FI LSX block machining costs?
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 45,329
Likes: 1,767
From: Chicago, IL
FI LSX block machining costs? How much have you guys paid to machine an LSX block for FI? Just looking for general numbers, so I can compare to a fully machined ERL block.
Here is what my recent invoice looked like for my twin FI-66 build:
Bore and hone up to .120 over --- 325
Deck --- 150
Line hone main bores --- 125
fix back plug on LSX and countersink cam plate holes --- 75
Obviously most of the costs are similar to any other block prep (bore/hone/line hone/deck), but my block was an "old style" LSX block that required a little extra work to get setup. I believe the newer version addresses a couple of these issues. Also as Shawn points out below, my build did not use bushed lifter bores, orings, etc. Just a basic 6 bolt setup with standard studs.
Bore and hone up to .120 over --- 325
Deck --- 150
Line hone main bores --- 125
fix back plug on LSX and countersink cam plate holes --- 75
Obviously most of the costs are similar to any other block prep (bore/hone/line hone/deck), but my block was an "old style" LSX block that required a little extra work to get setup. I believe the newer version addresses a couple of these issues. Also as Shawn points out below, my build did not use bushed lifter bores, orings, etc. Just a basic 6 bolt setup with standard studs.
Last edited by Classic; Aug 15, 2008 at 11:05 AM.
I paid $1000 for all my stuff @ the machine shop:
Bore/hone to our specs.
O-ring
Line hone
Install Cam bearings
Deck the block
Hot tank
Drill and tap for 1/2" && 3/8" head studs
Plugs for the oil galley
Balancing rotating assembly
Milling 5cc's off the pistons
Checking the clearances
Bore/hone to our specs.
O-ring
Line hone
Install Cam bearings
Deck the block
Hot tank
Drill and tap for 1/2" && 3/8" head studs
Plugs for the oil galley
Balancing rotating assembly
Milling 5cc's off the pistons
Checking the clearances
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 45,329
Likes: 1,767
From: Chicago, IL
Thanks Classic, Phil.
I think the ERL block was $4500 I forget if that included the block charge if you didn't supply it. I'll call them again and ask.
I think the ERL block was $4500 I forget if that included the block charge if you didn't supply it. I'll call them again and ask.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 45,329
Likes: 1,767
From: Chicago, IL
I don't think the $4500 included a block charge, so the LSX block + $1000 for machining is $3000 vs. $4500 or more for the ERL, but you save 80 lbs. Hmmm.
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The ERL is a nice piece for sure, all depends how much that 80lbs means to you. Once you get to a certain point with a car and need to get lighter in the front 100lbs is easily worth a couple thousand dollars.
But with the LSx block if you dont bore it out to max there is a few rebuilds there, even if you gouge it up, not sure how far you can go on an ERL or if you can easily replace the sleeves if one gets torn up.. Not to mention the priority main oiling for the LSx is a plus..
But with the LSx block if you dont bore it out to max there is a few rebuilds there, even if you gouge it up, not sure how far you can go on an ERL or if you can easily replace the sleeves if one gets torn up.. Not to mention the priority main oiling for the LSx is a plus..
Actually the difference is more like 150 lbs.
Ive weighed an LS2 block vs a 6.0L iron block and there is almost a full 100lbs on my digital scale. The LSx block is ?50-60lbs? more than the 6.0L iron block.
Ive weighed an LS2 block vs a 6.0L iron block and there is almost a full 100lbs on my digital scale. The LSx block is ?50-60lbs? more than the 6.0L iron block.
My ls2 block weighed in at 87 lbs. I've seen the LQ4 blocks are usually right at 180 lbs. If the LSX is 225, that's an easy 140 lbs or so...how much is that worth to you? I think it's definitely worth it, but I'm so greedy with weight I wouldn't know where to begin.
My ls2 block weighed in at 87 lbs. I've seen the LQ4 blocks are usually right at 180 lbs. If the LSX is 225, that's an easy 140 lbs or so...how much is that worth to you? I think it's definitely worth it, but I'm so greedy with weight I wouldn't know where to begin.
Last edited by kp; Aug 16, 2008 at 05:58 PM.
some things that alot of people dont consider-the alum block no matter how much it is beefed up will never be as strong as the iron block,you loose ring seal due to cyl bore distortion-meaning you are loosing hp,the other thing is deck distortion,sometimes the lost hp isnt worth the weight trade off,thats why they still run iron blocks in pro stock and nascar
some things that alot of people dont consider-the alum block no matter how much it is beefed up will never be as strong as the iron block,you loose ring seal due to cyl bore distortion-meaning you are loosing hp,the other thing is deck distortion,sometimes the lost hp isnt worth the weight trade off,thats why they still run iron blocks in pro stock and nascar
we have done back to back tests on iron vs alum bbc blocks,on identical 540cid bbc in the 800hp range the alum block was down 30hp and the blowby was greater.seeing how the ls block is lighter and significantly weaker than the big block+adding 20-30 lbs of boost i would think that there would be 100+ hp difference between the 2 at 1500+hp.This could be a major factor in a class that was limited by cid restrictions or turbo size restrictions.those same classes usually have to run pretty heavy so it may not be and advantage to have a lighter block.I'm not saying not to run an alum block-just trying to give all the info so somebody can make a completely informed decision for themselves-not only that,i have an alum block in my own car.
With the well known aftermarket sleeves (darton etc.) cylinder distortion isn't an issue. Not sure how their strength compares to the LSX but I would guess they're just as strong or stronger. Definately stronger than an OEM iron block.
your guess would be wrong-i have actual test data from this-not a guess