My Moser 9" is leaking at the axle.
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I have these ball bearing ones also. From what I heard, the taper bearings require a different diameter housing ends to use them. I was told this from a local rear end builder. From what he said, they don't like turns, so no more getting sideways
and they last about 3000 miles before they leak. I'm in the same boat as probably 90% of people w/ these brand diffs. The info was never offered.......
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All Concerned
If you have a Moser 9inch housing that came with ball bearing axle bearings, then you are stucked with ball bearing axle bearings. You would have to cut off your old axle ends and get a new set of axle ends for the bigger roller bearings. This will include new axles also.
I have talked extensively with Moser Engineering about this and there is no quick and easy fix.
If you have a Moser 9inch housing that came with ball bearing axle bearings, then you are stucked with ball bearing axle bearings. You would have to cut off your old axle ends and get a new set of axle ends for the bigger roller bearings. This will include new axles also.
I have talked extensively with Moser Engineering about this and there is no quick and easy fix.
#25
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Well I think I jinxed myself on this one. Jacked up the car today to start installing some braided stainless fuel line, and low and behold the dreaded oil splatter on the inside of the PS wheel,,,,, Faaawwwwk. Pulled the axle out and the damn cheap POS seal blew out of the bearing and spewed grease/oil everywhere. I'm replacing the bearing with a Napa version and also installing an inside seal for good measure. Now I wonder how long the DS bearing will last before it too decides to take a crap. ![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
FWIW, my axles/bearings were supplied by Moser, but the housing is a Quick Performance. Uses the same interal stuff as Moser, even the axles are the identical lengths etc..
Napa Part Numbers:
Bearing = 88128-R
Inside Seal = 15142
Mike
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
FWIW, my axles/bearings were supplied by Moser, but the housing is a Quick Performance. Uses the same interal stuff as Moser, even the axles are the identical lengths etc..
Napa Part Numbers:
Bearing = 88128-R
Inside Seal = 15142
Mike
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Well I think I jinxed myself on this one. Jacked up the car today to start installing some braided stainless fuel line, and low and behold the dreaded oil splatter on the inside of the PS wheel,,,,, Faaawwwwk. Pulled the axle out and the damn cheap POS seal blew out of the bearing and spewed grease/oil everywhere. I'm replacing the bearing with a Napa version and also installing an inside seal for good measure. Now I wonder how long the DS bearing will last before it too decides to take a crap. ![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
FWIW, my axles/bearings were supplied by Moser, but the housing is a Quick Performance. Uses the same interal stuff as Moser, even the axles are the identical lengths etc..
Napa Part Numbers:
Bearing = 88128-R
Inside Seal = 15142
Mike
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
FWIW, my axles/bearings were supplied by Moser, but the housing is a Quick Performance. Uses the same interal stuff as Moser, even the axles are the identical lengths etc..
Napa Part Numbers:
Bearing = 88128-R
Inside Seal = 15142
Mike
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The reason why we have used and still use the o-ring bearing is that if someone has cut and narrowed their own housing and messed up or totally cut out the seal area in the housing end the o-ring bearing is a way of keeping the diff fluid from leaking.
We sell axles with the o-ring bearing and the Napa 88128RA (our part number is 9508M) for the same price. It isn’t a matter of the cost of the bearing for us but to make sure that the customer has some kind of seal for the diff fluid.
There are a couple of reasons why you can't use the tapered bearing on a ball bearing axle. The bearing spacing on the axle is different for the two different bearings. The inside diameters of the bearings are different so likewise the bearing seat diameter on the axle is different. The outside diameter on the bearings are the same so the housing end is the same for either bearing.
We typically use the ball bearing set up because it is the most common. The tapered bearing is primarily used in off road applications.
We sell axles with the o-ring bearing and the Napa 88128RA (our part number is 9508M) for the same price. It isn’t a matter of the cost of the bearing for us but to make sure that the customer has some kind of seal for the diff fluid.
There are a couple of reasons why you can't use the tapered bearing on a ball bearing axle. The bearing spacing on the axle is different for the two different bearings. The inside diameters of the bearings are different so likewise the bearing seat diameter on the axle is different. The outside diameter on the bearings are the same so the housing end is the same for either bearing.
