I'm in the process of putting second Walbro in my 98' (1 was installed by previous owner) and have couple of questions.
1) for joining flow from two pumps together, is Y coupler better than T coupler? Visually looks "better" but in both 2 flows join at 90 degrees. Now I'm going to put nylon (I think it's nylon) T connector, 5/16" hoses.
2) I've noticed that in stock setup there is 1 tiny ground wire from the connector to the metal mount and then same tiny wire goes to the pump. Total length about 10". Should I bother changing this wire to some larger wire?
Attached a pic for that.
BTW this clip was very loose and could probably produce a spark in my tank
3) What are 4 tubes that go to my tank? 1 is connected to the pump, 1 to fuel regulator (return line obviously), what are 2 other lines?

 

Here's what I've done... Critics and opinions are welcome

 

I wouldnt use a plastic splitter personally, a metal one similar would be very nice.

The other lines are evap purge and vent.

I would run new wires to the new pump. Dont share power or ground.

 

Hmm... Is it worth the hassle changing it? I'd probably use smth. of better geometry if i ever do that:


I run new AWG 13 wires to the new pump, connected to "walbro" supplied harness only 3 inches from the pump. I was just concerned about stock tiny ground wire inside the tank. Actually running new wires through the tank cap was one of my main concerns. I haven't put any silicone on the cap around the wires yet (pic)
I say "walbro" because I'm not really sure it's genuine

 

Do you think it's OK how I run my wires into the cap?

 

You at least need some kind of grommet, and seal. Like Goop, or epoxy.

You might want to think about this set-up, if you have the room.

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...%2D001&eq=&Tp=

 

Use the Y connector as in post #4
Get rid of that rubber hose. use the correct OEM style Nylon.
http://www.racetronix.biz/items.asp?...%20-%20Plastic

Use this for the wire harness. this harness has all the correct plugs
http://www.racetronix.biz/customkiti...=BCWA-FL98&eq=

 

What exactly is wrong with my hose? That it's not nylon?

 

That type of rubber hose will deteriorate. Read the posts in this forum. people crying about
fuel pressure problems. That rubber type of hose is probably 90% of the problem.

 

That is fuel type hose. It is designed to handle fuel. It does not deteriorate

 

nothing wrong with fuel injection rated hose in the tank.

 

You need to make sure the hose is rated to be submersible in fuel. Not all fuel injection hose is submersible. It's expensive, and might be hard to find in Latvia. That's why some are suggesting the nylon hose from Racetronix. Gates SAE30R10

http://search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A0oGd...ocation_id=541

 

I didnt use that hose, shame on me. Jegs and amazon has it on a quick search

 

If I can get my hands on such hose I will.
I wonder if Walbro supplied hose is submersible.

 

Can I just use RTV or some other silicone to seal those 2 new wire to the cap? No "goop" here...

 

any sealant will work, but you NEED a grommet on that power wire !!!!!

 

YEAH, Best way to use grommet on or tape on.
Good job.

 

I'd have to find where to source such grommet, so far haven't seen one. And I'd have to take it all out again to drill bigger hole, hard enough to do through that small hole in the tank...
I've got another question, I wanted some indication that there is power to the pump, so I put LED in the dash, 1 leg to ground, other to second pump relay 12V output, so when relay provides 12V LED would glow. However LEDs keep burning off after a few minutes and switches of pump. Any ideas why they burn out?

 

Back to old topic Why do I need grommet, so that the wire wouldn't cut through insulation and make short with ground?
Also, with windows down, I can smell fuel inside, since installing second pump. Can this smell be from not having air-tight seal?

 

Yes to both questions. I'm getting ready to do this on a customer's car and will be using "stepped" hard cork/fiber washers (or delrin) on each power/ground lead on the inside and outside of the fuel pump plastic (2000) pump housing top.....using soldered loop connections and a bolt going through them.....very similar to aftermarket fuel sending units. If I can make it all fit, it will both isolate the power and grounds (not that big of a deal on a plastic pump housing....but a HUGE deal on the metal ones) AND have the added benefit of being a sealed vapor barrier.