I've got a few more pics of the install that I completed tonight (the back half).... I had to buy longer bolts to get the straps to fit and I had to notch the trunk area (see pics) to get the gigantic 12AN 90 degree fitting to fit....

I know some haven't had to do that from the look of the pics but I realize every car is slightly different and my tank might not fit the exact way it does on all cars....

So far I am VERY impressed with the fit and finish of the Nasty Performance stuff. Nate has been very helpful throughout and although a tight fit you can see the R&D that goes into this tank. without the pump and the filters on the side you could probably toss this thing a quarter mile cuz it's THAT light.... So if you buy one of these tanks you probably need 10mmx1.5x100mm bolts.... Those are what I used.... you might get away with shorter ones depending on your straps. And I highly recommend pre bending the straps using a vise beforehand that way they lay down and angle where the tank angles (cause the stock tank is rounded....) enjoy!

 

Looking good! But I have seen pics of this setup a few times and none of them involved having to cut that notch into the t-roof well area

Are ya sure those are the right fittings? Did you talk to Nate before cutting into the car to make sure?

I know I wouldn't go with the setup if I knew I had to hack into the car to make it work...

 

I agree, it definitely does not look right. Are you sure you have it positioned right? I see that the bungs for the pump mounting have changed to the other side, maybe there have been some other design changes. I'm sure Nate will chime in and let you know what's up. I would not have cut out the trunk either.

 

believe me i tried every postition i could think of to include sliding it back but it was a no go.... maybe the only way i could have done it was to modify the straps so that they hold it closer to the front of the car but i'm not totally sure.... this car is being setup for 8's and it will NOT ever see rain so the notching isn't a big deal to me since i was going to have to drill several holes to run wires/lines thru for other components back there.... now i'll just use the notch area.....

 

In order to not cut the t-top area you just have to get the fitting farther in the tank.We just tap the fitting more and almost botton out the fitting in the tank,ussually one tap on the t-top area is needed for clearance but no big deal.Also I would cut the pickup line so it is tighter to the body.

 

Just a crazy idea but couldn't you just use a 90* screw in elbow or tap and weld a fitting on the side on the sump like the Speed Inc tank.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...54690673EOSnix

 

Yeah the side fitting seems like it would work good as well. But Speed Inc is not making tanks anymore... i suppose I could custom order the tank with a side fitting but oh well i gotta work with what I got now.....

Yeah I plan on cutting the feed line down a bit so it'll be closer to the body but I have to see how much I can turn the fitting on the sump.... The clearance is still tight and might not warrant pointing more level to the body...

 

From what i understand CAS made the tanks for Speed Inc. My tank didn't have the fuel pump mounts in the side of the tank. I wonder if that would help keep the pump noise down? Does your tank need the stock fuel straps extended and how much fuel does yours hold?

 

Wow that is the first I have seen of that. Hmmn. Putting the fitting on the side of the sump is not a good Idea it negates the purpose of the sump. I will see if there is a way to shorten something? We try to tuck it as high as possible to fit exhaust and such. we can do the pump mounts on either side.

Nate

 

As 1 tank builder to another,That is nice work on the aluminum tank Nate, thats a tight area to fit a tank into. As for "shorten something" Not sure, but just looking at the pic, it appears that if the pipe fitting welded to the sump is replaced with a AN10 male fitting weld bung, that would bring the fuel line at least 1" closer to the sump by eliminating the adapter. The down side is that ups the cost of fabing the tank.

 

Yes and it eliminates the use of differrent sizes on the feed side. I use -12 in our kit but some people like to use other stuff or already have other line.

Nate

 

Either way Nate I probably could have spent more time possibly trying to screw in the 12AN fitting further into the sump but wanted to avoid possibly stripping the crap out of the threads. like you said it's tapered so once it's tight turn it a tiny bit more and then stop.... Having AN fittings already possibly tig welded into the sump would probably work but like others said that would up the cost of the tank.....

Me having to clearance the trunk area was not a big deal to me. I don't drive the car in the rain. it is NOT my daily driver and I've seen others have to do ALOT more clearancing than this to fit things they want in their car (IE cutting the cowl to clear Single Plane manifold and TB Elbows, cutting holes to run intercooler piping in the firewall, and even cutting holes in the hood to clear turbos or high manifolds.... This was NOT a big deal and certainly no fault of your design.... I look at it this way. Now I have an area I can run wires/lines/etc thru without having to grommet every single hole...


No the stock straps don't need to be extended they just need to be molded on a vise so they are straight and follow the angle of the tank. best way to do it is lay the strap down after you've completely straightened it and mark where it needs to bend. then put it back in the vise and make the bends. the stock tank is rounded and you'll be way short if you just put them back up there the way they were with the stocker...

If you use 10mmx1.5x100mm bolts you'll have plenty of threads to get them to torque down into the brackets up above....

 

Here is a few pics I got but the line goes the other way and we run 2 pumps.On the straps I just used longer bolts.

 

Sweet looks good guys.

 

What size is that blue line!? That cell looks sweet!

 

the blue line is 12AN...... Then the system tapers down to 10AN for the filters and pump and it's 10AN all the way until the y-block... y block splits the 10 into two 8AN's into the fuel rails.... Dual 8's off the front of the rails into the regulator, then it's 6AN all the way back to the tank. I plan on running the lines today....

 

wow i would never do that...

why couldnt you use a tighter elbow?

heck i would of bashed the area in with a hammer before doing that.

nice looking tank thou.