cogs....
#41
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#42
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I have no reason to go with a cog setup really, F1C F1R maybe but this SDCE is working just fine for the F1A and down.
Same belt for over a year now, I dont replace them because I need to, I replace them because I feel guilty about leaving one on so long.
A properly set up cog works great though, I have never had one on a street car (except for a 8-71 blower) so I'm not sure how well they are suited for street use. At this point if I wanted an F2+ I would whip out the sawzall and hang a gear drive unit on the car - problem 100% solved.
Or just use a turbo![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
Same belt for over a year now, I dont replace them because I need to, I replace them because I feel guilty about leaving one on so long.
A properly set up cog works great though, I have never had one on a street car (except for a 8-71 blower) so I'm not sure how well they are suited for street use. At this point if I wanted an F2+ I would whip out the sawzall and hang a gear drive unit on the car - problem 100% solved.
Or just use a turbo
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
Thanks for chiming in Kev, always a wealth of knowledge and I like to use your car as the leading example on how great the SDCE set up works.
J
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#52
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My new car runs a cog setup with a powergrip GT2 belt. It uses a YSi and the blower mount is very solid, and i have close to 2k miles on this belt so far and it shows no signs of wear yet. I think the biggest thing is adequate bypass. I plan on adding a second small BOV for high rpm decel just for extra insurance. Also i tried a couple different methods and ended up not running it very tight. i put a wrench on each side of the idler to tighted and simply push with a bit of body weight and tighten simultaneously, so i dont think there is much for side load on the crank.
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My new car runs a cog setup with a powergrip GT2 belt. It uses a YSi and the blower mount is very solid, and i have close to 2k miles on this belt so far and it shows no signs of wear yet. I think the biggest thing is adequate bypass. I plan on adding a second small BOV for high rpm decel just for extra insurance. Also i tried a couple different methods and ended up not running it very tight. i put a wrench on each side of the idler to tighted and simply push with a bit of body weight and tighten simultaneously, so i dont think there is much for side load on the crank.
I believe gates has a PDF on the power grip for tension based on pulley size and rpm.
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We only have a very small sneak peek photo. We're starting to fabricate the standoffs and get the blower into location. We have the manual tensioner block on the lathe to make it out of steel.
![](http://www.ttperformance.net/kerminator/1.jpg)
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74,100 @ 6700rpm is just about right. The results before the belt broke look promising, only time will tell. So far were +4psi in the middle of the pull, lets see what this baby blower will do for us!
If that wont put us in the 8s, then slapping the gear drive and f3r from the GTO project better!! lol.
If that wont put us in the 8s, then slapping the gear drive and f3r from the GTO project better!! lol.
#59
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Sorry Jake...I was directing that at Grr, with his YSi.
The Aussie guys wont tell me how hard they are spinning theirs ffs !!!!
Well, one did ages ago, and he told me 50k. So either he was deliberately lying, or else he got his internal gears mixed up ! But given how fast they run....I think its the former.
The Aussie guys wont tell me how hard they are spinning theirs ffs !!!!
Well, one did ages ago, and he told me 50k. So either he was deliberately lying, or else he got his internal gears mixed up ! But given how fast they run....I think its the former.