Belt driven fuel pump
Phil,
The cold startup is working well and as soon as it sees any fuel pressure it will try to start. I might crank on it 10 seconds when it's cold before it will try to start and it's 45-50 degree's in my garage. I am not using a gear reduction style starter in an effort to keep the cranking rpms higher also. I am having issues now with the restart tune once the engine has a little heat in it. Trying to work through it as the EFI is all new to me.
J.
The cold startup is working well and as soon as it sees any fuel pressure it will try to start. I might crank on it 10 seconds when it's cold before it will try to start and it's 45-50 degree's in my garage. I am not using a gear reduction style starter in an effort to keep the cranking rpms higher also. I am having issues now with the restart tune once the engine has a little heat in it. Trying to work through it as the EFI is all new to me.
J.
belt driven!! Multiple reasons. Mainly because I dont want to have to worry about my fuel system later on if I turn the boost up. Also I hate loud pumps, and am tired of having them burn up, pop fuses, etc etc. I can run a belt driven pump for a few bucks more initially and never have to worry about the noise, having it burn up or anything. Only problems would be possible belt being thrown and initial starting if the car sits for a few weeks.
This is going in a tubbed out '73 Datsun with a turbo LS1, glide.
This is going in a tubbed out '73 Datsun with a turbo LS1, glide.
I just got my Aeromotive pump and I came up with an interesting mounting idea.
Since the LSx engines don't have mounting holes where the pump needs to go, on the block, I needed to come up with an easy to fabricate solution.
I mocked up an a/c bracket off a 6.0 truck application which mounts low on the passenger side of the engine.
As it turns out, the two bolts on the front of the a/c bracket for the factory belt tensioner line up perfectly with the Aeromotive pump bracket.
All I need to do is clearance the bracket to clear my conversion motor mounts and space the pump out as needed.
I will try to post up some pics this weekend.
Since the LSx engines don't have mounting holes where the pump needs to go, on the block, I needed to come up with an easy to fabricate solution.
I mocked up an a/c bracket off a 6.0 truck application which mounts low on the passenger side of the engine.
As it turns out, the two bolts on the front of the a/c bracket for the factory belt tensioner line up perfectly with the Aeromotive pump bracket.
All I need to do is clearance the bracket to clear my conversion motor mounts and space the pump out as needed.
I will try to post up some pics this weekend.
Ok, here is what I have done so far in about 20 minutes.
I had to trim the truck a/c compressor bracket to clear the Ats engine mount plates and also the frame.
The Aeromotive pump bracket lines up perfectly with the two threaded bolt
holes on the front of the a/c compressor bracket.
I may need to make adjustments to allow for more belt tension adjustment,
but I could add an idler pretty easy if needed.
I need to have the center of the mandrel turned down a little to slip inside the ATI balancer, and I will need to make some spacers to move the pump about two inches further forward to create more room for the fuel lines.
I think this is a good start considering how little time it took to do this.
This was the only mounting solution I could think of that allowed me to mount the pump low enough to ensure good priming on the street.
Let me know what you think!
I had to trim the truck a/c compressor bracket to clear the Ats engine mount plates and also the frame.
The Aeromotive pump bracket lines up perfectly with the two threaded bolt
holes on the front of the a/c compressor bracket.
I may need to make adjustments to allow for more belt tension adjustment,
but I could add an idler pretty easy if needed.
I need to have the center of the mandrel turned down a little to slip inside the ATI balancer, and I will need to make some spacers to move the pump about two inches further forward to create more room for the fuel lines.
I think this is a good start considering how little time it took to do this.
This was the only mounting solution I could think of that allowed me to mount the pump low enough to ensure good priming on the street.
Let me know what you think!
I picked up the pump used, but I will try to get the part numbers from Aeromotive today.
Basically, this is the standard #11105 belt pump, with their Big Block Chevy specific mounting bracket and drive mandrel.
The #17140 universal pump kit includes a straight style mounting bracket which will not work with my setup.
The mandrel will have to be turned down a bit to fit inside the balancer.
Edit...
The current #17140 pump kits are now built using this style bracket, per Aeromotive.
Basically, this is the standard #11105 belt pump, with their Big Block Chevy specific mounting bracket and drive mandrel.
The #17140 universal pump kit includes a straight style mounting bracket which will not work with my setup.
The mandrel will have to be turned down a bit to fit inside the balancer.
Edit...
The current #17140 pump kits are now built using this style bracket, per Aeromotive.
Last edited by camarols1; Jan 7, 2008 at 11:03 AM.
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Any updates on this? Im looking to do the same with my project. Im doing it for the same reasons as camarols1. If it is as streetable as Aeromotive claims, and I can find a place to mount it, I will probally got for it.
Ron
Ron
I have mount that will bolt to either the front of the alternator bracket is you are running a f-body setup, or to the block if using a vette setup. i had it on my car and it worked great.
if you look at the design of the pulley, its pretty tough for the belt to fly off, and theres alot less to go wrong on a BD pump.
rear mounted. The pump is mounted lower than the cell and I am running -12 to the pump so there should not be any issues. I have researched a bit and people only run into problems when they start getting into the 1.1 60' range. I don't think I will ever be seeing that...lol.