My twin Walbro's/01 T/A, Pics and schizz
#41
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I know this thread is old but I have a question?
If you were getting so much fuel that you had to drop the base pressure on the FPR to 50psi, and you are still running rich, then wouldn't NOT boost referencing the FPR been better/easier? You figure that you adjusted the base pressure to 50psi and with an extra 15psi when boost referenced that equals 65psi.
You were at 62psi stock and if you're still pig rich now with 65psi, you would probably have just been fine with stock pressure the whole time.
BTW, can you adjust the FPR to run 65psi base pressure??
Off topic:
1. What are the cons to running this same system but with the stock feed as the feed and the stock evap line as the return?
2. How much rwhp would this support? I'm looking for 725-750. Is that possible on just pump 93 on a 9:1 compression 347? What about with a 50/50 water/meth added?
If you were getting so much fuel that you had to drop the base pressure on the FPR to 50psi, and you are still running rich, then wouldn't NOT boost referencing the FPR been better/easier? You figure that you adjusted the base pressure to 50psi and with an extra 15psi when boost referenced that equals 65psi.
You were at 62psi stock and if you're still pig rich now with 65psi, you would probably have just been fine with stock pressure the whole time.
BTW, can you adjust the FPR to run 65psi base pressure??
Off topic:
1. What are the cons to running this same system but with the stock feed as the feed and the stock evap line as the return?
2. How much rwhp would this support? I'm looking for 725-750. Is that possible on just pump 93 on a 9:1 compression 347? What about with a 50/50 water/meth added?
#42
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Originally Posted by SStolen
I know this thread is old but I have a question?
If you were getting so much fuel that you had to drop the base pressure on the FPR to 50psi, and you are still running rich, then wouldn't NOT boost referencing the FPR been better/easier? You figure that you adjusted the base pressure to 50psi and with an extra 15psi when boost referenced that equals 65psi.
You were at 62psi stock and if you're still pig rich now with 65psi, you would probably have just been fine with stock pressure the whole time.
BTW, can you adjust the FPR to run 65psi base pressure??
Off topic:
1. What are the cons to running this same system but with the stock feed as the feed and the stock evap line as the return?
2. How much rwhp would this support? I'm looking for 725-750. Is that possible on just pump 93 on a 9:1 compression 347? What about with a 50/50 water/meth added?
If you were getting so much fuel that you had to drop the base pressure on the FPR to 50psi, and you are still running rich, then wouldn't NOT boost referencing the FPR been better/easier? You figure that you adjusted the base pressure to 50psi and with an extra 15psi when boost referenced that equals 65psi.
You were at 62psi stock and if you're still pig rich now with 65psi, you would probably have just been fine with stock pressure the whole time.
BTW, can you adjust the FPR to run 65psi base pressure??
Off topic:
1. What are the cons to running this same system but with the stock feed as the feed and the stock evap line as the return?
2. How much rwhp would this support? I'm looking for 725-750. Is that possible on just pump 93 on a 9:1 compression 347? What about with a 50/50 water/meth added?
It was overly fat because at the time, it was running a tune done by a shop and the IFR table was not correct. Don't forget, the boost referenced setup raises fuel pressure to compensate for the positive pressure in the manifold that seeks to "push back" on the injector's output.
1. I don't know
2. Mine made like 600rwhp at 10psi and I have had it up to 18.5 psi on good gas and meth, and it runs 15.5psi on pump and meth regularly so....
#43
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Let's be generous and say you are making 350rwhp on your forged 347 without the turbo kit. If you made 600rwhp on 10psi, that would put you at making 25rwhp per pound of boost. 15.5 x 25 = 388 + 350 = approximately 740rwhp. Dynojet I'm assuming? Thats not bad for stock cubes, pump 93 and meth.
You first post says forged everything. Even the crank? If you went aftermarket, why didn't you make it a stroker? It wouldn't have cost you any more money and it's not like you're revving the crap out of a turbo car. I know stroker's tend to put more stress on the rods but it's not like you're revving the motor to 7 grand with a turbo kit. Right?
You first post says forged everything. Even the crank? If you went aftermarket, why didn't you make it a stroker? It wouldn't have cost you any more money and it's not like you're revving the crap out of a turbo car. I know stroker's tend to put more stress on the rods but it's not like you're revving the motor to 7 grand with a turbo kit. Right?
#44
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Originally Posted by SStolen
Let's be generous and say you are making 350rwhp on your forged 347 without the turbo kit. If you made 600rwhp on 10psi, that would put you at making 25rwhp per pound of boost. 15.5 x 25 = 388 + 350 = approximately 740rwhp. Dynojet I'm assuming? Thats not bad for stock cubes, pump 93 and meth.
You first post says forged everything. Even the crank? If you went aftermarket, why didn't you make it a stroker? It wouldn't have cost you any more money and it's not like you're revving the crap out of a turbo car. I know stroker's tend to put more stress on the rods but it's not like you're revving the motor to 7 grand with a turbo kit. Right?
You first post says forged everything. Even the crank? If you went aftermarket, why didn't you make it a stroker? It wouldn't have cost you any more money and it's not like you're revving the crap out of a turbo car. I know stroker's tend to put more stress on the rods but it's not like you're revving the motor to 7 grand with a turbo kit. Right?
