What size wire are you using to power and ground with? i used 8 gauge and ran it directly off the battery in the trunk to power my relay. Then I used the gray wire to actually power the pump when the key is on...I think at least. Its been awhile since ive been under the car.

 

Just be sure when you do either mount it directly behind the sump on the back side of the T-top hole or On the drivers frame rail with a bracket leaving it about 3-4 inches below the sump.. I used MSD rubber isolators to cushion the noise and it was QUIET when powered on.

 

The only problem you will have with the A1000 on your setup that you are trying to build is the pump will make out at about 650-700 rwhp on boosted applications. Id suggest running two of them if its primarily a street car y'd together to a main line. Split them off, and enter the back of the rails. Connect the fronts to each side of the regulator and send it all back down the opposite side as your feed was run to the front/top of the tank as the return line.

 

Andereck is right. Here is easy way to describe what is happening. When fuel is pressurised, it raises the boiling point. When fuel is put in a vacuum (the pump has to pull fuel to it) it lowers the boiling point. So the longer you drive your vehicle the hotter the fuel becomes and the lower the flash point. Fuel is absorbing heat from the rail and carrying it back to the tank. So after 45min of driving you have recirculated almost 70 gals of fuel. If your pump is having to pull fuel to itself, chances are you might run into vapor lock. If you do run into vapor lock then it's an easy fix. But you must first find out the cause of it. Here are several things can cause a pump to vapor lock:

1: impoper tank vent
2: to small of inlet line size
3: wrong inlet filter rating or dirty
4: pump mounted above pickup point
5: fuel getting hot

That's just to name a few.

The ideal way to mount a pump is right behind the pickup point and slightly lower. But sometime this is not possible due to space limitations. Just because a pump is mounted where it has to pull fuel doesn't make it wrong or improper just a different way of doing it. Aeromotive's A1000 is great street pump as I have one with over 40,000 miles on it and still going strong.

Edstrokedta: Check through the list of possible cause and if everything checks out then purchase a speed pump controller. Your problems should go away after that.

 

Good information and its what ive known for a long time now. Just tired of reiterating it all because a sponsor seems to think his mounting point is fine. i dont want to get banned again for proving sponsors wrong.

 

Bird you never just play well with others do you?


Thanks that is good info....So I would need two A1000? Wow... the dual Walbro 255 would be allot cheaper and still work fine with a boost a pump. What do you think? And I still have the question about the right way to sump a 99-02 Fbody tank?

 

Ive never been a fan of the dual intanks because they tend to fight each other sometimes.

No i dont play well with others, especially when I know 100% im in the right.

Id never run a boost a pump. I like the A1000's because i usually score them for $150 with low mileage. To me its well worth every penny then dealing with the headaches involved with dual intank pumps.

I dont know the correct way to sump the plastic tanks. ive heard of people drilling them for -12an bulk heads but i dont know the exact location. I think I stated that already in a previous post in this thread

 

I run the A1000 and billet fuel pump controller.. my pump is mounted underneath my tank but towards the front of the car about a foot away from the sump. I was told that the pump can suck no problem but this is bad as the fuel is put under vacuum on the suction side and will seperatred and boil causing cabvitation and pump overheating. when the fuel got too hot... this amy be what you are seeing? Aeromotive recommends keeping a healthy amount of fuel in the tank to help avoid rapid heat soaking of the fuel. the billet fuel pump controller is pretty simple to mount and wire in.. I never tried it without one so I don't know.. but I have run less then half a tank of fuel for long trips with no ill effects in 98-100* NC summr weather now and have had zero issues.

I pull power from the back of the alternator for maximum voltage at WOT.. the billet fuel pump controller is adjustable to turn the pump on to max voltage with a regulator screw which you just put your foot on the gas in neutral and bring the revs up to desired RPM.. then adjust the screw until the light illuminates.. then drop below the set point and make sure the light goes out and back up to make sure it comes back on and your done.. BIG difference in the sound the pump makes on and off max voltage.. I wouldn't run it on the street without this unit! just my two cents.

the suction line from the tank should also be as large as possible.. I am running -12an that necks down with an adapter at the pre filter. the prefilter also MUST be a stainless steel mesh type element, 100 micron.. the 10 Micron paper filters will create too much of a restriciton too soon which will cause increased flow losses and cause the pump to again boil the fuel. use a 10 micron filter just before the fuel rail for removing fine debris and sediment pre injectors. hope this helps.. I went with a Barry Grant prefilter as the surface area of the filtering mesh element is almost double what the smaller/shorter Aeromotive unit has.

hope some of this helps! so far I am 100% completely satisfied with the performance oft his pump.. plenty of fuel, with the car running I can't hear the pump and I have it hard mounted with aluminum brackets straight to the frame rail.. no issues whatsoever! I may put an isolator on it just to help dampen the pump itself but not for noise!

