Nylon Fuel line fitting attachment
08-23-2011, 06:24 PM
#41
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Well my problem is the line from the truck intake exits at the rear of the engine on the driver side and the hard lines are on the passenger side at the front of the car. So I still have to remove part of the hardline and probably do at least 1 90 deg bend. So that means I have to remove it anyways.
08-25-2011, 08:38 AM
#42
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As I listed before, I did the same as LSJM1 did. Except I got mine off of a Caprice. Got the whole line, the frame clips and filter clamp for under $10. Shortened one end to compensate for the length of the cars, and used a brass "repair" fitting from O'rylies. Havent had an issue in 4 years of it leaking, bulging, cracking or the likes.
08-25-2011, 09:52 AM
#43
Rust!! Up north in the rustbelt I hate metal lines. I am going to be plumbing my monte carlo soon and will be running all plastic. On my daily driver el camino I usually have to replace all my steel brake lines at least every 5 years. I only have a short section of metal on the fuel line and if it goes bad again I will plastic line that whole car too.
08-27-2011, 04:36 PM
#44
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I'm assuming it's because doing it my way would be difficult to get a straight "push" on the fitting. However, I think a little time spent making a wooden block with a "pocket" for the fitting to sit in would yield good results.
This isn't difficult stuff. The hard part is finding a way to hold both pieces securely while they're pressed together.
I ordered a set of those clamps, btw. Couldn't hurt.
This isn't difficult stuff. The hard part is finding a way to hold both pieces securely while they're pressed together.
I ordered a set of those clamps, btw. Couldn't hurt.
Yes the 90° fittings have a special reciever to press them on.
There is also a piece that holds it down into the reciever. Without it would just get pushed out the top of the reciever block while crimping.
I luckily have the advantage to pass the cost of the kit along to cutomers for repairs, but props to you guys figuring out DIY ways on the cheap.
08-27-2011, 06:04 PM
#45
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Thanks 1936 LS1 Thanks 1936 LS1 for the method of using the caulking gun.I used the wooden block and made two of them as I had to attach the new Nylon line to the original steel 5/16 line that has a barbed end.The nylon to steel coupling took a few times to get it right as the nylon line wanted to kink but I finally got it on.Thanks so much.
10-04-2011, 11:11 AM
#47
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Great thread! I'm picking up a caprice tank this weekend for my Buick and was wondering if I could just use the factory lines from it as well. This thread answered that question and I'm sure has just saved me a good amount of $.
10-07-2011, 07:51 PM
#48
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Aceshigh
Just tried the link to the Dorman web page. The link is broken try this link
http://www.dormanproducts.com/docume...uyersGuide.pdf
Just tried the link to the Dorman web page. The link is broken try this link
http://www.dormanproducts.com/docume...uyersGuide.pdf
Dude, this helped MORE then you can possibly imagine.
I was almost going to fork out over $200 in PTFE lines and fittings.
Instead, I'm following your tutorial and doing your method this weekend and saving $100 in parts and $100 for the tool.
I posted it on Nastyz28 as well to help other guys out with your link of course so you get the props.
This is unbeatable.....
You can plumb your entire system for under $100 with NEW OEM lines.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalo...Disconnect.pdf
You get packs of 5 fittings each for $12.99 or 2 for $6.99
I just spoke with Dorman via chat to confirm this is correct.
Any part #'s that end in ".5" like 800-082.5 = Quantity of 5
So Advanced is the best place to get all of these parts with the $20 off $50 coupons.
SOOOOOOLLD!!!!!!
Example $12.99 > DORMAN 800-082.5 3/8 to 3/8 straight QTY = 5
I was almost going to fork out over $200 in PTFE lines and fittings.
Instead, I'm following your tutorial and doing your method this weekend and saving $100 in parts and $100 for the tool.
I posted it on Nastyz28 as well to help other guys out with your link of course so you get the props.
This is unbeatable.....
You can plumb your entire system for under $100 with NEW OEM lines.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalo...Disconnect.pdf
You get packs of 5 fittings each for $12.99 or 2 for $6.99
I just spoke with Dorman via chat to confirm this is correct.
Any part #'s that end in ".5" like 800-082.5 = Quantity of 5
So Advanced is the best place to get all of these parts with the $20 off $50 coupons.
SOOOOOOLLD!!!!!!
Example $12.99 > DORMAN 800-082.5 3/8 to 3/8 straight QTY = 5
10-12-2011, 05:06 PM
#49
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Thank you so much for this. I've been looking for an inexpensive alternative and this is perfect. Couple of questions:
1) Is there a trick to making sharp bends in the tubing? (45's and 90's)
2) How can I connect this tubing to the ends of this sending unit
1) Is there a trick to making sharp bends in the tubing? (45's and 90's)
2) How can I connect this tubing to the ends of this sending unit
10-13-2011, 11:28 AM
#51
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10-18-2011, 11:21 AM
#53
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The sending and return lines have some kind of flare with a little rubber gasket and metric male threaded fittings. I found the connector to change it over to plastic though. It's in the dorman catalog.
08-29-2012, 07:59 AM
#58
I bought the Dorman kit and a 25' roll of 3/8" tubing for under 200$ - not cheap but the next car I build will only cost about $25 to plumb the toll works really nice IMO
/////bumping this up for people looking for OE qualirty plumbing that wont leak like braided or the cost
/////bumping this up for people looking for OE qualirty plumbing that wont leak like braided or the cost
10-15-2012, 10:51 AM
#59
Update Just thought I'd update since the car was finally fired up and driven this week. I never did add the clamps to the fittings that were posted earlier (couldn't figure out how to make them work! DOH!) but the car doesn't have the slightest hint of a leak ANYWHERE!
These fittings are on every connection in the fuel system (total of 6). Dorman also makes a PTC (push-to-connect) splice for this style of line. I rerouted my lines at the last minute and had to use them. Again, not a hint of leakage!
BTW, I ended up making the "wooden block" style clamp referenced in the earlier post and had great success with it. Clamped the line in the block, then the block in my bench vise and pushed the fitting in with a short piece of 2X4 (remove the plastic "Keeper" first). I lubed the fitting VERY VERY lightly with oil first. I had to tap the block lightly with a small hammer a bit to seat it completely but the first barb went on just be pressing on it.
Just wanted to come back and verify that it works as well in practice as it did in theory.
These fittings are on every connection in the fuel system (total of 6). Dorman also makes a PTC (push-to-connect) splice for this style of line. I rerouted my lines at the last minute and had to use them. Again, not a hint of leakage!
BTW, I ended up making the "wooden block" style clamp referenced in the earlier post and had great success with it. Clamped the line in the block, then the block in my bench vise and pushed the fitting in with a short piece of 2X4 (remove the plastic "Keeper" first). I lubed the fitting VERY VERY lightly with oil first. I had to tap the block lightly with a small hammer a bit to seat it completely but the first barb went on just be pressing on it.
Just wanted to come back and verify that it works as well in practice as it did in theory.
01-07-2013, 02:25 PM
#60
Has anyone found out a good way to put bends in the plastic tube? I imagine on the cars that use plastic lines from the factory they heat the tube up and hold the bend in until it cools down. I am a little bit hesitant to try heating the plastic up, worried I might fatigue it. Has anyone tried heating it up to bend it? and if so what did you use to heat it?