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DIY twin pumps on the quick and cheap

Old 03-07-2008, 11:51 AM
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bigbird, i disagree

i have read / seen how to build an ls engine on here, i still choose not to and let the pro's (sponsors) handle it. this is the exact same thing.. you could pay a sponsor to change your oil too..

DTK, if you leave the stock regulator in the tank you cannot lower pressure, only raise it, and raising fuel pressure will hurt pump flow. raising fuel pressure helps injector flow
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Old 03-07-2008, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE View Post
bigbird, i disagree

i have read / seen how to build an ls engine on here, i still choose not to and let the pro's (sponsors) handle it. this is the exact same thing.. you could pay a sponsor to change your oil too..

DTK, if you leave the stock regulator in the tank you cannot lower pressure, only raise it, and raising fuel pressure will hurt pump flow. raising fuel pressure helps injector flow
true, but fuel system is like a 4-5 on the hard to do scale. and the build a motor is like 8-10. so you right. but most mechanicly incline people could do this fule system.
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Old 03-07-2008, 06:09 PM
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to help answer questions, i run my second pump on a hobbs switch and a 100% stock fuel system. works pretty well. i just did another one for a customer today
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Old 03-07-2008, 06:15 PM
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MIGHTYMOUSE, All I have to say is you are one innovative person. Your write ups should be sticky's. I save them on my favorites to go back to. Great work
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Old 11-07-2011, 05:50 PM
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Default DIY twin pumps on the quick and cheap

I get questioned on my set up very often and it has been around a long time. I had the opportunity to do a set up for a friend and thought I would put together a 2008 version of my 2003 twin in tanks (98 tank). My original fuel system can be found HERE AND the fuel system on my car today can be found HEREand HERE

1. Run a fresh fused power wire front to back on the car for the second pump.

2. (Not shown) Select a relay location for the second pump. This car got one near the passenger kick panel; This location is roomy and close to whatever we choose to trigger the pump.
3. Get a nice clean ground for the second pump.

4. Cut the hole (hole was all ready cut for me in this case) and snag out the sending unit. You could also drop the tank. (98's are a PITA)

5. Assemble your Y block for the pumps. These parts are from a place that sounds like Foam D-poe and total about $10. I have never liked the 'brass T' versions. something like this clearly has more appropriate geometry.

6. Drill a hole and install a grommet; Run fresh power and ground wires through and once in place follow w/ some GOOP to seal.

7. Install pumps, these are GSS340 255lph high pressure same as what is in my car purchased from NEW ERA for $98 each
8. Solder and heatshrink connections to the pumps

9. Secure pumps to the bracket, use some hose between them to dampen vibration
10. Install the fuel injection rated 5/16 hose and secure with clamps. I prefer these type as the worm gear type can chew up the hose. I also put a dab of loctite on the threads for good measure.

11. Prepare to install, make sure area is clean. I reccomend unhooking the level sensor from the bracket, dropping the pumps in first, then dipping the float into the tank and reinstalling the sensor to the bracket. Don't drop the little lock!

12. When you have the pump socks over the ledge inside the tank everything should fall into place nicely. hook up the pumps and test em out! I cut the harness to remove from the car, use a good insulated connector to make the connections.


This was a @ $250 mod in total.
With a larger pressure line and fuel rails these same two pumps can fuel 1200hp, are quiet as stock, dependable as stock, and you can run the tank down as low on Empty as stock.
As installed here, I expect it to handle 800hp comfortably.
For TRIPLE pumps, check the link at the top of the post!
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