We typically use the ball bearing set up because it is the most common. The tapered bearing is primarily used in off road applications.
#29
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Now are those bearings and seals somewhat universal meaning that they'll fit in the average moser 9". My bearings are bad and the seals are leaking and I dont want to use the same bearings and seals that moser supplied me with. Mine is a 9" 31 spline axles and a trutrac if that changes anything...
FWIW, that bearing was 37.00 and the seal was only about 7.00. IMO that inner seal is well worth the added insurance. Had I known this before hand, I would have installed the inner seal when I assembled the housing/axles.
Mike
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Well I replaced the seal and bearing today with those napa parts. Only downside I saw was the bearing said MADE IN CHINA right on the box
. Where can I order a high quality bearing (including part #s) if I ever have issues with this bearing?
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Since I hate typing , here is a cut and paste to explain it.
From Kevin's stang and Malibu racing
for the nine inch (as assembled by Ford)there are 3 different bearings- one small and two large. The two large are the same size ( I.D. / O.D specs), but different types of bearings- one is the traditional sealed ball bearing, while the other is the oil bathed roller bearing and race type.The eight inch and most nine inch housings used the small bearing- including the 31 spline CJ cars, Mustang Hi-performance etc.. This bearing was of the sealed ball bearing type, # RW207CCRA (specs: 1.378" I.D., 2.8246" O.D. by 0.8449" width). Early Galaxies and Broncos and some mid 70's Torinos used the large type sealed ball bearing, which meant they had a large tube housing end, bearing # 88128-RA (specs: 1.5312" I.D., 3.1496" O.D. by width). The second type of large bearing (roller type) was used in later pickups and larger Ford cars, bearing # A20 (specs. 1.530" I.D., 3.1530" O.D.), the seal was on outside of bearing. Because of the two different size bearings used in the 9 inch, there are also two (actually three) different backing plate mounting patterns as well. The standard small bearing has an approximately 3 1/2" (horizontal)by 2" (vertical) pattern with 3/8 inch mounting hole diameter, while the large bearing is 3 1/2" by 2 3/8" respectively with 1/2 inch hole size. Some of the mid 70's Torinos used a slightly different plate with a spacing of 3 9/16" by 2" respectively with 3/8" hole size.
#33
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Interesting I didnt know that.... Maybe its a Canadian thing but I have never seen a 9" with anything other than taper bearings??? Unless by some fluke they were semi-floaters using c-clips? That too i have never seen in a 9" but I'm not saying they aren't out there maybe thats the reason?
I guess what I really should say... again... is taper bearings are superior on all accounts IMO unless I'm missing something here? I only run taper bearings its all i recommend. Havent had one issue yet
Those sealed ball bearing bearings are junk and theres vast differences in quality control amongst the different vendors.
I should also note I only run Timken brand they are the best too IMO.
I guess what I really should say... again... is taper bearings are superior on all accounts IMO unless I'm missing something here? I only run taper bearings its all i recommend. Havent had one issue yet
Those sealed ball bearing bearings are junk and theres vast differences in quality control amongst the different vendors.
I should also note I only run Timken brand they are the best too IMO.
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Cam,
I agree with you that the Tapered roller bearing is superior over the bal bearing setup.
I have my issues with my Moser nine inch and sealed ball bearings and road courses. The two don't mix well . Bearings wear quite fast from the side loading. If it was the large bearing ends it wouldbe easy to convert over , but alas it is the small bearing ends.
I agree with you that the Tapered roller bearing is superior over the bal bearing setup.
I have my issues with my Moser nine inch and sealed ball bearings and road courses. The two don't mix well . Bearings wear quite fast from the side loading. If it was the large bearing ends it wouldbe easy to convert over , but alas it is the small bearing ends.
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Where exactly are you putting the RTV silicon at,around the race of the bearing?
I have the same problem and moser was no help at all on getting me a part number for the inner seal or bearing,thanks alot! Now that i have some part numbers maybe i can get this thing sealed up and stop leaking all over my ProStars.
I have the same problem and moser was no help at all on getting me a part number for the inner seal or bearing,thanks alot! Now that i have some part numbers maybe i can get this thing sealed up and stop leaking all over my ProStars.