turbo on m6
#21
When I had a STS on my car I could not make full boost in 1st gear. I had a 5lb wastegate spring....saw 4PSI in 1st. From 2nd gear on I could get full 5PSI. In 3rd gear and above I had full 5PSI by 3000RPM's. I had a wrapped exhaust which helped in boost lag, but had retained my LT headers that were detrimental to boost production. It's a funtion of exhaust velocity + load. More load = more volume of exhaust to spin the turbine. A M6 car has a very steep 1st gear. Hard to produe the load needed to produe full boost in 1st gear as a result.
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ID3MPLX8oz0
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ID3MPLX8oz0
Think a good set of DRs or slicks would hold that?
#25
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Lots of info on this. Some of the "basics":
1. Wrap the exhaust from the Y-pipe back.
2. Run stock manifolds.
3. BOV is needed
4. Lower numerical gears (2.73's, 3.08's are preferred to larger number gears such as 3.73's and 4.10's) The lower numerical gears provide more load on the engine when accelerating and thus help the turbo spool faster. Done right the car will be quicker from less lag-time even though it has less gear. Totally opposite from conventional naturally-aspirated wisdom.
5. 2-bar SD tune. Being able to tune cells in the "part-boost" region (110-130kPA for 5PSI of boost) decreases lag times and allows for a smoother, more OEM transition than a standard 1-bar MAF tune.
There's plenty more info. But this will get you started.