LSX Miata Rear Mount Turbo Plan
09-24-2008, 08:06 PM
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LSX Miata Rear Mount Turbo Plan I am planning on adding a low boost rear mount turbo to my 1990 LS Powered Miata. The engine currently consists of an L33 5.3 block with an LS6 intake and custom SS exhaust manifolds. The exhaust is currently dual 2.5" pipes until it y's together under the rear axle into a single 3" pipe leading to a magnaflow muffler.
I have a turbo that was given to me. I have not yet determined what it is. It appears to be a T4 with a .87 A/R. I also have my waste gate and blow off valve. I have a few questions for those of you who have actually built a remote mount turbo setup. (I am not interested in hearsay or debating front mount vs rear mounts. I understand that turbos should be as close to the engine as possible. As stated above this turbo is going on a MAZDA MIATA with a V8, I don't have room up front!)
The plan right now is to aim for 5-7 psi.
I want to have a self contained oiling system and was wondering if anyone had experience with pumps from these guys: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm Good? Bad? Average? Should I run a cooler? Warmer? Filter? Do I need one pump for suction and one for pressure? How large of a sump would you recommend? #3 or #4 feed line? #10 or #12 return line? Do you use a restrictor on the feed side?
Would you use a single 3" exhaust or single 2.5" exhaust? My idea is to build a y pipe at the front of the car and run a single insulated exhaust back to the turbo. My plan to insulate the pipe is to wrap it with header wrap and then use the next size up exhaust pipe to make the pipe double walled. I know this will add a little weight. To offset the weight, I plan on running heavy duty rubber hose for the cold side pipe. Any thoughts on this?
What is the limit for stock LS6 fuel injectors? I will get 42# or 63# injectors once the limit of the LS6 injectors is found...
Thanks in advance for any guidance that you can provide.
karl
I have a turbo that was given to me. I have not yet determined what it is. It appears to be a T4 with a .87 A/R. I also have my waste gate and blow off valve. I have a few questions for those of you who have actually built a remote mount turbo setup. (I am not interested in hearsay or debating front mount vs rear mounts. I understand that turbos should be as close to the engine as possible. As stated above this turbo is going on a MAZDA MIATA with a V8, I don't have room up front!)
The plan right now is to aim for 5-7 psi.
I want to have a self contained oiling system and was wondering if anyone had experience with pumps from these guys: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm Good? Bad? Average? Should I run a cooler? Warmer? Filter? Do I need one pump for suction and one for pressure? How large of a sump would you recommend? #3 or #4 feed line? #10 or #12 return line? Do you use a restrictor on the feed side?
Would you use a single 3" exhaust or single 2.5" exhaust? My idea is to build a y pipe at the front of the car and run a single insulated exhaust back to the turbo. My plan to insulate the pipe is to wrap it with header wrap and then use the next size up exhaust pipe to make the pipe double walled. I know this will add a little weight. To offset the weight, I plan on running heavy duty rubber hose for the cold side pipe. Any thoughts on this?
What is the limit for stock LS6 fuel injectors? I will get 42# or 63# injectors once the limit of the LS6 injectors is found...
Thanks in advance for any guidance that you can provide.
karl
09-24-2008, 09:21 PM
#2
Some of the questions I can answer...
3" exhaust should be good, I wouldn't choke then engine with a 2.5" setup.
You could just use thin wall Aluminum tubing for the cold side piping 'cos it'll weigh just as much or even be lighter than heavy rubber tubing and have no lag inducing expansion.
Stock LS injectors run out of puff pretty soon (they can barely handle a cam swap) unless you also use a pump booster/etc. so prepare for that and replace them while you're at it.
You could also use aluminum as the insulating tubing for the exhaust to offset some weight, 'cos the main advantage I see out of running the double wall is the insulating air gap.
I'll let someone else chime in on the oiling side 'cos I haven't personally done a self contained setup, although if you have the tank higher than the turbo, you'll need two pumps 'cos you can't take advantage of gravity for the return. I'd see the need for a check valve, orifice, and a filter though...
3" exhaust should be good, I wouldn't choke then engine with a 2.5" setup.
You could just use thin wall Aluminum tubing for the cold side piping 'cos it'll weigh just as much or even be lighter than heavy rubber tubing and have no lag inducing expansion.
Stock LS injectors run out of puff pretty soon (they can barely handle a cam swap) unless you also use a pump booster/etc. so prepare for that and replace them while you're at it.
You could also use aluminum as the insulating tubing for the exhaust to offset some weight, 'cos the main advantage I see out of running the double wall is the insulating air gap.
I'll let someone else chime in on the oiling side 'cos I haven't personally done a self contained setup, although if you have the tank higher than the turbo, you'll need two pumps 'cos you can't take advantage of gravity for the return. I'd see the need for a check valve, orifice, and a filter though...
09-24-2008, 10:29 PM
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Hey-
52172-The goal is spinning tires in fourth gear at highway speeds! Plus I want something a little different. When I put this car together a few years back it was one of three in the US that I could find. Now there are a number of companies selling kits to put LS engines into this car, so its not quit as unique as it once was.
Mean Green z28- Thanks for the input! Maybe i can build a 3" single exhaust wrapped and made into double wall with 3.5". I want to get rid of as much lag as possible. What size pipe do you run for your cold side piping?
52172-The goal is spinning tires in fourth gear at highway speeds! Plus I want something a little different. When I put this car together a few years back it was one of three in the US that I could find. Now there are a number of companies selling kits to put LS engines into this car, so its not quit as unique as it once was.
Mean Green z28- Thanks for the input! Maybe i can build a 3" single exhaust wrapped and made into double wall with 3.5". I want to get rid of as much lag as possible. What size pipe do you run for your cold side piping?
Last edited by ls1mx5; 09-24-2008 at 10:30 PM. Reason: spelling mistake
09-24-2008, 11:34 PM
#5
Hey-
52172-The goal is spinning tires in fourth gear at highway speeds! Plus I want something a little different. When I put this car together a few years back it was one of three in the US that I could find. Now there are a number of companies selling kits to put LS engines into this car, so its not quit as unique as it once was.
Mean Green z28- Thanks for the input! Maybe i can build a 3" single exhaust wrapped and made into double wall with 3.5". I want to get rid of as much lag as possible. What size pipe do you run for your cold side piping?
52172-The goal is spinning tires in fourth gear at highway speeds! Plus I want something a little different. When I put this car together a few years back it was one of three in the US that I could find. Now there are a number of companies selling kits to put LS engines into this car, so its not quit as unique as it once was.
Mean Green z28- Thanks for the input! Maybe i can build a 3" single exhaust wrapped and made into double wall with 3.5". I want to get rid of as much lag as possible. What size pipe do you run for your cold side piping?
09-25-2008, 12:13 AM
#6
1. use 2.5" exhaust, it will be plenty, it's what i'm using and i'm pushing around 900hp of exhaust through it
2. don't worry about weight for the charge piping, it could be made out of lead and it won't matter because of the power you will be making. I see rubber hose as a large failure point, and it's not light either.
3. use engine oil, not a self contained system. A self contained system has 2 pumps (Feed and scavange) and is more likely to fail in the long run.
4. get a life insurance policy if you have a family
Use the KISS principle and you'll thank yourself later.
2. don't worry about weight for the charge piping, it could be made out of lead and it won't matter because of the power you will be making. I see rubber hose as a large failure point, and it's not light either.
3. use engine oil, not a self contained system. A self contained system has 2 pumps (Feed and scavange) and is more likely to fail in the long run.
4. get a life insurance policy if you have a family
Use the KISS principle and you'll thank yourself later.
