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Old 09-19-2008, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
My blower is out approx one inch further than when it was stock. We went to a narrower radiator and we're going to run the inlet out in front of the radiator to a large air filter. Bob

Wow, 1 inch is all? I would've thought more but thats not bad at all.

Are you guys worried about flexing that bracket too much? Is there still only the three bolts holding the bracket to the car like the D1 kit?
Old 09-19-2008, 11:39 AM
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i was thinking thw same thing
Old 09-19-2008, 06:32 PM
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We have a brace on it, I'll post a pick up of it. Bob
Old 09-19-2008, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by No Juice
Wow, 1 inch is all? I would've thought more but thats not bad at all.

Are you guys worried about flexing that bracket too much? Is there still only the three bolts holding the bracket to the car like the D1 kit?
We had a small brace similar to the one that comes with the SDCE, that thing still flexed like hell! Then we added a brace made of chromoly tube and 1/4 steel (alot less movement).

We had to revise it for the wider belt so were doing good so far, we picked up 50 hp with 3psi of boost (16~ hp / psi)

However, we were making more hp per psi before the extra boost so only the track will tell how much this picked us up.

Before (780rwhp @ 16psi) 48.75hp/psi
After (830rwhp @ 19psi) 43.68hp/psi

The extra load from the blower might be the culprit, both tune-ups remained the same.

We plan to shake it down again this later week, pray for good air and a decent track and we might end up with 8s lol.
Old 09-24-2008, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickys S/C Z28
post up the dyno sheet please bob


Here you go. With just warm temperature water in the air to water intercooler, and 17 degrees of timing, we got 834 rwhp. Not bad for an automatic with a high stall converter on slicks! Bob
Old 09-24-2008, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus


Here you go. With just warm temperature water in the air to water intercooler, and 17 degrees of timing, we got 834 rwhp. Not bad for an automatic with a high stall converter on slicks! Bob
I'm surprised how it doesn't continue to make more power after 6000rpm, seems like it starts to drop. Plus with the blower spinning faster it seems like it drops in psi? Maybe I'm not reading that graph right but it seems odd. It also looks like it's almost instantanious boost and then holds steady, then goes down after 6000rpms. Pretty cool to see, just not how I expected the boost to look.
Old 09-24-2008, 12:08 PM
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thanks bob it looks like im going to need to save up some money
Old 09-25-2008, 04:19 AM
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Originally Posted by rufretic
I'm surprised how it doesn't continue to make more power after 6000rpm, seems like it starts to drop. Plus with the blower spinning faster it seems like it drops in psi? Maybe I'm not reading that graph right but it seems odd. It also looks like it's almost instantanious boost and then holds steady, then goes down after 6000rpms. Pretty cool to see, just not how I expected the boost to look.
I'd say it is because the cog belt gets it up to max boost so much faster, since there is no mid range belt slippage. Once it is up to max boost the iat's will start to build and the power will level off, then it will start dropping.

We ran the car last night locally at Muncie Dragway. We had reinstalled the M/T 325/50R15 drag radials that we had on the car last year, had the suspension set up the way we've been running it this year at this track. On the first and only pass it drug the rear bumper again, Ted let out of it several times and it kept coming back up. We had not been having that happen on the slicks.
It didn't hurt anything suspension wise this time, plus we have Madman's "save your ***" bars on it now. It barely touched the bars, Ted let it down softly each time. Once he was able to get back into it it still ran 148 mph through the traps, so it looks like the power is there. Somehow the cog belt was totally torn up and it took out the front seal in the blower. We had to pack it up and come home... Bob
Old 09-25-2008, 06:49 AM
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Somehow the cog belt was totally torn up and it took out the front seal in the blower. We had to pack it up and come home... Bob[/QUOTE]

Damn blower belts should have put a turbo on there and wouldnt have that problem.But then u could be having the problems that my car had last night.LOL. U will get the belt issue figured out i am sure.
Old 09-25-2008, 08:14 AM
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wow man thats crazy
Old 09-25-2008, 11:53 AM
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Any idea what caused the belt failure ?
Old 09-25-2008, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
I'd say it is because the cog belt gets it up to max boost so much faster, since there is no mid range belt slippage. Once it is up to max boost the iat's will start to build and the power will level off, then it will start dropping.

We ran the car last night locally at Muncie Dragway. We had reinstalled the M/T 325/50R15 drag radials that we had on the car last year, had the suspension set up the way we've been running it this year at this track. On the first and only pass it drug the rear bumper again, Ted let out of it several times and it kept coming back up. We had not been having that happen on the slicks.
It didn't hurt anything suspension wise this time, plus we have Madman's "save your ***" bars on it now. It barely touched the bars, Ted let it down softly each time. Once he was able to get back into it it still ran 148 mph through the traps, so it looks like the power is there. Somehow the cog belt was totally torn up and it took out the front seal in the blower. We had to pack it up and come home... Bob
Sounds like fun other than the blower seal. Now it's time for you to find a stronger belt, put on some wheelie bars and let it rip.
Old 09-25-2008, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Any idea what caused the belt failure ?
We're thinking we still have some bracket flex. It never had a problem on the dyno, but we're going to put a bottom brace on it, and see what happens. Bob
Old 09-25-2008, 02:00 PM
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So flex, leading to walk from bad alignment ?


Curious as to why the cogged setups, dont seem to have sidewalls to prevent walk ?
Old 09-25-2008, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rufretic
Sounds like fun other than the blower seal. Now it's time for you to find a stronger belt, put on some wheelie bars and let it rip.
lol, it already has a wide belt on it, we just need to get the flex out of it. Bob
Old 09-25-2008, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by stevieturbo
So flex, leading to walk from bad alignment ?


Curious as to why the cogged setups, dont seem to have sidewalls to prevent walk ?
No doubt, we had to have the idler pulley machined for a wider sidewall. Bob
Old 09-25-2008, 02:55 PM
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Why not run the cog pulleys with sidewalls too then ?
Old 09-25-2008, 02:57 PM
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still will flex, it will just chew up the side of the belt then wouldnt it? Thats what mine did when it was flexing, i have sides on it.
Gary
Old 09-25-2008, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rufretic
I'm surprised how it doesn't continue to make more power after 6000rpm, seems like it starts to drop. Plus with the blower spinning faster it seems like it drops in psi? Maybe I'm not reading that graph right but it seems odd. It also looks like it's almost instantanious boost and then holds steady, then goes down after 6000rpms. Pretty cool to see, just not how I expected the boost to look.
It's tough to dyno high HP cars. Once the boost comes in, so does the converter and that's about the point where you loose traction. No traction equals no load which equals no boost. Hence, this thing makes much more power than it shows on the dyno.

Bob, need to get the dyno configured to show inlet air temps on the graph. As you mentioned above, be interesting to see the relationship between the two on the power curve chart. I know it shows on your BS3 download, just need an extra sensor to go to the dyno computer.
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Old 09-25-2008, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by silver95

Bob, need to get the dyno configured to show inlet air temps on the graph. As you mentioned above, be interesting to see the relationship between the two on the power curve chart. I know it shows on your BS3 download, just need an extra sensor to go to the dyno computer.
Out of sensor inputs, another 8inputs runs about $3k lol.


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