TS6

iTrader: (41)

We had to use the eye on mine too.

Jake, would the TR6 be too hot for this combo?

TS6

iTrader: (41)

Have you ever experienced blow out? My GN bucked hard on the dyno, its a dead miss. Pretty obvious when it happens, and definitely showed up on my logs.

Before you go chasing problems that may not even exist, go make a clean pass at a good track (with race gas). ET's and MPH do not lie.

black98ws6ta

iTrader: (77)

I would not hesitate to gap the plugs tigher to see if it helps the ignition problem. I would also keep the colder plugs in it. 750 rwhp is not a problem on the tr6's but if the car is really making more power then the dyno is showing then a colder plug is a good idea. I also agree on taking it to the track.

Gold Phoenix

iTrader: (1)

I can definately tell when all 8 cylinders are not firing (power does feel as violent), but this day it felt pretty good. But if it is intermittent, it would still feel somewhat smooth. I am guessing at that too. I need a good prepped day to try to get some good times and MPH.

TS6

iTrader: (41)

You aren't too far from EPP, might be worth it to let them check it out. I'd hate to see you hurt such an expensive setup.

veee8

iTrader: (40)

You need to check out a different dyno. Reading with mph not rpm will give you inaccurate readings. Been there done that. The mph is time based, and as stated high hp sometimes results in tire slip on the rollers.

Jake@EPP

We run the tr6's, BUT we run 118octane all the time. If your on pump fuel all it takes is one little rattle and the game is over.

For the hell of it, you might consider leaking the motor down since its down on power.

Gold Phoenix

iTrader: (1)

I would except for a few reason. One, I leave for Germany in about a week and won't be back for about a year. So, it will have to be put on hold. Second, I don't have the time or finances at the moment to make a venture to the Ft. Wayne area from Indy with me getting ready to leave. Third, when I do return from Germany I am tearing the motor down to check on things and replace a used crank with a new one with better bearings (another story) along with putting in a cage, auto tranny, FAB9 and so on. But I do appreicate all the inputs I am getting so far. Hell, within a few hours this thread is up to 2 pages.

Gold Phoenix

iTrader: (1)

You might be right about that too. I had the 28x11.5-15 ET Street on the dyno with like 22psi of tire pressure. I am loading a video of the dyno run on my MySpace account, I'll post it here as soon as it is up.

Gold Phoenix

iTrader: (1)

I know I can get good power on 93 pump gas because I have seen plenty of other do it. I keep a good eye on my fuel pressure on these runs and saw no drops. Honestly on the street, it runs like a raped ape. I could very well be overpowering everything.

Jake@EPP

It doesnt matter if fuel pressure drops or not, there are limits to any fuel, bad or good. Only way to find out is to rattle it and back it off a tad. With pump fuel and FI you are near the ragged edge for what i consider safe, close to 20deg timing and 19psi on a big blower. Anything is possible when playing with fire. Im not sure why people want to push the limits of pump fuel just for a number, 110 octane is cheaper then new pistons and machine work.

Gold Phoenix

iTrader: (1)

Point taken. But also, my plugs haven't shown me any signs of damage, just blacken sometime when I set the tune on the rich side.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=29

Check out the build above. LS2 402 with AFR 225 heads. F-1A at 14.4 psi on 93 octane with air to air intercooler. TR6 4177 plugs.



Now I would agree that your power level is down, especially for a non eddy current dyno. I'd take it Muncie Wednesday and see what the mph is, maybe it is making more power than the dyno was showing. Bob

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

I think you are miss interpreting. We are basically saying the same thing. All I am saying is that the smaller engines make more boost (same as what you just stated). And that to achieve more boost for the OP's car, he could have done that easier with smaller cubes. Obviously more cubes itself will produce more power. But smaller cubes with more boost can make the same if not greater power. I have heard similar guys with large cubed engines complain about not seeing the boost/power level they were thinking they would get originally.

TS6

iTrader: (41)

No, you're still wrong. Smaller engines don't "make" more boost, they CAUSE more boost. The OP doesn't need more boost, he's making plenty now. His power is not proportionate with his boost/c.i./timing though.

I think what you don't understand is that the smaller engines you see making big power on high boost REQUIRE that higher boost to make the power due to the lack of c.i..

Let me make it easier, here's an example: Lets say our blower setup flows 2000 cfm at max rpm. Now lets say our engine will only flow 1500 cfm at max rpm. We have more air than we can flow, so it backs up in the intake and creates pressure, which forces air into the engine. Now lets say we use the same blower combo on a motor that is 50 c.i. larger. Lets say it flows 1800 cfm at peak rpm. Obviously, we will see less boost on the gauge but we are still flowing basically the same amount of air. In this case the blower isn't working as hard because the air isn't being compressed as much, and is therefor running cooler. Cooler is always better. We might make a few more HP because of the cooler air and better flowing engine, but where the real advantage is is that we can pulley our blower to flow more air and this bigger motor will handle it.

This why EVERY racing body places limits on engine displacement and blower/turbo size.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

You guys might recall I briefly ran a custom YSi A/A several years ago. Dynoed 754rwhp at 21.5 psi. Dynoed 680rwhp went 9.40@143mph with belt slip in the last half of the pass.

I'd just go make a MPH blast at the track and see what it does.

I agree with Jake big time, I'd run 110 mixed or something, you are taking a chance. I've been running TR8's in my car and in the old nitrous Camaro, and they never foul out. I am running truck coils, MSD truck wires in the Formula but I hear you can increase the dwell time of stock coils with HPT so you should be able to get by.

Heck like Jake said, at full weight you should be able to bang out 140mph with a 6 speed and 750rwhp dynojet try it.

Gold Phoenix

iTrader: (1)

I think the reason my plugs fouled out was because my part throttle tune was too rich which I have been working out. I have tried running for MPH at the track. The days I went on before they didn't prep the track very well. I would take off from the line like I was in traffic. As soon as I felt that the car was hooking, I rolled my foot into the throttle. At about 3000rpm with 5psi of boost, the tire would break free and spin wildly to the rev limiter. So I put it in 2nd and roll again, still felt some spinning, even alittle in third. I have the tires, I need a good track day.

Also, I have noticed on the TT Vette on EPPs site that on the dyno they had two guys in the trunk to help put more weight on the rear wheels where I did not. So I am thinking the tires might have been slipping on the dyno.

Gold Phoenix

iTrader: (1)

Here is the video of the dyno pull.

http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fusea...deoid=39368170

VENGEANCE

LOL OMG WTF I NEED A DRINK.

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Well let me throw my .02 in here. I don't think you are any where near maxing out the F1R. Seen them dyno over 1k at the wheels. I would look at your piping and BOV. Also what pulley sizes are you running on the blower and the crank? Check for belt slip and the dyno should show that if you log the boost. The cam probably isn't the best, but I would have expected more. It really depends on what you want to do with the car. Dyno great or have fun and go fast cause that you will still do. GL.
Jeff