Fitting a 106mm turbo...
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 45,324
Likes: 1,767
From: Chicago, IL
Fitting a 106mm turbo... I bought a 106mm turbo a while back and was looking at how to fit this thing without moving stuff around too much.
Looks to me like I could put the turbo higher and closer to the passenger side. What do you guys think?
Looks to me like I could put the turbo higher and closer to the passenger side. What do you guys think?
It will probably fit, but you're gonna have to move it over a good bit, and the downpipe and charge pipe will have to get redone, probably the feed pipe from the headers too.
I've seen Alfred's car and his is higher and over towards where the battery usually is alot more, and is facing the other direction from where yours is, and the feed pipe for the intercooler runs down where your downpipe is going.
Speaking of that, where does that downpipe go, back under the framerail out above the k member, or out the side in the front?
I've seen Alfred's car and his is higher and over towards where the battery usually is alot more, and is facing the other direction from where yours is, and the feed pipe for the intercooler runs down where your downpipe is going.
Speaking of that, where does that downpipe go, back under the framerail out above the k member, or out the side in the front?
another quesiton, weren't you having issues with the low compression of the 346 being too low to spool the 88 quick enough?
A 106 is gonna be alot harder to spool then the 88 was. Ask Alfred how that was for him, last time I talked to him about it he said it's making alot more upper rpm power but it seemed like he lost alot under 5000 rpm, the power curve is more like a supra now.
A 106 is gonna be alot harder to spool then the 88 was. Ask Alfred how that was for him, last time I talked to him about it he said it's making alot more upper rpm power but it seemed like he lost alot under 5000 rpm, the power curve is more like a supra now.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 45,324
Likes: 1,767
From: Chicago, IL
4" DP feeds a 4" Splitflow muffler that is hanging under the passenger side seat area, where that hump is.
Based on research I'd need to increase my engine cubes to 390-410ci to get the car to spool correctly. I have an LSX block in hand but I'm just kicking around some stuff right now. I know I'd have to modify my current hot and cold side setups.
Based on research I'd need to increase my engine cubes to 390-410ci to get the car to spool correctly. I have an LSX block in hand but I'm just kicking around some stuff right now. I know I'd have to modify my current hot and cold side setups.
screw it build a 427 and put the thing on there, that will spool the turbo no problem, and leave you with a big enough motor to go to a 114 later if you wanted.
Not that the chassis cert would be enough for that power level anyway
Not that the chassis cert would be enough for that power level anyway
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Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 45,324
Likes: 1,767
From: Chicago, IL
Not to worry about chassis cert, I can have my chassis guy do a 25.5 on the car anytime.
Mike @ Precision is emailing me the dimensions of the turbos so I can see how much needs to be moved.
Mike @ Precision is emailing me the dimensions of the turbos so I can see how much needs to be moved.
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John why not just change the heads on the car and get the compression up before bailing on the 88mm? You know that there's a ton left on the table with that turbo and the kit itself if you had the motor up at 9 to 9.5 to 1 compression.
That would be the cheapest route and probably the easiest. That alone would probably get you to the limit of the chassis cert.
Then have the car upgraded for a 25.5 and build the motor while the car's apart, then do the kit. It's probably a 4+ month project to do all of it anyway, if the car's gonna be down do it all at once, but in the meantime I would want to try to push what ya have first, unless it's hurt and you need to rebuild anyway.
That would be the cheapest route and probably the easiest. That alone would probably get you to the limit of the chassis cert.
Then have the car upgraded for a 25.5 and build the motor while the car's apart, then do the kit. It's probably a 4+ month project to do all of it anyway, if the car's gonna be down do it all at once, but in the meantime I would want to try to push what ya have first, unless it's hurt and you need to rebuild anyway.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 45,324
Likes: 1,767
From: Chicago, IL
I'm not bailing on the 88mm, but to run the car competitively in drag radial classes I need to figure out what needs to be changed.
Putting the turbo in the nose is very popular, it would require redoing my turbo kit and radiator setup.
I'm pretty sure I can put the turbo over more to where the battery was and make it all work.
Putting the turbo in the nose is very popular, it would require redoing my turbo kit and radiator setup.
I'm pretty sure I can put the turbo over more to where the battery was and make it all work.
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
If you are redoing the piping, would you be better off to spin the turbo 180 deg. so the compresser side is where the battery used to be? Seems like that would give you more room and you can turn a 90 on your downpipe and run it down and back under the car wherever you want it to go. Was it Kyle's TA that was like that I think?
It is hard to look at a picture and pick a placemet though. Much easier to just unbolt what you have and set the 106 in there and see how/where it fits.
It is hard to look at a picture and pick a placemet though. Much easier to just unbolt what you have and set the 106 in there and see how/where it fits.
for gauging purposes, this is an S88 with a blanket.... hot side doesn't have much play room, but no issues:
for a 106mm, IF it would fit up there, you would need it further over like NastyTA's... or down low. if you split the frame rail, you will need to notch it.
for a 106mm, IF it would fit up there, you would need it further over like NastyTA's... or down low. if you split the frame rail, you will need to notch it.
My setup wouldn't really work for you w/o alot more fab work and losing the stock hood latch. You can't see it in the picture, but I do have a full size radiator sitting in front of the bar I built since the car sees a few street miles.
