With all these great time, please post them in the sticky above "Turbo List"

David

 

I'll throw my crappy results in. 500/521 at the wheels, best so far of 12.28@125 on a VERY soft 2.10 short time. I just haven't figured out how to launch the Vette hard yet like I can launch my Trans Am hard. The Vette has MUCH better times and probably a couple few more mph in it, especially if I can keep it from bogging off the line without lighting them up on the flip side.

 

well this make me feel better i was upset with my time but it seem to be right

 

Man as bad as I want a D1, most of the times I am seeing are not very inspiring. I have been searching other websites as well and it seems that if basically stock motored camaros or TAs are supercharged making 500rwhp, they are doing very well apparently to touch 11s, much less mid to low 11s. Kind of discouraging because I would love to have the 500+hp all the time but I would also like to run low 11s to high 10s on a stock bottom end at full weight. Doesn't look like the blower is gonna give me that.....if I pulley the crap out of it for more power to do it, then I am sitting on a time bomb.


Damn I want that EPP kit though..I know it would be a blast off the strip.

 

There are a lot of factors to consider when you are looking at times. I have a D1 on my WS6 and it put 475 (with the rev limiter at 5800 for being conservative) on a Mustang dyno. I am dying to take it to the track, but without the supporting mods, I know I will be disappointed. I have seen these stock Procharged cars running anything from about 10.8 to 12.8 on a stock motor, factory weight car.

I am waiting to take mine to the track until I get a 9", traction, and sticky tires. I want to be happy with the passes I get and I know that won't happen on a street tire. I want to be able to go out and dump it from an RPM where I am making good power and hope it pulls hard the entire way through. I think if you do some looking, if your car is properly setup, you can be in the high 10's. Just don't be disappointed if you are cutting 2.0 60' times and running high 11's or low 10's. I think this all goes back to the 'sticky' thread about how much does forced induction really cost. It is the same thing with making power and how fast you really go.

Step one for me, my stock clutch finally gave out last night and the Spec 3+ should finally be going in sometime soon.

 

look at the number of people with h/c running bad times. no matter how you make power, there will always be the people running crazy fast times, several running decent times and others that arent up to par. there are a variety of reasons for this. with f/i, there are alot more variables and car to car variations. its the nature of the beast. also, as power levels increase, it gets harder to hook. so some throw on slicks and launch the hell out of it and get good times. others dont want to chance there weak rearend with a pair of sticky tires so they run street tires and have to baby it out of the hole which kills the e.t.

if you want a blower, call up bob and get one. you can quit filling up your bottles and have the power all the time. just because someone is running an unimpressive time, doesnt mean you will. and even the poor f/i times are really pretty dam good in the grand scheme of things.

 

Think of it this way:
rwhp = mph
60' = ETs

Turbo & blower cars have that big mph top end because of the rwhp they make. Getting a 6 speed turbo car to get a good 60' is a challenge. Thats the reason the ET sucks but the mph is awesome.

a turbo'd 550rwhp car running 12.5@130 is going to pull alot harder than a 400rwhp cammed car running 11.8@115, although at the track the 400rwhp car could beat the 550rwhp car.

 

I went 10.97 @ 125 full weight on 17 in drag radials with the heavy 18" wheels on the front.

526 rhwp A4 3.23 gears 1.6 60'

 

Yeah I agree.....but I also see guys posting trap speeds that are not near what they should be for the the rwhp and weight they are carrying. I think its more about area under the curve that someone else previously posted on this thread. Matter in fact, I just looked at my old dyno chart and I am making 530lbs tq at 3500rpms on the spray..... I guess thats gonna be pretty hard to make up....LOL The blower might match its power up top, but the tq won't be there, especially under 5500rpms or so...

I will probably still get the blower though....eventhough it won't be as quick or trap as high, I will have that power all the time and since I only hit the strip a few times a year, I think I will enjoy the blower more..

Still stalking this thread though for more ETs and MPHs from Procharged M6 cars....

 

trust me man if you go with a blower you will be happy a blower just plain "feels" different and one thing you should know is that im running 11.70 but that with a 2.37 gear i think that when i get a 3.42 or 3.73s im sure it will be faster, but track times are not the main thing i want with my car

 

Post up the "Turbo List" sticky and I can move you up a couple places.

David

 

I'm hoping to install my D1SC kit, my GTP S2 LQ9 heads, Vig.3200 and a GT2-3 cam
in the future. And since i have a A4 and a higher stall converter that flashes where
the D1SC starts to make it's strong power. A4's with a stall shows better 60's times
which translates into lower E.T.'s. With the above mods plus headers/catback
i'm shooting for 500rwhp-525whp. With good traction i should be able to hit low 11's or maybe even high 10's

 

C5 Coupe 470RWHP 450RWTQ 11.60 at 124.5 2.1 60ft with bad belt slip and this was before the stall

 

Just a couple of tips that can make a car ET better. With my own full street trim (just drove off the highway, swapped to E/T Streets) using factory salad shooters all around, 3650 raceweight, full interior, fully optioned 96 Z28 coupe, I cut consistent 1.6x sixty foots and ran 11.1 at 121mph using a 100 shot. The tranny was an automatic with 2800 stall, the rear gears were factory 10 bolt 3.42's.

Tip #1 unbolt one or both sides of the front sway bar. This allows the front end to rise much more quickly and aids tremendously in weight transfer to the rear, planting the tires.

Tip #2 Inflate the front tires to the full setting they're spec'd for so as to decrease rolling resistance.

Tip #3 If you're an automatic, play around with your 'Leave' RPM's. Some guys find their best 60 foots with loading the Torque Converter to 1,000 or 1,050 RPM while foot braking. On my car, I tried that and it didn't work worth a damn. Mine had the very best sixties and ET's when I left at idle. Stomping on the gas pedal as the last yellow light fully illuminated. This technique (for me) allowed the car start loading the tires before too much torque was introduced and by the time the torque came on, the tires hooked. Your experience may differ but I would try experimenting with it.

Tip #4 If you race with a 1/4 or less tank of gas to make the car lighter but you find you just spin, at least try one race day with a full tank of gas. I think gasoline weighs about 7 lbs per gallon so that would be some good ballast to help push the tires down.

 

good info right there

 

WOW!!!!!!

 

I went a 16.3 with a seized turbo

But before that unfortunate event I did manage a 11.6@127 on street tires and a shitty 1.9 60ft at 8psi with a puss tune in it.

Should be alot better with with my new tc 76 thats coming and a real tune.

 

I have EPP's kit in my DD and I can tell you its worth it. I get comments on it almost daily. The one thing that I can say about having bad et's is that for me at least having the stock 10 bolt and not putting slicks on is what is hurting me. A guy that i met at a car show recently had almost the same setup as me and dynoed pretty close to what I put down had his car in 10.9-8 range consistently just because he had a 9inch and some slicks.

I think the next power upgrade for me is not going to be power at all. Its going to be a nice rearend so that it is not a 10 second dyno queen.....LOL

 

Alot of good info