Fast fuel rail pics.
My question is why do they give you two different size end fittings? And what are the part numbers for the pieces needed to finish the fuel crossover, put a pressure gauge on another end, and connect the last end to the stock fuel input?
why not just take the 8an off the 90s on the backside of the rails to the Y instead ofa ll the fittings?
why not just take the 8an off the 90s on the backside of the rails to the Y instead ofa ll the fittings?
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Sorry no LT1 rails we have modified the stockers to accept AN fittings.
Nate
For 95% of the people installing rails, that's the best and cleanest method to use.
I wanted to tape of the fittings, the balck ones that came with the rails, to well, the rails. Than tape of the npt sides of the fittings as well.
On thing I know is I dind't put any tape on mine and they are totaly leak free.
This is a much cleaner looking configuration..I am getting ready to do this install and this will be the way I do mine..I beleive that you do not need to use tape on these fittings..I have always run mine without tape..
Should i just go ahead and force it in there (hey, thats wat she said!!) or machine it a bit?
EDIT:
Ok, i found these black washers with my kit and used those to space out the passenger side rails a bit. I noticd that they seem to not be straight up, but leaning in toward each other. So i spaced out the pass. rail and wappap!! IT worked..the bracket goes on with no problem.
However, now i have an issue where the pass. rail is not as "in" as the driver. I guess i'll just find some washers and space out the driver side.
DId anyone have a similar issue and did you also have only two black washers with your hardware kit?
Last edited by obZidian; Feb 16, 2006 at 12:49 AM.






