fuel system pics
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fuel system pics Does anyone here have pictures of their fuel system? I'm looking to upgrade to stainless lines, boost referenced regulator, filter, etc... and need some ideas on plumbing so I can keep things looking neat underneath the hood.
-B
-B
Man that looks fuggin nice dude. Just when I've thought I've seen some clean fuel setups yours takes the cake! You bend those lines yourself and what size are they?
I copied all your pics.
I copied all your pics.
Here ya go....
My old setup....
The FP Reg is sitting on the old feed line that is now being used as the new return line.
The new feed was a -8an braided line into the pass. side rail.....
Here from the rear......
Now my New setup
The 1st setup i bought almost everything from Nate @ Nasty Performance.
Give him a call he will help you out.
Kyle
My old setup....
The FP Reg is sitting on the old feed line that is now being used as the new return line.
The new feed was a -8an braided line into the pass. side rail.....
Here from the rear......
Now my New setup
The 1st setup i bought almost everything from Nate @ Nasty Performance.
Give him a call he will help you out.
Kyle
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Originally Posted by skunkdya
Here ya go. It is an LT1 but you might be able to get an idea. The out of car picture is missing the fuel rails, but you can get the idea.
I have an LT1 and that set up looks great! I already have an aeromotive LT1 AFPR and was told that I can just weld in one 8an fitting on the fuel rail and use the stock fuel return line so that would save me over $250 in fittings, new regulator. Also what size hard line did you use along with the fittings?
Im debating on wether or not I need to run the rails parallel like this set up.
-B
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Kenosha, Wisconsin
Thanks. The system consists of -10 from the tank to the pump and the pump to the fuel splitter (as seen in the first pic). At that point it splits of to two -8 (1/2") hard lines. I welded on two -8 90 degree hardlines onto the front of each rail. Then coming out the back of each rail I welded on two -6 fittings and had hard stainless line (3/8") going to the regulator. Then one -6 braided line back to the tank. The stainless line by the tank is equivalent to a -10 and is 5/8".
This 5/8" stuff is a pain to find and you need to buy a special bender and flaring tool for Stainless. Rigid makes an AWESOME 37 degree flaring tool and a heavy duty bender. If you use aluminum or even steel line, you can use a 45 degee flaring tool (much more common) but with stainless so hard, you will get leaks if you use a 45 instead of 37. Stainless won't form fit to a 37 when the fittings are tightened. BTW. Stainless hardline is not cheap and neither are the tools.
I would run the parallel setup if you are going for high hp #'s. I did this system WAY overkill considering that it is a stock LT1 (the heads were never even opened up). I just wanted to see how clean I could get this setup. I think it worked.
This 5/8" stuff is a pain to find and you need to buy a special bender and flaring tool for Stainless. Rigid makes an AWESOME 37 degree flaring tool and a heavy duty bender. If you use aluminum or even steel line, you can use a 45 degee flaring tool (much more common) but with stainless so hard, you will get leaks if you use a 45 instead of 37. Stainless won't form fit to a 37 when the fittings are tightened. BTW. Stainless hardline is not cheap and neither are the tools.
I would run the parallel setup if you are going for high hp #'s. I did this system WAY overkill considering that it is a stock LT1 (the heads were never even opened up). I just wanted to see how clean I could get this setup. I think it worked.
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On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 106
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From: Kenosha, Wisconsin
There are no Aluminum Lines. They are all Stainless Steel. All the hard lines are all bent with special tools and a special flaring tool from a company called Rigid (home depot sells Rigid tools, but you will need to special order these tools. Make sure to get the 37 degree flaring tools and the heavy duty bender if you do Stainless. I think the flaring tool was 125 and the benders were between $100 - $200 each. I needed to get a 3/8", 1/2", & 5/8".
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Damn thats pricey! I was hoping just use aluminum line because its fairly cheap, where would I go about getting the bending tools for aluminum? Is this what I need?
Tube bender
-B
Tube bender
-B
Last edited by Blown383; Mar 14, 2006 at 11:32 AM.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 106
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From: Kenosha, Wisconsin
You can get a universal bending tool from Autozone for anything up to 3/8" I think. Otherwise swap meets are a great place to find them. Rigid also makes cheaper ones. I just had to get the heavy duty ones for Stainless. Do a search on Google for tubing benders or 1/2" tubing benders.
You can even go with a 45 degree flaring tool with aluminum since when you tighten down the fittings, the aluminum will form fit to the 37 degree. Cheap 45 degree flaring tools are around $25.00. Try Harbor Freight.
You can even go with a 45 degree flaring tool with aluminum since when you tighten down the fittings, the aluminum will form fit to the 37 degree. Cheap 45 degree flaring tools are around $25.00. Try Harbor Freight.
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I'll have pics of my fuel system very soon.... Nasty Performance sumped tank, 10AN feed line, 6AN return line. Fuel labs filters, Fuel Labs 3 port boost referenced regulator, 3/8" ID fuel rails on a single plane manifold, 10AN to 8AN Aeromotive y block with dual 8AN lines feed each rail.... I'll have pics as soon as it's all finished....
Seeing how some setups w/ stk lines run deep in the 9's whats the point in really going w/ larger lines?
I'm just going to run -8 feed and and do an quick disconnect adapter setup for the return using a -6 and call it a day. Just wondering really.........
I'm just going to run -8 feed and and do an quick disconnect adapter setup for the return using a -6 and call it a day. Just wondering really.........
If you're asking me why I went with larger lines well because not saying taht I haven't seen guys with stock lines in the 9's but on MY setup I could barely make 525 RWHP on spray without the air fuel ratio like 14:1 !!!!!! any hotter than that and my forged pistons would have liquefied.... stock lines don't push much volume being so small so no matter how much i cranked pressure the a/f stayed the same.... and by going with bigger lines like 10AN this is a fuel system that can grow with my setup... hell i can put a 572BBC in it and keep this fuel system... And I'm trying to run the first stage of nitrous dry meaning that the DFI is going to do all the enrichment thru my 83lb injectors... that 1st stage is jetted for a 300hp hit.... I don't want to even attempt that with stock lines..... Hence the need for 10AN feed lines.... I've always been told that there are two things that you can never have enough money spent on... one is fuel system, and the other is oil system... those two things will always generally keep your motor alive to race another day...
