F-body Procharger users......overheating in traffic?
08-11-2008, 09:58 PM
#23
In all honesty, if I had put the setup on the car (I bought it built basically) I would have gone w/Vortech for this sole reason. I think the only other thing I can do is replace the ATI fan (I have both the ATI fan and a 9" Spal) with a 16" Spal like mentioned and see if that helps, if not, I'll just have to live with it.
As a disclaimer, mine has never overheated, just ran in the upper 230's w/the a/c on if it sits idle for a few minutes in 90* weather, I haven't go to to drive in the 10X* weather yet since I don't have the car back from tuning. But like ajrothm said, adding the 9" Spal helped, but the real difference for me was the 2 core radiator.
I agree, is there another kit that removes the 2 stock fans though? Not trying to come off as rude, I just don't know.
As a disclaimer, mine has never overheated, just ran in the upper 230's w/the a/c on if it sits idle for a few minutes in 90* weather, I haven't go to to drive in the 10X* weather yet since I don't have the car back from tuning. But like ajrothm said, adding the 9" Spal helped, but the real difference for me was the 2 core radiator.
I agree, is there another kit that removes the 2 stock fans though? Not trying to come off as rude, I just don't know.
08-11-2008, 10:49 PM
#24
Also a lot of it depends on where you live, at lower elevation the denser air not only makes more power but caries heat away better through the radiator. If you up there in elevation even the stock fans on these are marginal. Also have to remember these cars are made to run fairly hot, they dont have the cooling capacity stock to drive around at 180 degrees on a 100 degree day with the a/c on.
08-12-2008, 05:01 AM
#28
I keep these 9 inch fans in stock. http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=729
Here is one car we installed it one.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com/hotCars.php?car=62 Bob
Here is one car we installed it one.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com/hotCars.php?car=62 Bob
08-12-2008, 07:01 AM
#29
I'm assuming the reason that prochargers cause temp issues is because they have a little more parasitic drag over other supercharger due to their ratios, this is why they make more power, anyway I had a D1 on my LT1, had overheating issues also in the summer with the ac on. I still have the stock fans, stock shrouds, all I did was install a pusher fan in front of the condenser, just basically wedged it in there and wired it up to the stock fans, After that, I could sit in traffic with over 100 degree weather, AC on and the temps never went over around 190
08-12-2008, 07:09 AM
#30
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
In all honesty, if I had put the setup on the car (I bought it built basically) I would have gone w/Vortech for this sole reason. I think the only other thing I can do is replace the ATI fan (I have both the ATI fan and a 9" Spal) with a 16" Spal like mentioned and see if that helps, if not, I'll just have to live with it.
As a disclaimer, mine has never overheated, just ran in the upper 230's w/the a/c on if it sits idle for a few minutes in 90* weather, I haven't go to to drive in the 10X* weather yet since I don't have the car back from tuning. But like ajrothm said, adding the 9" Spal helped, but the real difference for me was the 2 core radiator.
I agree, is there another kit that removes the 2 stock fans though? Not trying to come off as rude, I just don't know.
As a disclaimer, mine has never overheated, just ran in the upper 230's w/the a/c on if it sits idle for a few minutes in 90* weather, I haven't go to to drive in the 10X* weather yet since I don't have the car back from tuning. But like ajrothm said, adding the 9" Spal helped, but the real difference for me was the 2 core radiator.
I agree, is there another kit that removes the 2 stock fans though? Not trying to come off as rude, I just don't know.
So yours is still getting hot with both fans on? Down here in Houston, we AVERAGE about 95* and high humidity about 6 months out of the year....LOL Summer is in the upper 90s and occassionaly breaks 100*. Not running the AC is not an option.(if I was building a POS 79' camaro budget race car or something it would be different). I am gonna keep digging into this deeper and see what I can find but in all honesty, spending $8k for a kit and install is pretty steep, then having to dump another $1K+ in the cooling system that still might not keep up isn't very cost effective for me. For that kind of money, I could build a 550rwhp 408" or 414" or something and not have heating issues or be driving around on a time bomb....(stock bottom end at 550hp+)..... Decisions decisions....
08-12-2008, 10:45 PM
#31
I have similar goals with mine, about 600-650RWHP. It is a 403 with a D1 and stock 4.5" coolers with a meth kit. Looking to be around 10-12psi. Anything over and the boost relief valve and air filter are not adequate.
On the racetrack the set-ups are great for these cars, but for a real street peeler there seems to be alot of issues.
I added the 9" Spal fan, but I am leary based on what I have read on the site about the 'real' streetability in the heat of the set-up. One of my main caveats of this build was to keep A/C.
I tend to agree the stock ATI F-body set-up is a pricey investment for the cooling, air intake and tensioner problems they are known for. Glad I bought most all my stuff used
I also contemplated the high comp 403 route with a N20 kit, driveability may have been better, I don't know yet. All depends on what kind of cam and converter set up you would have to go with to meet your goals.
I figure the D1/403 set-up will get easy mid 10's at full weight, the same or better can be easily done with the right 403 LS2 and a small N20 shot. Just depends what you want.
