WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

I am about to just take all their stuff off my car right now, let me explain:

Ok, I put a new fuel pump in last weekend and as soon as I got done, the car would not want to start or restart right. I bought the pump from Thunder Racing and called them up to trouble shoot. I had to go out and buy a fuel pressure gague to test what they wanted me to and I did. Before I got the tester they said its most likely a check valve in the pump or a regulator. The gauge showed 63 psi at idle, and 59 psi WOT. The car also drove fine.

I had been emailing Raceronix back and forth about this and they told me everything to do. I checked the pressure at the rail, fuel filter is brand new. I have no pressure in the fuel rail once the key is shut off. So they told me I should drop the tank and check everything that I most likely messed something up. Pulled the tank and everything was fine. I tightened the clamp a little more and that did nothing.

So now I talk with Paul at Thunder Racing and he gets in touch with Racetronix. The only way they will replace my pump is if i take it out, send it back to them, they test it and determine its bad. If they dont think its bad then they send it back to me. So now I would have to take the car all appart and have it down for about 2 weeks for them to "test" my fuel pump. All this after all the trouble shooting they made me go through and now they are like, well we have to determine that?!

WHAT THE HELL DID THEY MAKE ME DO ALL THAT OTHER WORK FOR!!!!!

I could just imagine if I had a shop do this and I had to pay to have the tank dropped 4 times.

So I took the tank off for a THIRD time and tested the stocker. Now note this, it is all cut up and **** from having to take it out the first time so there is no way I will run the car with this on there for long. But what do you know, the car started and restarted and restarted no problem. So what is left to do now?? Is their testing better than mine??

All I asked was to get a new pump and then I will send that one out, I dont want it, it doesnt work, but they wont do that. Is this not messed up? I can understand to an extent but for all the trouble shooting i went through to try and rule out a bad pump and now they say what I did was worthless? And all of this was after I spent $300 bucks on new injectors that are giving me trouble. I tried to get some help from them on why my car would now idle bad, thinking they could help me and all they could say was "It's all in the tune". Well thats great help there....oh wait. I figured they could tell me a little more, or care a little more.

If I had someone else do this for me and I had to pay figure this:

4 hrs for pump removal * 4 removals = 16 hours * $78/hr
Testing fuel rail and other trouble shooting = 2 hours *$78/hr
Fuel gauge = $40
Fuel pump = $225.00

so that would leave me with a grand total of $1669.00 for a FUEL PUMP!!!

I have spent a good part of a few days working on this, this is rediculous.

angelo00ss

I just went threw the same thing with my car. Nothing but problems with this pump. The car runs 60psi but as soon as i turn the car off it drops to 0. I havn't tried to get in touch with them yet but i have done all the same stuff as WS6FirebirdTA00 with the same results. now i am going to have to mail the pump out to have it checked

JVs95LS1Z28

I feel your pain man. I had some guy sell me a V-6 pump instead of the V-8 one. My car had the same problem starting. Went and exchanged the pump and I can't even put it in yet cause of the damn rain.

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

Funny that you ended up ultimately running into this problem... I actually had the same thing happen with mine, but the pump I had just didn't have the strength to pump it up to operating pressures. After hearing the fuel dump back into the tank while I was having that problem, I was certain it was a leaky hose inside the tank, and I was assured of this by techs that I spoke to.

Ultimately I ended up sending the pump in to get a replacement, and then my problems were solved... after I'd dropped the tank 6-8 times.

FWIW, you might try what I did. Order a new pump from them with your CC, then when they determine your pump is bad they'll refund you the purchase price.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

This is disturbing news since I just put one in my car. I haven't started the engine, but have checked the delivery and it pumps fuel everytime I turn the ignition to the "on" position.

SmokedOutZ28

iTrader: (35)

i have the same problem with my LT1 there pump doesnt want to hold pressure, my stocker was bad and not pumping enough so i thought that i would upgrade since i was replacing it well pressure and flow is fine but when that key is turned off instant 0 psi i was told to check everything and i did twice i even replaced the regulator with a known good one and still same problem.. it's now to the point where they don't respond to my e-mails, i know the car still runs fine and all but damn isnt there soposed to be pressure all the time?

jrp

iTrader: (16)

i've had zero problems with mine *shrug*

NicD

iTrader: (7)

From the sounds of it they removed the check ball (or whatever it is referred to) at the end of the pump that is supposed to hold pressure in the system when it is turned off. I am betting they did that to get more flow?

Ryan K

iTrader: (11)

Did you replace anything else when you did the pump? Like the injectors?

Ryan

SmokedOutZ28

iTrader: (35)

so would that hurt anything??

NicD

iTrader: (7)

If that is all they did then no. Just kind of prime it first before cranking by keying it on so the pump goes, key it off when the pump stops and quickly key it back on and crank it. Just kind of gets the air out of the lines. A lot of larger pumps don't have the ball check valve in there since they are made for the highest flow.

SmokedOutZ28

iTrader: (35)

well thats my only problem with the pump, at idle pressure is 45psi at WOT its @ 52 but when the key is off it drops to 0 the car fires right up, but i thought it would be like a stock pump.

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

Just thank your lucky stars that it doesn't hold pressure, so when an injector starts leaking or hangs open it won't be dumping fuel into your engine and washing the oil out of the cylinders.

I do think the company should've swapped for another pump, or refunded the money on request, as that would've been the best customer service.

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

I noticed you're the same guy having fueling issues at idle.
Are you 100% positive that the injectors you are using are not leaking?
Something like that could explain both problems.

SmokedOutZ28

iTrader: (35)

im not sure if your refering to me but i have no fuel issues at idle, the car runs great and everything is good i just thought that if i was holding pressure before the pump install i should be when i was done.

zo6vetteman2003

iTrader: (1)

I just posted in diagnostics and tuning about Racetronix. I reinstalled my 30# SVO's. Happy again.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

well the pump problems happened before i installed the injectors, the car wouldnt start. after start up, or if i let the pump prime long enough, the car will start and run fine.

then i swapped injectors, this should rule out a leaking injector, problem was still there (plus i had no previous problem that day when i went to move the car to do the pump, but being the good customer i am, i went through EVERYTHING before i blamed the pump, what they thought i should do too.

well now with the new injectors im fighting a new problem, getting the car to idle right, that is driving me up a wall i swear. if any of you all know how i can get the car to idle iwth new injectors PLEASE let me know. i tuned the IFR table, went out and tuned the VE and it wont idle and the oscillation of the o2s is shitty at idle, and before they were great. i dont know if it needs more VE tuning or what?!

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

If it was me I'd definately wire my own relay for the FP right from an ignition power source and bypass the factory priming circuit.
That would probably fix your starting problem assuming you turn the key a second or two before you try to start it.

I read where you made changes in the IFR and VE tables, but I wouldn't call it tuned until you get where you want it to be. Sometimes it takes some time experimenting before you get 100% handle on it.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

i have been trying to switch a log of things for my injector problems. the only thing that concerns me is the o2 switching is really slow, im gonna post in a second the screen shots i have and you can clearly see what im talking about. ill do that in another thread i have going for that problem.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

i would say its a bad batch of pumps? they certainly should have the check ball in there. if racetronix was taking them out then duh they would have told him thats why he has 0 pressure engine not running.

i have two gss340's about a month old from new era performace and they work great.

if you have the walbro pump out of your car now you can blow in the outlet of the pump to see if the check is there or not.. may even be able to see it, i forget.

..mistakes and defects happen.. i wish companies would be more understanding of these occurences.. its not like they are testing every one they sell to have that kind of confidence in the product. *it means return customers*