Dual Walbro Wiring Install
It is true, no matter how you slice it
A large wire at the beginning and a small at the end is the same as a small wire beginning, large at the end or small all over. Wire can only pass X amps before it overheats and melts. If you push Y amps through 10ga wire then try to pass it through 16ga wire rated at X amps, you will melt it. Therefore, X is the max amps you can pass through the circuit because of the smallest wire IE 16 ga in this example
The point Im trying to make is, without the intake wiring, a hotwire kit is just a $50 relay doing the same job of your stock stuff with no benefit
A large wire at the beginning and a small at the end is the same as a small wire beginning, large at the end or small all over. Wire can only pass X amps before it overheats and melts. If you push Y amps through 10ga wire then try to pass it through 16ga wire rated at X amps, you will melt it. Therefore, X is the max amps you can pass through the circuit because of the smallest wire IE 16 ga in this example
The point Im trying to make is, without the intake wiring, a hotwire kit is just a $50 relay doing the same job of your stock stuff with no benefit
But 14 teflon would be what I would with in the tank.
Nice write up! One question on your wiring out of the relay. I thought that #87 terminal is supposed to be the output of the relay and #30 the battery supply to the relay so that the relay properly carries the load in the system.
Last edited by Moter; Dec 11, 2011 at 10:13 AM. Reason: Spelling............
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i read in another thread that it could cause too much pressure at idle and that's what has me a bit concerned, assuming it's true. i have a hobbs switch and it's easy enough to wire in but wondered whats the point with such long lasting pumps.
I have an aeromotive a-1000 regulator, it works just fine. Pressure stays constant.
^^^^ any concerns with fuel heating up in the lines maybe? At least thats what ive hear
here. I suck at wiring myself so if i can get aeay with running two pumps all the time without
issues then i might do that.
here. I suck at wiring myself so if i can get aeay with running two pumps all the time without
issues then i might do that.
Yeah, but don't forget, bad ss has a regulator and everything to take care of his possible high fuel pressure problems. If you ran stock everything with dual pumps, I'm sure you would have high fuel pressure at idle. I just bough a lonnies kit, with a Hobbs switch. Super easy to install. Im super you could save money doing it yourself, but I hate electrical. So I went this route.
Works amazing.
Works amazing.
I wouldn't recommend running both pumps all the time. For one its not needed. For two it will only cause pump failure at an earlier rate. Wiring the hobbs switch is quick, cheap, and easy enough to do. Its one thing to have a fuel regulator that is sending the unneeded fuel back to the tank. You are not over pressurizing your fuel system that way. Its not hurting anything however you are not using that extra fuel while not in boost. So the fuel pump is running for no reason. Wiring both pumps together in my opinion is the lazy inefficient way of going about fixing the problem. With how I have it set up, One fuel pump running is more that enough fuel to keep the car fueled while not in boost. The second fuel pump receives power the second the car gets into boost.
If you wanted to add a manual override and a dummy light you would break positive with the switch. Have one side of your dummy light connected to ground, or negative. Take your switch and run 2 12 gauge wires to the duel fuel pump relays. One side would connect to 87, and the other side would connect to 30 on the relay for your secondary fuel pump. That will bypass the relay for the secondary fuel pump. The side of your switch that you ran to 30 on your secondary fuel pump relay will also have your dummy light wired in with it. 30 is your positive wire. The switch is breaking positive.
I'm not understanding why you would even want to wire through a sending unit. All the sending unit is, is a lever and a float that has an electrical dial. I believe the sending unit is a resistance based dial. You wouldn't run your pumps off of it. Your pumps have two wires each, a positive and a negative. They are either on or they are off. The fuel pressure is not adjusted nor related to the sending unit. All the sending unit does is tell your gas tank fuel level. Your fuel pressure regulator is not electrical, its mechanical. If this has not answered your question, please re-ask or ask in a different way. I'm not understanding how its relative to this dual fuel pump with a hobbs switch install.