WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

No, I'm still researching a reliable source for my map source, so far the only choice I have is the brake booster line.

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Did this yesterday, still have to finish wiring in the senders, sorry for the blurry pics. If you cant tell they are AFR,Boost,& Fuel pressure.
It will be nice to be able to log fuel pressure now.

vandal0-0

iTrader: (3)

The build looks awsome.You have some sick fabbing skills,I see It didn't take long to learn how to weld aluminum.

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Thanks man, it was a forced learning curve.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I bought a 2 bar map that goes in the same spot as the original. Who makes those gauges? Also, how are you going to log fuel psi?

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

I have a 3 bar sensor

The guages are from Dynotune Nitrous, I used their digital N2o guage when I sprayed the car and it was very accurate so I decided I'd stick to their brand. I will log fuel pressure through my HP Tuner MVPI Interface box, my guage has a electronic 0-5V sender. You can log any 0-5V signal if you know how to do it, I used to log when my nitrous solenoids were energized with it, made tuning it on the juice VERY easy.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Thats how I'm going to log my AFR, but I don't remember seeing the output for the fuel pressure gauge. I bought it used, so I'm not really sure about the wiring that comes from the sender. I have my wideband using the egr, I guess I could have the fuel pressure use the a/c.

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

If they dont list Dynotune's guage I'll just have to figure out the voltage offset, once I do that I'll let Bill @HPT and have them add it to the next release or at least sticky it somewhere on their forum. If you are logging AFR through the EGR then you dont have the EIO version, it would be a good upgrade for you to consider when your budget will allow.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I have to upgrade to get the 2 bar OS. Where would I log it from then when I upgrade?

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

With your upgrade you will get a second horizontle column below the main PID list/table (think its labled EIO), you can add a user defined input to that table and call it what you want or choose from a sensor list or a list of pre configured inputs like an LM1 AFR specific PID.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Can I just keep it the way I have it now and log it that way?

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Yeah, it'll work that way.

ttranssam

iTrader: (10)

hey did you have enough room to leave the alt. in the lower location? looks like it. i hate how it makes the motor look when mounted up so high...damn good progress bud

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Thanks man, I used a truck manifold on the drivers side so yes I had to move the alt up, and yes its friggin up there If I ever get time I plan on making another bracket thats very similar but 1 inch lower.

blazin

iTrader: (16)

Waiting for updates!

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

I have some pics I havent posted yet but for the very latest you can see this thread.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...huts-down.html

blazin

iTrader: (16)

Videos?

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

Yes I plan on getting caught up with pics and vids, sorry been really busy.

exodus

iTrader: (15)

So that means all of us that have sat here and followed your biuld for 199 posts are all looking at you waiting to see results! I commend you for what you have done, learned, and created, but............................................... ......

WE WANT VIDS AND PICS!

J/k, sometimes I get impatient!LOL

WS6HUMMER

iTrader: (19)

I still have to take a vid but heres some pics that were on the camera.

Vaccum T I made, it was a 3/8 NPT T that I drilled and tapped 1/8NPT on the flat spots.


Here's what 130.00 worth of -4 vaccum lines look like, lol. I've had 2 friends loose engines to a vaccum line blowing off so I made every line I could a -4.
For the MAP sensor I still used a -4 but used 2" of vaccum hose and a -4 to barbed fitting. These lines were made by HSW, they are actually steel braded nitrous lines with a black PVC coating over them.


Here's another pic of the WG and the -4 lines.


Here's a pic of the BOV nipple, 3/8 bung for the IAT sensor, & 1/8 bung for the boost siginal to the boost controller I welded in. For the BOV I needed a 1" od aluminum nipple, I couldnt find one anywhere so I ended up using some sched 40 pipe I orderd from a metal supply store.


Got the DP wrapped, also made a steam pipe hard line from some brake line, its kinda hard to see though.


Vid coming soon!