how to tell if regulator is bad?
03-18-2005, 04:21 PM
#22
when i was sitting there not moving and i gave it a lot of gas it went down to about 58 psi give or take a few. at idle it was right at 62-64 psi and this was on cold start up. but a couple of stabs at the throttle it only droped maybe to about 56 minimum but mostly between 56-60 psi.
03-18-2005, 06:21 PM
#23
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sounds like a check valve, i had the same problem on my 92 taurus SHO, i would start it, but if it stalled or i stalled it on purpose and went to restart, it wouldnt unless i floored the car
03-20-2005, 10:48 AM
#24
ok so here is something new, when i hit the gas hard and get the rpms up sitting still with high throttle angle, the pressure reads about 52, and now i am having problems at idle, the car will stumble and at part throttle sitting still the rpms just jump around too much. but the rail pressure reads constant. what give?
03-21-2005, 01:08 AM
#28
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well i just found one ...some guys from rancho cordova in sacramento ca sold me the wrong pump...it looks like its from a v6...im suprised the car was running...it has no fuel regulator so the fuel was just flowin back lol ....how weird ...so tomorrow im goin over there and chew them out lol
03-21-2005, 11:24 PM
#29
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usually the fuel regulator isnt with the pump but somewhere in the engine by, close to the fuel rails.
I think your check valve might the problem is the fuel keeps going back to the tank or a line might damaged. Anyways, go have some fun with that guy, and see what you can get for your "struggles"
I think your check valve might the problem is the fuel keeps going back to the tank or a line might damaged. Anyways, go have some fun with that guy, and see what you can get for your "struggles"
03-22-2005, 08:20 AM
#30
so listen to this, racetronix said i would have to take the pump out, send it to them and have them test it and if they thought it was bad they would replace it, all this **** after i dropped the tank 2 damn times to trouble shoot like they said and now they want me to send it to them so they can see, i can buy another pump but if they think its ok ill have 2 pumps. thats rediculous, i dont wanna have to get a new pump but all signs are leading to it, figured they would at least try to help out.
03-22-2005, 09:33 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
so listen to this, racetronix said i would have to take the pump out, send it to them and have them test it and if they thought it was bad they would replace it, all this **** after i dropped the tank 2 damn times to trouble shoot like they said and now they want me to send it to them so they can see, i can buy another pump but if they think its ok ill have 2 pumps. thats rediculous, i dont wanna have to get a new pump but all signs are leading to it, figured they would at least try to help out.
03-22-2005, 11:54 PM
#36
Originally Posted by angelo00ss
yep same problem but it was fine when i put the stock on back in so it has to be the check valve
If you are 100% sure it is the pump then we can arrange for a replacement.
We can arrange this with or without a deposit depending on how quickly you need it. The pump is still subject to inspection here to rule out contamination.
Racetronix can not supply replacement pumps in order to isolate questionable problems.
Everybody should keep in mind that Walbro no longer offers an exchange warranty on their pumps. Walbro will replace a defective pump BUT it must be submitted to them for evaluation first. Racetronix is doing its best to deal with this but we must agree with their policy as 98% of all pumps submitted proved not to be defective. Of the 2% that were defective most had failed due to being run dry or contamination. Margins on the pumps are very slim which does not allow for liberal replacement policies. Most customers do not have the tools or technical skill to properly diagnose a fuel system which makes matters worse. More and more people are taking the DIY approach to fuel pump installations which is easily gauged by the volume of support incidents we and our dealers receive. Most incidents are easily avoidable if the G.M. manual in conjunction with the Racetronix manual are followed to a 'T'. No manual can make up for the lack of proper technical training and insight. This is why we recommend always flushing the tank and seeking the assistance of a qualified technician to avoid oversights.
Flushing the tank is a must as there is no way to gauge the level of sediment / contamination by peering into the sender hole. Plastic tanks do not eliminate the possibility of contamination. Contamination is mostly a product of what is pumped into the tank at the gas station. Never assume the tank is clean.
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03-23-2005, 06:00 AM
#37
i have been emailing you all about this, i am 100% sure my pump is the issue at hand since i put the stocker back in and it worked without any problems, and i also ran every test possible to test for other problems first, trust mei dont wanna take the tank down to replace the pump, i wish it was something else
03-23-2005, 09:45 AM
#38
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i have also e-mailed you about my pump, which i am having the same problems with, with no response. My new rear came in yesterday and i want to get my car on the road and not have to worrie about taking my tank out over and over again. Not that is matters because this was a simple install but it was done with a qualified technician and everything was done as per your directions. the tank was droped and cleaned, new gass was put in and it doesn't hold pressure when turned off. Evey test that could be done was and every connection was check and checked again. I put the stock pump back in and the problem went away so it has to be the pump
03-23-2005, 11:43 AM
#40
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How is sediment in your gas tank (contaminants) supposed to ruin a fuel pump? That's why there's the filter sock that goes on the end of the pump, so the sediment CAN'T get inside there to screw things up. 