The factory crank is a forged crank... Look at the compressor map for similar turbo's... It's a t4 housing also. It has the potential to make more on stock inches than a stroker, and with a stroker comes backpressure problems too. It's a matched combo. FWIW I hope it'd do 360ish off the snail with the ls6 intake, heads, and cam.... Yes those were dynojet numbers as well.
#46
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cool writeup. what regulator do you have? got some pics of that part of your system?
you should include that in the price ( or atleast add an * cause people might get the idea that the pump and wiring is all they'd have to do.
is the boost referenced added press adj. too? if I remember right you want to add the same amount of fuel press, as the boost press correct to ~ equal out?
where did you get the hobbs switch and the nice relay kit from?
chris
you should include that in the price ( or atleast add an * cause people might get the idea that the pump and wiring is all they'd have to do.
is the boost referenced added press adj. too? if I remember right you want to add the same amount of fuel press, as the boost press correct to ~ equal out?
where did you get the hobbs switch and the nice relay kit from?
chris
#48
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Originally Posted by Irocss85
cool writeup. what regulator do you have? got some pics of that part of your system?
you should include that in the price ( or atleast add an * cause people might get the idea that the pump and wiring is all they'd have to do.
is the boost referenced added press adj. too? if I remember right you want to add the same amount of fuel press, as the boost press correct to ~ equal out?
where did you get the hobbs switch and the nice relay kit from?
chris
you should include that in the price ( or atleast add an * cause people might get the idea that the pump and wiring is all they'd have to do.
is the boost referenced added press adj. too? if I remember right you want to add the same amount of fuel press, as the boost press correct to ~ equal out?
where did you get the hobbs switch and the nice relay kit from?
chris
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#51
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Originally Posted by Irocss85
cool writeup. what regulator do you have? got some pics of that part of your system?
you should include that in the price ( or atleast add an * cause people might get the idea that the pump and wiring is all they'd have to do.
is the boost referenced added press adj. too? if I remember right you want to add the same amount of fuel press, as the boost press correct to ~ equal out?
where did you get the hobbs switch and the nice relay kit from?
chris
you should include that in the price ( or atleast add an * cause people might get the idea that the pump and wiring is all they'd have to do.
is the boost referenced added press adj. too? if I remember right you want to add the same amount of fuel press, as the boost press correct to ~ equal out?
where did you get the hobbs switch and the nice relay kit from?
chris
The regulator came from Speed Inc (ls1speed.com) but they sell a slightly different regulator now. here is what it looks like though:
![](http://www.lsxtune.com/images/fr3.jpg)
#52
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Originally Posted by Irocss85
and how iexactly do you have the return side hooked up? I see your using the stock steel pipe to get to the back, but how does it get into the tank if your using the stock feed line FROM the pump, to the fuel filter, to the -6line the rest of the way?
#53
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nah, Im not sensitive. dont sweat it. but you got it wrong. I actually didnt look at the pics ENOUGH cause I could have figured where my thinking was wrong if I had.
well my thought was that since there was no return line at the fuel rail (stock) that there wasnt a return fitting in the sending unit. but now I see that yours does have a return pipe/goin into the sending unit. thinking now, isnt there a "T" behind the fuel filter, and you just ran -6 fuel line all the way back to that from the regulator? and then the other leg of the T from the pump into another -6 line to feed the fuel rails up front? think I got it figured out now.
chris
well my thought was that since there was no return line at the fuel rail (stock) that there wasnt a return fitting in the sending unit. but now I see that yours does have a return pipe/goin into the sending unit. thinking now, isnt there a "T" behind the fuel filter, and you just ran -6 fuel line all the way back to that from the regulator? and then the other leg of the T from the pump into another -6 line to feed the fuel rails up front? think I got it figured out now.
chris
Originally Posted by Frost
The parts list is very short... a few tiny hose clamps, about 10" of #6 line, the pump, a T-fitting with 3 barbed sides from Lowes, the relay (came with the long power lead to run to the pump), the Hobbs pressure switch, some black wire loom/covering.
#54
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Originally Posted by Irocss85
.... but now I see that yours does have a return pipe/goin into the sending unit. thinking now, isnt there a "T" behind the fuel filter, and you just ran -6 fuel line all the way back to that from the regulator? and then the other leg of the T from the pump into another -6 line to feed the fuel rails up front? think I got it figured out now.
chris
chris
I thought I would be redoing it nearly immeadiately after I got home, but to my suprise, even with the stock line in there, the boost as steadily gone up and the pressure has been solid. Right after I did this, I went to dyno but got cut short with belt problems. On it's first pull though it made 590 at 10psi at a waaaaayyyy fat 10.0 to 10.3:1. It hasn't been back on the dyno, but it's running 2-3 more degrees of timing and the A/F is 11:0:1 on meth. I run 16psi on pump and meth. This is the everyday setting. I have had it up to 18.5 psi on good gas. I don't know what it is making up there but it feels crazy strong. I am really, really suprised that the stock line lasted that far.