BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

I hear this a lot on here that folks are concerned with gas mileage and don’t want a big cam lope. Then they spend big money on the best heads, intakes, etc. Then brag about the low end torque and smooth idle.

So I’m curious why not buy a magnuson 2300 or similar complete blower kit for the same or barely more money? Then you can keep the stock cam and make 750 plus rwhp and torque with ease. Stock or better gas mileage on the highway and all the low end torque you could ever want.

Kawboom

That Magnuson... It's a bit expensive.

Personally I chalk up all of the complaints about torque, smooth idle and cam lope to either Daily Driver Syndrome, where you have to drive the car as a primary means of conveyance, or Old Man Syndrome which should be self evident.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

Have you seen how much guys are spending on heads, ported fast intakes, aftermarket rockers, and link bar lifters?

Add it all up and it’s blower kit money.

Kawboom

The blower kit is like $8000.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

$3500 heads
$1500 ported fast and throttle body
$750 aftermarket rockers
$750 link bar rockers
$350 cam

You’re already most of the way to blower money and don’t have all the parts yet.

MuhThugga

Not everyone wants a supercharged engine.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

Thats understandable but what I don’t understand is those people that say they don’t want cam lope and care about gas mileage but want more power. Nothing is better at fitting those goals than a blower. Even the most expensive well matched heads/cam combo can’t make nearly the power a blower can while still driving like a stock car with good gas mileage.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

Some people are afraid of the smog *****. Others are afraid of idling a lumpy cam. My 227/234 idles with a bit of lope but it's manageable in a cruise lane or parking lot. I think it's less likely to stall than the stock cam with stock tune.

LS1 TJ

My question is what "stock" LS engine platform you can add a Maggie and get 750 RWHP?
But what about the extra stuff you need with 750 RWHP like a better trans, rear end and other heavy duty stuff.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

F magnum, S60, dual clutch, blower and you're 16K in the hole.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

Poor argument in my opinion. No one says you have to make 750 rwhp you are just capable of it with the change of a pulley.

Let's say your heads and cam combo makes an insane 500 rwhp and 475 rwtq. You can pulley the magnuson to make 500 rwhp 500 rwtq with ease and have more on tap with a pulley change any time you want. If you ever want more out of your heads and cam combo and want to stay NA then you're looking at big money to build a stroker.

You can also go cheaper and buy a smaller blower than the 2300. You can get a cheap LSA combo and make over 600 with ease. No heads/cam combo with no lope is going to make that power for cheaper.

I understand why people do different things and love that everyone can build the car to their tastes as that is what we all love about this hobby. My point in this post is to check and see if some of these folks spending $8000 on the best heads, cam, full bolt on combo that can be bought have even considered just slapping a blower on it instead.

I've had a 224/224 cam with AFR heads many years ago. It was nice, but didn't have enough power for me. I also had a 228/228 cam only that made the same power as the 224/224 AFR head combo and drove just fine as a daily. That made me think...hmm...same power $2500 cheaper without the AFR heads. I also had a 408 with AFR heads and a 242/250 cam. I liked that alot and daily drove it so I knew I have no issues with my tuning and a big cam as far as streetability. I still wanted more so I put nitrous on it.

With my current car I wanted even more so I slapped a procharger on it and took it up to 650 rwhp before I decided to sell the short block and build a forged rods/pistons shortblock so I could really start pushing it.

If I could afford to build a perfectly streetable all motor LS that makes 800 rwhp through an auto I'd do it, but I can't. I can afford to make 1200 rwhp with a procharger through an auto though

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

5.0 COYOTE is what comes to mind....... big cylinder head flow, no lope, good power and tq and decent fuel mileage. Impressive engine and the main advantage is cylinder head flow and valve train stability.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

You can go as fast as your pockets will let you. Unfortuanetely my pockets have been pretty empty due to the high cost of living these days. Everything just keeps getting more and more expensive. I was looking at some Weld S77's for the rear with beadlocks and they're like $1,700 each. A set of those with runners and tires will be upwards of 6K and it won't make you any faster. If I ever get up that kind of money the 01's getting a ProCharger. There's been too much invested in the car to move over to turbocharging.

