2000 LS1 Fobdy starting issues
#1
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2000 LS1 Fobdy starting issues
Car used to take maybe 2-3 times to start (would crank fine, just wouldn’t start) and gradually progressed to where it won’t start now (but cranks fine).
Seems like the injectors are not triggering because if I put starting fluid in the throttle body, the car will start very briefly then die. Have done the following:
Fuses – checked injector fuses (all fuses, actually) and all are fine.
Fuel Pressure – have about 60psi when the key is turned on, then about 3-5 seconds later it drops to about 45 or so, so seems good. Depressed the schrader valve and fuel comes out, too, and retested fuel pressure with same results.
Grounds – checked grounds as best I could and looked for broken wires and loose connections; all look good.
Injectors – tested with an ohm meter and all have similar readings (and none are zero or infinity).
Spark – have spark because it runs briefly when I put the starting fluid in the TB.
No SES lights are on.
Any ideas? Could the crankshaft position sensor be possible? If so, how does one test that?
Thanks in advance.
Seems like the injectors are not triggering because if I put starting fluid in the throttle body, the car will start very briefly then die. Have done the following:
Fuses – checked injector fuses (all fuses, actually) and all are fine.
Fuel Pressure – have about 60psi when the key is turned on, then about 3-5 seconds later it drops to about 45 or so, so seems good. Depressed the schrader valve and fuel comes out, too, and retested fuel pressure with same results.
Grounds – checked grounds as best I could and looked for broken wires and loose connections; all look good.
Injectors – tested with an ohm meter and all have similar readings (and none are zero or infinity).
Spark – have spark because it runs briefly when I put the starting fluid in the TB.
No SES lights are on.
Any ideas? Could the crankshaft position sensor be possible? If so, how does one test that?
Thanks in advance.
#3
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Get under the car and hit the gas tank about 10 times with a hammer. Thats the problems in gm products these days. Gas tanks hold back gas. When you hit the tank about 10 times you will hear the gas rushing down. If thats not the problem Then you have something with injectors.
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I only have a basic scanner and it does not allow to scan for the crank sensor.
Is there a way to if power's going to the injectors by using a regular and basic voltmeter? I imagine with quick pulses it'd have to be one that reacts quickly and the Craftsman $30 special one I have may not work.
Is there a way to if power's going to the injectors by using a regular and basic voltmeter? I imagine with quick pulses it'd have to be one that reacts quickly and the Craftsman $30 special one I have may not work.
#6
Check your grounds on the rear cylinder head on the drivers side and push down on the electrical box under the hood a few times. There is a bulletin about the main ground losing contact,
I only have a basic scanner and it does not allow to scan for the crank sensor.
Is there a way to if power's going to the injectors by using a regular and basic voltmeter? I imagine with quick pulses it'd have to be one that reacts quickly and the Craftsman $30 special one I have may not work.
Is there a way to if power's going to the injectors by using a regular and basic voltmeter? I imagine with quick pulses it'd have to be one that reacts quickly and the Craftsman $30 special one I have may not work.