round silver thing on fuel rail
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 948
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From: orlando, florida
round silver thing on fuel rail Call me stupid but what is that round silver thing on the fuel rail that looks kinda like a pressure regulator? can i remove it or do i need it? Sorry for the dumb question but i`ve been trying to figure out what the hell this thing is for awhile. 
not sure if this the the technical name, but i've heard it called a pulse dampener, based on that, i can assume its a little bladder that evens out the rail pressure, when the injectors cycle...
i would not reccomend removing it.
but then again, if i had your setup, (and money no object) i would have a returnstyle fuel system, and vac/boost referenced rail mounted regulator as well.
i would not reccomend removing it.
but then again, if i had your setup, (and money no object) i would have a returnstyle fuel system, and vac/boost referenced rail mounted regulator as well.
Some people remove an internal piece to reduce the
side-side imbalance at higher injector flows. I did a
search on "fuel pulse damper" & variations and came
up with squat, although I know I've seen it discussed.
side-side imbalance at higher injector flows. I did a
search on "fuel pulse damper" & variations and came
up with squat, although I know I've seen it discussed.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 9,246
Likes: 3
From: Troy, AL
Yeah, it's the fuel pulse dampner. I experimented with modifying it once. I gutted it and it caused a major disparity if fuel pressure between the two rails (I was running right at the ragged edge of what the rails could handle.) So, I installed a new one. Then I tried gutting the part of the rail that the dampner inserts into. That worked a little. It helped to get a little more fuel to the passenger's side rail which was running a bit lean.
Honestly, I think you're best to get aftermarket rails if you're at the power level that's maxing out the factory ones.
Honestly, I think you're best to get aftermarket rails if you're at the power level that's maxing out the factory ones.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 9,246
Likes: 3
From: Troy, AL
If you're running the ragged edge of what the fuel rail can support, DON'T cut the dampner. Gut the part of the rail that the dampner inserts into but don't gut the dampner itself. I found this out the hard way. It caused major disparity in fuel mixture from one side to the other. The passenger's went REAL lean for me when I did this. If you are not on the ragged edge then you won't know the difference but then why be messing with it?
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Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 948
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From: orlando, florida
Actualy whats the differance between gutting the dampner and running aftermarket rails? the aftermaket rails feed from one rail and don`t have a dampner. Atleast the stock rail is feeding from the crossover tube.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 9,246
Likes: 3
From: Troy, AL
My theory is that when you gut the dampner (the insert, not the rail where it resides) you set up some kind of reversion, or cavitation, that causes alot more restriction than what you've relieved. A MUCH better way would be to replace that part of the rail with a piece of pipe. Take the damper completely out of the equation.
I don't believe a dampner is necessary (like you said, you don't have one with aftermarket rails) but gutting the thing sure caused some bad results for me.
I don't believe a dampner is necessary (like you said, you don't have one with aftermarket rails) but gutting the thing sure caused some bad results for me.
We have a set of rails that will take care of your problem. We have a setup to bolt directly to the stock feed line. All on special this month in the sponsor section give me a call and I can set you up with what you need.
Nate
Nate