I can see it now... 1000+ from an LSX427 with an F1A on 93 octane.. It has a dragonslayer crank and not sure if I'd chance it with Compstar rods. Although I'd be plenty happy with around 900 rwhp but then I'd want the ultimate and for me thats a Heidts IRS under the car and better brakes of course.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

I understand you are always better than me and need to show me up that is ok. What you are missing here is I basically estimated low on the parts of a specific build in a thread here, but started my own thread to discuss the topic rather than **** on their thread after they intentionally ignored my post asking about the cost of the package. The heads and intake on that combo I'm quoting were probably much more than what I estimated. Those particular heads recommend aftermarket rockers as well. I'm sorry you missed the intent and instead felt the need to tell me how you could do it better for cheaper. I've made several trips to the track this year and done very well, but I understand some people like to talk about how great their build is using unquantifiable things rather than directly comparable measurables like track times.

I also used the magnuson as an option because most of the type of people that do this type of heads/cam build then talk about how much they valued low rpm off idle torque which is what the magnuson is best at. That is why I didn't mention a turbo or procharger because the type of folks that typically do the small cam with uber nice heads/intake ported by the best guy in the business often brag the benefit is not only 500 rwhp NA, but the low rpm torque. Nothing against the guy doing these builds he's ultra talented and I would love to have him do my heads and intake on my next procharged build upcoming with an f1x, but I'm on a budget.

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

You will be fine at 1000 rwhp with the compstars. I'm at 1000 rwhp through an auto with k1 rods LOL. The procharger is easier on rods and everything else because of the linear power delivery. I make 1000 rwhp with a 377 ls3 with a stock crank and mains in it. I think that is another thing some members that don't frequent the track recently haven't seen that you don't need to overbuild these motors for 1000 rwhp if you have a decent tuner.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

That's comforting to know the Compstars can handle 1000 rwhp.. I'll certainly need to get the compression down some in order to throw more at it.

In Pat G We Trust...

BCNUL8R

iTrader: (2)

A couple things to consider as well you are a manual trans, right? If so, then of course you need less out of the motor to make 1000 rwhp than I do with an auto. It's too much torque at too low of rpm that puts more stress on the rods than 1000 rwhp at 7200 rpm.

I wish I could afford an LME 427 with those heads. I'm still running stock cathedral port heads and stock throttle body on a ls3 block lol. I'll be stuck using a good block and building it myself with decent budget friendly parts to get to 1200-1300 rwhp.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

well I didn’t mean it like you took it. I’m not better than you. Your car is definitely much faster than mine and you are better with money than I am. Guess maybe I came off the wrong way. So let me clarify.

my point is you can do heads and cam and make decent power. Not boosted levels of power, but with big cylinder head flow, you can make some pretty good reliable power. I’ve always been under the notion that you can substitute big cylinder head flow for a large camshaft without trading driving manners….but not the other way around.
believe you me, I agree with you on having a blower or turbo vs having cam and heads…kind of as evidenced by what we did with my sons truck. It’s a daily and it’s pretty much an all stock engine with the addition of a turbo. He’s beat a new 5.0 and a ram TRX (5-6 car lengths) so far on about 10psi boost. Anyways, if I came off the wrong way, I do apologize. No excuses, but I’ve had a really rough week at work.

grubinski

I spent blower money on my engine, and am about to do it again.

I don’t want the weight of the blower and drive over the front axle of my Miata, and it probably wouldn’t fit under the hood anyway.

DualQuadDave

iTrader: (6)

Blower/Turbo motors are a different animal and turbo's win almost every time. Yeah, the blower cost vs. h/c/i cost is comparable, but then you add in the fuel system, more tuning, **** I broke something, etc. The H/C/I is prevalent for a reason, because for most, it works and it's reliable. Sure, can you take stock crap and slap boost/E85 on it and make a # for a while, absolutely. It's been so many times, it's a natural. But then, **** breaks...and you have to upgrade...and more...etc. It's all about goal. If you want to go 9's and drive it, boost. If you are happy with 10's and daily it, motor. It's all about tolerance. Like Grubinski said, the weight of the blower set up is a thing. If it's a do it all car, slapping another 100+lbs on the front is stupid to make 500whp. Look at Jayyyyw for example. He's an honest 730whp motor and running 1000whp boost cars and staying with them. The weight/drag/loss/powerband adds up. It's all about getting there first.