My twin Walbro's/01 T/A, Pics and schizz
#1
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My setup is as follows:
Stock-inch LS1, fully forged
Comp Cams 228/228 115LSA
TEA stg 2.5 heads
LS6 intake
PTK / PTS Front-mount 76GTS turbo
My fuel system was a Racetronix in-tank pump (Walbro) and wiring harness
Nasty Nate rails
#6 feed line with stock line for the return
60lb injectors
front mount fuel pressure regulator, boost referenced
MSD Pump booster
Julio's Alkycontrol Meth kit
At 12.5 PSI I was struggling to keep the wideband south of 11.0:1 with drastically falling fuel pressure AND meth, so it was time to make a change since I am looking for about 15-16psi on pump and meth. Looking at where the MAF maxes out in the logs I'd guess I'm somewhere just north of 600RWHP, but I haven't dyno'd the car, so I don't know exactly.
I ordered (among other things) the extra pump, relay/hotwire kit, hobbs switch, and the other small pieces from Bob and Jake at EPP (Great people!). Here's what it looks like:
Opened the trap-door
back up and pulled the bucket
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/01.jpg)
Since the bucket principle is out the window at this point, I cut the bucket up a bit at the bottom to allow fuel access. Keep in mind with this that you can't run the tank empty anymore, as your primary pump needs to stay submersed for cooling.
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/02.jpg)
EPP sent me the "union" (don't know what it's called) that looks like a shower head. They do this regularly and are good at it. I (and my friends) could NOT figure out how to fit that thing in there even with some of the barbs cut off as shown. I opted for a T fitting that is also shown. It's true it's not ideal for flow, but it hands down worked for me.
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/03.jpg)
Inner bucket is cut to allow the second pump, and strapped to the racetronix pump beside it. The lines are 6an internal and clamped to my smaller T-fitting
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/04.jpg)
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/05.jpg)
What the heck, a few more holes can't hurt on the other side:
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/06.jpg)
Holes for the wires, soon to be JBquickWeld sealed:
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/07.jpg)
Laying out the new pump relay which is triggered under boost via Hobbs pressure switch:
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/08.jpg)
...and lastly, things are back together:
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/09.jpg)
Stock-inch LS1, fully forged
Comp Cams 228/228 115LSA
TEA stg 2.5 heads
LS6 intake
PTK / PTS Front-mount 76GTS turbo
My fuel system was a Racetronix in-tank pump (Walbro) and wiring harness
Nasty Nate rails
#6 feed line with stock line for the return
60lb injectors
front mount fuel pressure regulator, boost referenced
MSD Pump booster
Julio's Alkycontrol Meth kit
At 12.5 PSI I was struggling to keep the wideband south of 11.0:1 with drastically falling fuel pressure AND meth, so it was time to make a change since I am looking for about 15-16psi on pump and meth. Looking at where the MAF maxes out in the logs I'd guess I'm somewhere just north of 600RWHP, but I haven't dyno'd the car, so I don't know exactly.
I ordered (among other things) the extra pump, relay/hotwire kit, hobbs switch, and the other small pieces from Bob and Jake at EPP (Great people!). Here's what it looks like:
Opened the trap-door
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/01.jpg)
Since the bucket principle is out the window at this point, I cut the bucket up a bit at the bottom to allow fuel access. Keep in mind with this that you can't run the tank empty anymore, as your primary pump needs to stay submersed for cooling.
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/02.jpg)
EPP sent me the "union" (don't know what it's called) that looks like a shower head. They do this regularly and are good at it. I (and my friends) could NOT figure out how to fit that thing in there even with some of the barbs cut off as shown. I opted for a T fitting that is also shown. It's true it's not ideal for flow, but it hands down worked for me.
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/03.jpg)
Inner bucket is cut to allow the second pump, and strapped to the racetronix pump beside it. The lines are 6an internal and clamped to my smaller T-fitting
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/04.jpg)
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/05.jpg)
What the heck, a few more holes can't hurt on the other side:
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/06.jpg)
Holes for the wires, soon to be JBquickWeld sealed:
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/07.jpg)
Laying out the new pump relay which is triggered under boost via Hobbs pressure switch:
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/08.jpg)
...and lastly, things are back together:
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/09.jpg)
![](http://www.frozenwaste.com/Frost/RPM/pics/web/010.jpg)
Last edited by Frost; 09-19-2007 at 11:30 PM.
#2
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Before this, my fuel pressure plummetted into the high 30s, now it's rock solid in the mid low 70s (boost referenced)...... I may lower base pressure to 50 lbs or somewhere near that so it doesn't swing so high...
Like I said, that T isn't ideal, but I am at 13.5psi now and am still seriously overfueling the engine at WOT with NO dip in pressure.
