z-maro

iTrader: (18)

Just finishing up the install myslef, thanks for the great thread! Did any of your hotwire kits come with the addition ground cable with labels on it saying to go from battery ground to chassis ground? Looking at the battery connector it looks like throwing in another ring lug under it could affect making good contact with the terminal. Is there reason to believe that the factory ground is insufficient?

I also got the boost-a-pump when I ordered mine, don't plan on running it at this time anyways but that also came with no instructions whatsoever.

NineZeroFive

Yeah that's an additional piece you can order to help ground your electrical system. I didn't use it as I did the big 3 upgrade when I did the headers. Can't hurt to have more grounds. Try it out and it'll be obvious if its interfering.

Edit: thanks for the compliment!

BoinaVerde

NineZeroFive, thanks for the great write-up an pics. It annoys me as well that Racetronix included no instructions for the wiring kit and do not have any instructions posted on their support page. The trap door mod is a real time saver and I've never heard once of it being an issue with an insurance company. I'm guessing Racetronix is only covering their own *** by frowning upon the process, which is understandable I suppose with litigation being what it is these days. But what I do take issue with is them making a comment about the warranty being void if the tank isn't cleaned. WTF???!!! If that's true, how about making that statement up front in big bold letters on the purchase page?! So Racetronix, A for a great product, A for the instuctions with the pump, C for your stance on the trap door mod, D for you comment about needing to clean the tank which I have not seen mentioned anywhere else, and a big fat F for not including instructions with your wiring harness. Thanks again NineZeroFive for picking up the slack!

pdxmotorhead

Just to throw more gas on the fire... LOL

If you make a trapdoor, it should be air tight. so once you cut the hole, the new trapdoor piece needs to be bigger than the hole and have a fire resistant gasket around it or at least fit very tight.. I'd use nutserts and screws or 1/4 turn fasteners..

G Atsma

^^^^EXCELLENT idea!^^^^^^
Wouldn't want to make an ash of yourself.....

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

Extra area around the hole to put a seal on it.

mwfrels

I went through similar with them in 2016. I just read your thread in their forum. They closed mine. The tubing I used for the venturi tube is 3mm x 5mm Teflon sourced from McMaster-Carr under their p/n 5733K73. Much more resistant to kinking that the 3.4 x 4.5 they supplied. Use of a heat gun to make a little more supple when installing over the barbs was the only caveat.

M

99SSLSWON

I know this is an old post but I wanted to thank the OP and everyone in this thread. The information in here was enough for me to confidently and successfully tackle this job. I mounted my relay on the bolt that racetronix suggested here. I have the 2 brake line mount there. I carefully bent my brake lines away enough to fit the relay up and behind and it worked out great. I also ordered and used the mcmastercarr 5733K73 3mmX5mm venturi tubing. It fit on the barbs nicely and was surprisingly way more resistant to kinking than the supplied tube. I was expecting a serious job here and overall it was nice and relatively straight forward. It was nice to use this thread leading up to and during the install. Thanks again.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i find this to be the best place for the relay.......outta harms way here

Cjwhite73

PontiacFan

iTrader: (104)

My following dots, ...
When I want to find this later, this will help in my search.
(Yes, I also subscribed & can get here that way too, ...)

Pbarby

Great instructions. Just finished the install tonight and this thread gave me confidence with both the pump and hotwire kit. One of the two kits came with extra terminals and plugs, which I don't think were needed (and I didn't use). It'll be a couple months, i think, before I can check my work since I'm in process of installing a Thompson LS3 416 but I feel confident in my work. Few things I wanted to point out to others; my car is an 01 WS6.

1 .As the op stated, loosening the two tank screws in front of the tank is a must, especially for fishing the hotwire harness, it'll make the trap door less-stressful as well (still be careful). I didn't remove the pitman arm.
2. Read through the instructions a couple times before starting. There's a new terminal that needs to be replaced on the top of the canister. If you miss it (like I did), you'll have to take the canister apart again.
3. When installing the sock on the bottom of the canister, be careful not to break loose the venturi check-valve(?) in the bottom of the canister when installing the new sock. I did and stacked an O2 sensor socket and additional sockets on top of the valve and hit the top socket with a hammer to press the sock on; the sock is recessed at the bottom of the canister so I used a 1/4" thick by 1" wide piece of wood for it to sit on when hammering. Luckily, no fuel leaked when I filled the canister with fuel.
4. I attached the relay and ground wire to the brake line bracket seen in the bottom left corner of sjsingle1 pic above...fits well and looks clean. My car is a midwest car so the bracket was rusty and needed to be cleaned with a 2" wheel pad and 15" extension on my drill.
5. I also wished the fuse near the alternator connector was further back so I can be mounted by the rest of the fuses, I'll probably do the same thing the OP did and cut/solder it to my desired location.
6. Old vs new venturi hose...ughh...read above posts...ughh.

If you're not confident, read the OP's post a few times, other posts and the few YouTube video's out there, you'll then find it to be simple (but time consuming) to complete provided you follow all the advise.

Edited (added): the canister was a pain to pull out in my 01 ws6. I ended up using a slim-jim (thin metal used to unlock doors, not the snack treat) to shoe-horn out the canister since it seemed to be just a hair wider than the tank opening. Finally, my canister did not have the ring seal referenced in the instructions, just the o-ring that sits between the top lip of the canister and the outside of the tank orifice.

Thanks LS1Tech members.