Should be running real shortly/
On the racetrack the set-ups are great for these cars, but for a real street peeler there seems to be alot of issues.
I added the 9" Spal fan, but I am leary based on what I have read on the site about the 'real' streetability in the heat of the set-up. One of my main caveats of this build was to keep A/C.
I tend to agree the stock ATI F-body set-up is a pricey investment for the cooling, air intake and tensioner problems they are known for. Glad I bought most all my stuff used
I also contemplated the high comp 403 route with a N20 kit, driveability may have been better, I don't know yet. All depends on what kind of cam and converter set up you would have to go with to meet your goals.
I figure the D1/403 set-up will get easy mid 10's at full weight, the same or better can be easily done with the right 403 LS2 and a small N20 shot. Just depends what you want.
Should be running real shortly/
08-12-2008, 11:59 PM
#33
So yours is still getting hot with both fans on? Down here in Houston, we AVERAGE about 95* and high humidity about 6 months out of the year....LOL Summer is in the upper 90s and occassionaly breaks 100*. Not running the AC is not an option.(if I was building a POS 79' camaro budget race car or something it would be different). I am gonna keep digging into this deeper and see what I can find but in all honesty, spending $8k for a kit and install is pretty steep, then having to dump another $1K+ in the cooling system that still might not keep up isn't very cost effective for me. For that kind of money, I could build a 550rwhp 408" or 414" or something and not have heating issues or be driving around on a time bomb....(stock bottom end at 550hp+)..... Decisions decisions....
08-13-2008, 07:09 AM
#34
Looks like a double pass radiator would be the ticket for forced induction cars,blowers or turbos.If the info on these double pass rad. is true wouldn't they be a better selection?You hardly ever see anyone using one except for the occasional high dollar ron davis setup.There are some very reasonably priced double pass rad.in jegs and summit and also on ebay,why don't more people use them?Most people use the basic griffen 27.5x15.5 but it only rated at 400 h.p.Double pass rad.have both inlet and outlet on the pass. side which would actually work out better on ls motors.
08-13-2008, 09:08 AM
#35
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Yeah I am still looking at all the options. With the kit from EPP, it comes with the SDCE, 8 rib, and all the other goodies you need to improve the shortcomings of the base ATI kit.... BUT the cooling issue is definetly a major concern. Like I said, I don't drive it daily, but do drive it often and I am constantly in traffic. I don't want to be worrying about sitting at a traffic jam and watching the temp gauge climb, hoping it plateaus at a certain temp etc.... Right now, I can literally idle all day long with the AC on and never worry about it going over 210-215*. I want this car to stay reliable as stock.
As Helicoil mentioned, I could simply add a head/intake combo on top of my cam only/NX150 setup and probably touch high 10s and still have it be reliable as stock. Much cheaper and much more simple. Only thing that sucks is the bottles run out and they ain't cheap to fill.
Still kicking everything around...
As Helicoil mentioned, I could simply add a head/intake combo on top of my cam only/NX150 setup and probably touch high 10s and still have it be reliable as stock. Much cheaper and much more simple. Only thing that sucks is the bottles run out and they ain't cheap to fill.
Still kicking everything around...
BOSS APPROVED!
08-13-2008, 06:13 PM
#37
Looks like a double pass radiator would be the ticket for forced induction cars,blowers or turbos.If the info on these double pass rad. is true wouldn't they be a better selection?You hardly ever see anyone using one except for the occasional high dollar ron davis setup.There are some very reasonably priced double pass rad.in jegs and summit and also on ebay,why don't more people use them?Most people use the basic griffen 27.5x15.5 but it only rated at 400 h.p.Double pass rad.have both inlet and outlet on the pass. side which would actually work out better on ls motors.
08-13-2008, 06:55 PM
#38
Correct, our kit does not use the SDCE bracket. The ATI ProCharger D-1SC kit with the eight rib belt works just fine without the SDCE design at 8 to 10 psi. The SDCE design works great and has proven itself for many applications. For those with an f body and are planning on cranking the boost up to 14 psi and beyond the SDCE design works very well. As far as I know, you still have to send them your ProCharger bracket to have it modified. Bob
08-13-2008, 08:34 PM
#39
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
08-13-2008, 09:38 PM
#40
SDCE set-up + 695.00, then 35.00 for their tool to adjust and R&R the belt. And don't forget shipping both ways
Yep, you would need the stock ATI bracket or the steel replica.
With keeping everything stock on the car with the Procharger set-up in their it gets very tight.
Out of everything I experienced with the install, the air filter or lack there of is most discouraging. The D1 has lots of potential but it is choked by the air filter limitations, then the intercoolers, and then the belt. What do you expect from a kit that was designed around a P1SC?
In the end I hope the D1 torque puts a smile on my face.
Yep, you would need the stock ATI bracket or the steel replica.
With keeping everything stock on the car with the Procharger set-up in their it gets very tight.
Out of everything I experienced with the install, the air filter or lack there of is most discouraging. The D1 has lots of potential but it is choked by the air filter limitations, then the intercoolers, and then the belt. What do you expect from a kit that was designed around a P1SC?
In the end I hope the D1 torque puts a smile on my face.