Like I said, that T isn't ideal, but I am at 13.5psi now and am still seriously overfueling the engine at WOT with NO dip in pressure.
Last edited by Frost; 09-19-2007 at 11:28 PM. Reason: clarity
#3
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awesome work frost! So already having the Racetronix set up, how much more did it cost to upgrade to the twin pumps?
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#6
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Originally Posted by ss1
I noticed you didn't run the #6 line to a bulkhead fitting in the tank, and I didn't see the braided line in any of your pics. Did you just adapt it to the stock line at some point?
There is about 2-3 feet of factory line from the bucket to the filter. If I have issues it will be the next thing changed. I just kept reading about good results with 1-2 pumps and factory lines so I figured what the hell. Judging by how much fuel I've pulled out of the tune, I'd say that this should work fine even at the 700RWHP (dynojet M6 numbers) level and some point beyond.
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#8
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yea, i'm interested as well. I mean.... why spend $230 on a boost a pump when you can spend around $200 like you say and have a way more stable set up? Thats cheaper than i thought and i may have to do it now! Cool stuff
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#9
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Originally Posted by Superman09
yea, i'm interested as well. I mean.... why spend $230 on a boost a pump when you can spend around $200 like you say and have a way more stable set up? Thats cheaper than i thought and i may have to do it now! Cool stuff
#10
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Originally Posted by 2002/Black/SS
the real question here is if its worth it to kill the bucket vacuum system, how bad would it really be to have ur tank lower then a quarter??? cause i always forget to fill up! what if i attached the pump to the outside of the bucket???
The parts list is very short... a few tiny hose clamps, about 10" of #6 line, the pump, a T-fitting with 3 barbed sides from Lowes, the relay (came with the long power lead to run to the pump), the Hobbs pressure switch, some black wire loom/covering.
#11
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You know the more I look at your setup, I need to ask something. Is it even possible to put a 90 degree bulkhead where the stock lines attach? There really isn't too much room for a bulkehead fitting to go there. If not, where would you put it. All of the setups i've seen with the bulkhead installed are in the 98 metal tank.
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Thanks for posting up. I'm going to be installing a racetronix kit over the holidays, and seeing your picture of the "trapdoor" made me decide how I was going to do my install. Pulled the tank on a friends last time, and I won't be doing that again.
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#15
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The problem with your design is you are going from two -6 to 1 -6 tube. This is going to be very restrictive. The way we did it was two -8 barbed reducers to -6 to a -8 Tee and -8 bulkhead out the top. But this required moving one of the sensors slightligh except it allows for all that new fuel to move better. Very similar design though. If i can get some pics i will post them up.
#16
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Originally Posted by mturco
The problem with your design is you are going from two -6 to 1 -6 tube. This is going to be very restrictive. The way we did it was two -8 barbed reducers to -6 to a -8 Tee and -8 bulkhead out the top. But this required moving one of the sensors slightligh except it allows for all that new fuel to move better. Very similar design though. If i can get some pics i will post them up.
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Originally Posted by ss1
You know the more I look at your setup, I need to ask something. Is it even possible to put a 90 degree bulkhead where the stock lines attach? There really isn't too much room for a bulkehead fitting to go there. If not, where would you put it. All of the setups i've seen with the bulkhead installed are in the 98 metal tank.
#18
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Originally Posted by Jake@EPP
Its possible to run a 90deg bulkhead, it has to be a TIGHT 90deg due to size constraints but it will allow you to run -8 from the tank for a twin in tank that can support 700+
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That's slick Frost. DIY.
I did a Walbro on my 94 z28 which is now my brother's, and now I'm thinking of how to do a dual in tank in my 99 vette. I'm thinking that to keep the bucket I might just make a new bucket out of some galvanized sheet metal. How hard can it be, as long as gasoline doesn't eat RTV.
I did a Walbro on my 94 z28 which is now my brother's, and now I'm thinking of how to do a dual in tank in my 99 vette. I'm thinking that to keep the bucket I might just make a new bucket out of some galvanized sheet metal. How hard can it be, as long as gasoline doesn't eat RTV.
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Originally Posted by Learnhead
That's slick Frost. DIY.
I did a Walbro on my 94 z28 which is now my brother's, and now I'm thinking of how to do a dual in tank in my 99 vette. I'm thinking that to keep the bucket I might just make a new bucket out of some galvanized sheet metal. How hard can it be, as long as gasoline doesn't eat RTV.
I did a Walbro on my 94 z28 which is now my brother's, and now I'm thinking of how to do a dual in tank in my 99 vette. I'm thinking that to keep the bucket I might just make a new bucket out of some galvanized sheet metal. How hard can it be, as long as gasoline doesn't eat RTV.