has a turbo drag bike with a seperate oiling system for the turbo that has worked great for years. Anyway, I don't have the time or money to try something like this now but when I do, I'll be sure to post the project on here.

CamaroSS19

iTrader: (24)

I think if the pipeing is too much money consider other options . how much cheaper is the pcv I got all my pipes and quality silicone for about $500


A hand full of guys I have seen done the stand alone oil system they said it cost a little over 1k .

Just so you know I am doing my own custom rear mount also . Iam not to crazy aboyut DD it though mine will no longer be my dd

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

Heads and cam is my vote and I have a rear mount. FI is not cheap and your starting with a bug kit. Or just do a front mount with stock manifolds.

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

+1. If trying to do a "budget" build....H/C. FI is what ever you think the cost is going to be + another 50%.

dragcamaro

what are your goals? do you want to run on the track or the street? if its gonna be a track car id say h/c/n but its a driver i would go turbo. it just seems easier to cruise a turbo car with 3.23s or similar(zombie's car has 2.75's but hes got a th400) than a cammed car with 4.10s

fenix999

iTrader: (17)

I have a complete front mount single turbo setup for sale that you might be interested in, its for 98-02 Fbody's. Lemme know, Thanks!

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

+2 to your +1

mondols1

iTrader: (2)

if doing a diy rear mount couldnt you just modify your current exhaust system for the hot side and run new plumbing for the cold side?

67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

Fenix - Why are you selling your rear mount man? I miss my turbo TA! Piping is relatively inexpensive, especially if you know a guy at an exhaust shop. I'd do a front mount with truck mani's personally. Cheap, and not a ton of piping, AND, not having to rig up some oakie rigged standalone oiling system.

jeffboy757

iTrader: (14)

lets talk more about using pvc as the charge pipe.. i only problem i see would be if the car is to low, the pipes would crack if they hit rather than dent??

lets hear some more opinions

1320

iTrader: (6)

A quick google search reveal the max service temp for pvc is 140 degrees. I ve measure 300 degrees pre intercooler on one of my own cars, using a peak hold omega with a thrmocouple in th epipe. I ve also see ait on na cars, of 175 degrees, in the summer in a bank drive through line. 145 was not uncommon on the freeway at 70 mph. That was on a na lt1 in a large engine compartment, with lots of ventilation.

So besides the crack, vibration problems, the temp would kill it, and that doesnt account for running very close to exhuast, the engine, and just being under the hood.

jeffboy757

iTrader: (14)

im not too sure about your 300 degree temps?? mabye if you ran it right along the exhaust all the way up which is a terrible idea anyways.. after driving around for a while, i can reach down and grab the charge pipe with my hands and be ok.. the only hot spot i had is when it crossed in front of the radiator becuase the fans blew hot air on it, and heat shielding fixed that.. and dosent metal vibrate more than plastic?

but after seaching around it does look 140 is the temp they ont recomend goin over..

hmmm i still wonder if its worth trying

Schantin

iTrader: (6)

If PVC can only withstand 140 degrees, then I wouldn't even bother. Pre-intercooler I've measured IAT's at 160 degrees w/ the STS. That's still over 140.

1320

iTrader: (6)

My 300 degree pre intake temps were done on a single front mount@ 19 psi....with a large front mount intercooler. After intercooler were 150. Outside ambient was about 90-95.

With several rear mounts that I ve done, single and twins, we get iats of 110-125 post intercooler at 10-15 psi with ambients around 100. With water /meth iats drop to 66-80 degrees, but all this is post intercooler. Pre intercooler number would be around double.

nuclearxp

If it was my DD the answer is simple H/C and maybe nitrous. Getting into turbo kits means alot of downtime, problem solving, and tuning and possibly more $$ in the long run.

67Firebird455

iTrader: (27)

I'll agree with that. HC/Nitrous is less expensive in the long run. FI is damn expensive... fun... but expensive.

fenix999

iTrader: (17)

My IAT's are at 95-100* cruising and after a good run climb but they eventually come back to 100*. I dont know why you guys have such insane IAT's I use a 31x12x3" intercooler if thats makes any difference and i live in Miami, FL where its always 90* plus outside AND humid as hell on top of that only good thing down here is the elevation we are at is AWESOME haha =)

superbee_68

iTrader: (3)

Ok I found a high temp cpvc that the service temp is 200 degrees and doesn't become soft until 300 degrees. Why wouldn't this high temp pvc work?

And why does 67firebird455 say that a seperate oiling system would be "oakie rigged," I see more advantages to running the seperate oiling system:

turbo always sees clean oil

pressure can be set and constant and monitored

no complicated bs to fail, one simple pump and tank with a safety kill switch if it fails