PS.. ont he vette tank since we do not have the luxury of the Nasty tanks... I drilled and sumped my tank at its lowest point as for toward the back as possible with a -12an bulkhead fitting and used "Seal All" a fuel compatible sealant adhesive on the nylon washers onboth sides.. out tanks have a rubber bladder in them which I was careful to drill very slowly to maintain a round hole.. so far NO leaks to report and a great seal still.. again.. I am probably close to 650-700rwhp on high boost and have had ZERO issues with this setup..

now the dual in tanks I ran had numerous problems.. never again will I go with a dual intank pump setup.. if I need more fuel at this point.. I will go to the next step larger Aeromotive pump which bolts right in oplaces of the current A1000 and let her eat!

hope this helps !

Chris

 

The only problem I have with your post is that you say to keep extra fuel in to keep from heat soaking.

That is crap. Whats the point of having to modify the amount of fuel you keep in a tank to run a badass pump? I ran mine LOW on fuel often with my setup. Never once did I have a cavitation problem. ANother reason why a pump should be gravity fed. Sure your setup may work for you, but I try to run as little fuel as possible for weight reasons...No way in hell im going to race with 1/2 tank of fuel in my car nor should anyone have to. You should be able to fill up and run it almost empty even with a badass aftermarket street/strip setup. Thats my thoughts at least. And my setup did just that.

 

The only problem I have with your post is that your rude, and its unnecessary.

Extra fuel allows for a higher thermal mass so it takes longer to heat up. Extra weight in a gravity fed pump also increases the head pressure to the inlet of the pump, which we've already discusses helps stave off cavitation.

 

You'll get over it.

If its not setup correctly sure I could see it heating up REAL fast....But when its setup correctly the fuel will NEVER cavitate. You can get all technical and bent all you want with me. Bottom line is this...setup it up right, and treat it just like you did a stock unit and you will never have a cavitation issue. Theres no way 15 gallons of gas with a good setup will ever heat up..much less one. These pumps simply dont run that hot when they are correctly installed.

 

allright guys i finally got an incar fuel pressure gauge, and i am loosing pressure at wot. if you cant remember i have a 383 stroker with a d1 procharger @ 12 lbs of boost. my problem was that at wot my a/f goes way high. i think i have narrowed it down to fuel pressure drop. what can cause pressure drop at wot???????

 

Not enough volume.

 

Can you(andereck) explain your self a little bit more do you mean not enough volume coming out of the pump.

 

Pressure is a result of volume. To maintain pressure you have to have an excess of volume over what you are consuming. The excess volume is bled off by the regulator to maintain its pressure setting. When your engine consumes more fuel than the volume required to maintain 58 or so psi in the line, the pressure will drop.
Volume for a pump is controlled by its speed and feed supply. The speed it runs at is determined by the voltage reaching the pump and the load against it. The more pressure a pump is asked to maintain the slower the pump runs. This is why we see flow curves based on pressure and voltage for fuel pumps.

Either you have exceeded the A1000's volume ability with your combination, the inlet feed to the pump is restricted via plumbing, filter or tank ventilation or the voltage supply to the pump is inadequate which includes the ground.

 

all right i understand what you are saying now, but how can i determine which case is my problem. i dont think i have maxed out the a1000, so ibeleive it is one of the other choices. how could i check the voltage supply to the pump under a load? also i have the pump bolted to the pass side of the tank, so the line comes out of the sump and 90's at the corner of the tank and goes straight into a 100 micron filter that is directly bolted to the pump. could my setup be a problem too????

 

also i am running 75 psi fuel pressure. does this sound too high. thanks for your help!!

 

Yes, that is a contributing factor. The flow of the A1000 starts to steeply fall of at higher pressure due to the load on the pump and the fact that it has a tiny internal bypass valve that is bleeding off a small portion of the volume.

My recommendation would be to reprogram your ecu for less fuel pressure assuming your injectors are large enough. Then set your regulator for 58 psi. This will be easier on the pump and allow it to move more volume. Maybe as much as 20% more fuel.

The formula for injector flow rate change is:

((NewPress/OldPress)SQRT)*OldFlowRate

 

ok thanks i will try that and let you know what happens.

 

well unfortunatley that did not solve my problem. changed pressure to 58 psi and reprogrammed the pcm but still same problem. my setup made 450rwh all motor. now it has a procharger with 12 lbs. is it possible i have maxed out the pump??? i did not think so, but now i am starting to wonder. any ideas?