BlackDuk98

iTrader: (34)

Hi. I have been trying to find a service manual, disassembly guide, parts explosion, specifications, etc. on how to tear this down. It looks like a piece of cake, but I would like to have the info anyway. Like torque specs for the 3 allen head bolts. I need to tear this down and clean it out because the previous builder (speed shop) is a moron. Everything was torqued wrong, backlash was wrong, pinion depth wrong, all bearings were chewed up, pinion bearing preload was a 2.5 inch lbs, ring gear bolts way overtorqued and stretched, yoke nut torqued way over 175 ftlbs. It took my biggest breaker bar w/ a 4 foot pole and my body weight (175 lbs) hanging on it to break some ring gear bolts free, while some I could do w/ a ratchet by hand. Spacers weren't even contacting both pinion bearings, so those spun and chewed them up. Not to mention that they never cleaned the housing, which I have pulled so many chips out of it, it's not even funny. I compared bearings from a 12 bolt w/ 130,000 miles on it and the 9" ones were worse.

This rear end was soposed to have only 2000 miles. All I have left to do is clean the true trac unit, but I want to make sure that there isn't some special tool or something that I need. I now have more $$ invested in this thing than if I purchased everything brand new I won't make this mistake again. You could not see these problems by just pulling the center out. Not to mention I have asked the original owner for info w/ reciepts, part #'s etc. multiple times w/ only promises. Never any results. Big surprise Luckily I have found everything that I need and have no use for any info from him anymore.

Anyone have a link or build sheet? I have searched this website, and have been looking a long time on the net through other forums, but none have a breakdown of the truetrac unit itself. Eaton says to send it in, but I have thrown enough $$ away, I will do it myself. Any help is greatly appriciated.

thanks

Mark jr.

Scott@DrivelineSolutions

iTrader: (22)

Either clamp the differential at each bearing side in a vise or in a press and undo the 3-4 bolts that hold the 2 case halves together. Slowely unclamp the case and hold it tightely, you might want to have a helping hand when doing this. Mark each case half and take a pic of how it all goes together, the springs will open up for a good amount of distance.

Google search found, http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produc...cker/index.htm

I have a few servce and instruction sheets from Eaton so if you have access to a fax I can send you a copy.

BlackDuk98

iTrader: (34)

Hi. Thanks for the info. I had found that info before on their site. Unfortunately that looks nothing like what I tore apart. I used your advice on disassembly, and it went smoothly. Instead of springs, they use belvue washers. I also read earlier Eaton's PDF on the truetrac and their pic shows one for something like a 10 and 12 bolt. No specs or anything. Their pics show for c-clip rear ends. But once I tore it apart and marked the gear placement, it was a piece of cake. All cleaned up and put back together. Now I need to just check runout, press bearings, add ring gear and check runout on the gear tonight. Thanks for your help. I do not have a fax, but if you possibly have any specs on a 9" trutrac for 31 spline axles, I would be very interested in it. Thanks for your time


Blevue washers are under the 2-tabbed spacer


Inside view of belvue washers when they were off center before I tore the carrier down. After further inspection, they will move back to a "crooked" position once I start running the rear end

Scott@DrivelineSolutions

iTrader: (22)

Good to see you got it apart without much fuss, make sure you use a red loctite when you tighted the allen bolts down. From your pics it looks pretty good inside so I would just clean it down with brake cleaner and not disturd it any further.

BlackDuk98

iTrader: (34)

Thats exactly what I did. I used brake cleaner and it cleaned up nicely, then I put some gear lube on everything just to make sure no surface rust starts. I wasn't sure if I should use red loctite or not on the allen heads. When I tore it apart, they didn't have any on the threads at all. I marked the position of all the allen heads to the case w/ a paint marker, then used a torque wrench (needle type) to see what they were torqued to. (10 ft lbs). Then tweeked them the smallest bit past the paint marks. But the more I think about it, I think I will pull those screws out and loctite them. Thanks for all the help, I apriciate it.

Mark jr.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Looks purdy damn simple.