New BS3/turbo setup won't start
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From: East Brady, Pa
New BS3/turbo setup won't start Just turned the key for the first time on my new setup. It will crank but not fire. I have 60lb of fuel pressure at the rail. I think I got all of the initial BS3 setup done according to the instructions. Is there anything else I need to do with it since this is a turbo setup?
Bs3 Make sure all your connections are soldered, and that the pin connections are correct, meaning if you converted to a ls2 style block with the cam sensor in the front of the motor, make sure the wires are correct, a lot of the time you have to swap the wires in the plug.
Hope that helps
Hope that helps
CHECK YOUR GROUNDS! They should be installed directly to the battery. Will it fire if you spray starting fluid down the the throttle body? Double check that the proper LS1 firing order is commanded.
Hit BAL keys all at the same time and a small ball will come up in the upper right hand corner, it will be red. When the engine cranks it will turn grey and the ball will have a small dot rotating around it. If this happens your cam is wired right, if it stays red your wiring is wrong. If you have trouble call the dealer that sold you the box, they can run you through some checks.
Kurt
Kurt
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From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
Hit BAL keys all at the same time and a small ball will come up in the upper right hand corner, it will be red. When the engine cranks it will turn grey and the ball will have a small dot rotating around it. If this happens your cam is wired right, if it stays red your wiring is wrong. If you have trouble call the dealer that sold you the box, they can run you through some checks.
Kurt
Kurt
I had to pull out my old windows ME machine for "BAL" to workif you went LS2, then having the crossover harness did NOT work. for stock computers pins A and C need to be flipped (as provided by most crossover harnesses). For whatever reason, this doesn't work with BS3. I flipped them back and it fired right up...
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where did you hook the box switched power to? verify it has 12v when cranking?
next is to check if the spark plugs are wet, and stick a timing light on one of the wires to find spark
also are you letting it crank long enough? mine takes about 2 seconds to fire.
re: the ls2 cam sensor wiring. i believe the deal is if you use the short little extension on the front cover then you have to flip the sensor wiring, but if you toss that and plug it in direct (after extending) you can leave it alone.
next is to check if the spark plugs are wet, and stick a timing light on one of the wires to find spark
also are you letting it crank long enough? mine takes about 2 seconds to fire.
re: the ls2 cam sensor wiring. i believe the deal is if you use the short little extension on the front cover then you have to flip the sensor wiring, but if you toss that and plug it in direct (after extending) you can leave it alone.
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
where did you hook the box switched power to? verify it has 12v when cranking?
next is to check if the spark plugs are wet, and stick a timing light on one of the wires to find spark
also are you letting it crank long enough? mine takes about 2 seconds to fire.
re: the ls2 cam sensor wiring. i believe the deal is if you use the short little extension on the front cover then you have to flip the sensor wiring, but if you toss that and plug it in direct (after extending) you can leave it alone.
next is to check if the spark plugs are wet, and stick a timing light on one of the wires to find spark
also are you letting it crank long enough? mine takes about 2 seconds to fire.
re: the ls2 cam sensor wiring. i believe the deal is if you use the short little extension on the front cover then you have to flip the sensor wiring, but if you toss that and plug it in direct (after extending) you can leave it alone.
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From: kuwait
ok i had the same problem long time ago . check for the crank sensor harnes and check te pins on them that they ae correct . mine was filped over so i had to change them . any way if you did the BAL keys you have to have RPM signal with that it will never start ,so how you can check do the BAL keys and you can see the green ball gos around if it turns then you are ok its somthing els that you have to check but you have to have RPM signal so it can crank .hope that will help you .
I don't think it plugs in w/o the short little extension. The tangs on the connectors were slightly different...either way I left the short extension and bought a LS1-LS2 conversion extension harness (A and C were flipped as provided). I had to unflip them to get the car to start...
man all those extra plugs are dead weight!
seriously tho, i think the reason the plugs were different is because you used an extension harness (plug changes) then goes into the factory harness (plug changes back to the first type) then the sensor. something to that effect, its been like that a few years now. anyways i just extended my harness the old fashioned way and plugged it direct to the sensor.
Just turned the key for the first time on my new setup. It will crank but not fire. I have 60lb of fuel pressure at the rail. I think I got all of the initial BS3 setup done according to the instructions. Is there anything else I need to do with it since this is a turbo setup?
Last edited by 1INSANEGTO; Jul 15, 2008 at 11:31 AM.
FormerVendor
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From: Decatur IN.
Make sure the IGN wire goes to a dedicated 12v while cranking. Alot of circuits lose power while the engine is cranking, A BS3 always takes a while to light off. It needs to figure out if its on compression or exhaust stroke.
Brent
Brent
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From: East Brady, Pa
I did the BAL thing and a 2nd red ball with a dot popped up. When I'm cranking the one of the right goes right and left but the red one with the dot does nothing. It will pop up real quick that communication was lost and then come back on also. I checked and the switched 12v input to the box comes from the ign terminal at the fuse box. I didn't verify but since my fuel pump is coming on I think the box has power. I don't have an LS2 block or extension harness so that should be correct. Thanks for all the suggestions so far guys.
Last edited by theblur98ss; Jul 15, 2008 at 08:12 PM.
You may want to verify that ignition wire does indeed stay lit when cranking with a testlight. I can't remember for sure if it does out of the fusebox. I used a pink wire under the hood (IIRC) that went to the original factory PCM that is hot when cranking.
I had issues when I first fired mine, turns out it was out of gas! Didn't have any gauges, except a tach in it. You stated that you have 60 psi, so that shouldn't be the case here. Sprayed starting fluid in it, and it fired, so it was easy to pinpoint.
I know that the harness is labeled nicely, but is there a chance you mixed up the MAP with the crank sensor? They used the same plug for a couple of sensors, just something to double check, if you haven't already.
I had issues when I first fired mine, turns out it was out of gas! Didn't have any gauges, except a tach in it. You stated that you have 60 psi, so that shouldn't be the case here. Sprayed starting fluid in it, and it fired, so it was easy to pinpoint.
I know that the harness is labeled nicely, but is there a chance you mixed up the MAP with the crank sensor? They used the same plug for a couple of sensors, just something to double check, if you haven't already.
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From: East Brady, Pa
What color wires stay hot during cranking and will shut off with the ignition? I wired the box straight from the battery and it will start up.... but won't shut off with the key. Runs very rough but starts.
wire it to the pink (large) wire in the ignitioin wiring harness.. It's your ignition wire and will stay hot while cranking.. The orange is your accessory (heater, radio, etc) that shuts off while cranking... the large yellow wire is your starter wire.. Hope that helps..
