Just dyno'd with new blower
crank is 7.65 blower is 4.25
The car is way down on power than normal so even if the dyno is acting up, its painfully obvious it is lacking power. I just don't know why yet
The car is way down on power than normal so even if the dyno is acting up, its painfully obvious it is lacking power. I just don't know why yet
Just for reference, last fall this car made 423hp on a dynojet with an unlocked converter (before the 6 speed swap) and a p1sc maxed out @7psi with the ati twin intercoolers.
If it had a 6 speed then i'll bet the numbers would have been close to what my car put down now.
If it had a 6 speed then i'll bet the numbers would have been close to what my car put down now.
I havent had anything to scan or log with.
I got my hands on an interceptor scan guage that I am installing today.
I've been thinking, a few years back I was having some similar problems. I replaced the
o2's and it took care of it. Also my temp guage has been freaking out every now and then, going almost all the way up then to normal and so on and so on. I think i'll change the o2's and the temp sensor and see what happens.
I got my hands on an interceptor scan guage that I am installing today.
I've been thinking, a few years back I was having some similar problems. I replaced the
o2's and it took care of it. Also my temp guage has been freaking out every now and then, going almost all the way up then to normal and so on and so on. I think i'll change the o2's and the temp sensor and see what happens.
Update: The connections on my aftermarket fans had worked loose and were barely touching, explaining the wacky temp gauge. I also changed the o2 sensors. Took it out last night and its a night and day difference! I'll be runnin at the track on friday so well see how it does.
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washed out cylinder walls, excessive carbon build up, plugs fouling out leading to mis fires and stressing other components, fuel in oil eating at bearings, not to much to worry about for the coin invested.
Ok, I gotta ask. The ideal af ratio for FI is 11.7 right? Before the dyno I ran a buddies wideband in my y pipe for a few days. Under WOT it was as low as 11.1 and creeped up to 11.9 on the top end.
So if its .6 too rich would it really be as drastic as what has been mentioned? Personnaly I don't think it would.
I did a quick search for afr and found alot of people tuning for 11.1 anywhere to people tuning for 12.1 and nobody is lecturing them about washing out cylinder walls and eating up bearing etc?
Maybe you guys can teach me something?
So if its .6 too rich would it really be as drastic as what has been mentioned? Personnaly I don't think it would.
I did a quick search for afr and found alot of people tuning for 11.1 anywhere to people tuning for 12.1 and nobody is lecturing them about washing out cylinder walls and eating up bearing etc?
Maybe you guys can teach me something?
I'm not a tuner, I just know if your having issues with it running right and you havn't had a full dyno tune on it since the changes, it's just asking for trouble taking it to the track and beating on it. I let my tuner handle afr.
I'm going to have to agree, you need to get this car to a dyno-tuning facility and have it tuned properly. You have way to much money invested in this scenario to do something like throw caution to the wind. I don't think it's being dramatic, so much as, being smart. Mail order tunes for FI at the very most should be a band-aid to get the car running and take it to a dyno-tuning facility with a wideband O2. Remember, most of these guys giving you advice don't want to see your hard work go down the drain. I personally would like to see a bad azz FI-LT1 (your car) running on the street and taking names. 
I am just getting very frustrated with people telling me im gonna break my **** because it is running "too rich" when so many other people INTENTIONALLY tune for afr's as rich as mine. LT1's run down into the tens on the afr scale from the factory for hells sakes.
Thanks for the props man! I am going to get a real tune so please don't get me confused with somebody who is wreckless and doesn't care, because like has been said already, I have way too much invested into this car! The mail order tune was just so I could get it in the ball park and have it driveable till I do get another tune.
Thanks for the props man! I am going to get a real tune so please don't get me confused with somebody who is wreckless and doesn't care, because like has been said already, I have way too much invested into this car! The mail order tune was just so I could get it in the ball park and have it driveable till I do get another tune.
I wouldnt get angry man, just people trying to keep your investment safe. Sure it may be fine with the tune your running now but it sounds like your really down on power so I personally wouldnt run it at the track but if you feel confident enough that it should be fine then go for it. BTW whats your setup?
afr's are nice and all that, but i tend to still read the plugs-ck them out, go for it
Steve Morris, who is a master at building and tuning procharged engines, just dyno'ed (engine dyno) a friends s/b, made 1296 h/p. 22 lbs boost, and had 12.4 afr's
my first thought was thats on the lean side, the common thinking is to be in the 11,s, but this is where the engin was tuned at
i run my car a little fat, cause it likes it-now if you have black smoke rolling out the back all the time, i would be worried, lol
Steve Morris, who is a master at building and tuning procharged engines, just dyno'ed (engine dyno) a friends s/b, made 1296 h/p. 22 lbs boost, and had 12.4 afr's
my first thought was thats on the lean side, the common thinking is to be in the 11,s, but this is where the engin was tuned at
i run my car a little fat, cause it likes it-now if you have black smoke rolling out the back all the time, i would be worried, lol