torque arm destroyed
torque arm destroyed anybody else have anything like this happen. car has only been to drag strip once with 17in mt last year, everything else was on 19in street tires
pic is where top of torque arm bolts to top of rear end. is there a way to keep this from happening again or is mine a fluke?
is there one i should be using other than what i had
pic is where top of torque arm bolts to top of rear end. is there a way to keep this from happening again or is mine a fluke?
is there one i should be using other than what i had
Last edited by wvaboy; Jan 31, 2009 at 02:42 PM.
the whole entire suspension is umi. k-member, lower control arms, torque arm, sub-frames, etc. williams performance installed it all, so i'm sure it's not an installation problem and umi was a big help in picking the pieces to fit my needs.
i just don't want this to happen again if there's a "fix". for example i searched and found some guys are using diamond metal plates? my car is a street car putting down 560 or so na to the rear. i definately don't want to fix this and it happen again 6 months down the road. are the plates something necessary or did i miss something in the setup?
this is not a drag strip car, i just can't believe it ripped like it did. just didn't know if this was something common or not?
i just don't want this to happen again if there's a "fix". for example i searched and found some guys are using diamond metal plates? my car is a street car putting down 560 or so na to the rear. i definately don't want to fix this and it happen again 6 months down the road. are the plates something necessary or did i miss something in the setup?
this is not a drag strip car, i just can't believe it ripped like it did. just didn't know if this was something common or not?
Looks like a Moser rear. Havnt seen that before but you need to run proper hardware on these rears to prevent that. Use a good thick washer under the bolt head and a bushing for the bolt holes, cuz most tq arms holes are not the correct size for the Moser rear. If stock washers still help with lock washers on the nut side.
BTW a bushing is better to use than having the threads of a bolt touching the metal to prevent any stress risers from any rubbing, It dont have to be space age material, brass, will work great.
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It looks like there is not much "meat" around the edge of those holes,
they look like they were punch too close to the edge.
You didn`t happen to cut or alter that bracket did you?
IIRC
There is a thread with 1 or 2 suspension manufacturers talking down to someone
that was asking about making they`re own suspension pieces.
I`ve seen more than a few pics of broken aftermarket TAs here.
Hopefully you can get a replacement part and the R&D team will have something
to go over on Monday.
they look like they were punch too close to the edge.
You didn`t happen to cut or alter that bracket did you?
IIRC
There is a thread with 1 or 2 suspension manufacturers talking down to someone
that was asking about making they`re own suspension pieces.
I`ve seen more than a few pics of broken aftermarket TAs here.
Hopefully you can get a replacement part and the R&D team will have something
to go over on Monday.
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Ive been running a moser rear for about four years now and had some issues with hardware. I used a Spohn short TQarm and a SLP full leanth with a Yank cross member. But seeing the bolt holes on the Spohn were starting to elongate was telling me that the TQarm was moving around even tho I had used locktite and lock washers ETC ETC. So I disassembled the mount and looked at the other mounting holes and discovered that the holes drilled are larger than the ones required for the 1/2 bolts for the Moser. Which made since because factory mounts are metric. Moser is a standard size. Now I looked for a solution and found some hat bushings I used on some helos. Milled them down to the correct thickness for the mount and they took up the spacing of the mount holes. And also used bolts that required a countersunk washer (kinda thick). The washer also help spread the load over a larger area. Looks like metal fatiuge is why yours broke. UMI has seemed to back up thier stuff and hopefully help you out with a new rear mount. Ive seent sponsers my remedy but havent heard any feedback. I will look for any extra hardware I have and make some more. Give me about 1-2 weeks to fabricate because Im at work in the oil field most of my time.
Hello,
I can't really tell what happened? Did it crack or break? I just can't see much in that picture.
It looks to be a Moser 12 bolt correct? If so this is some what common with that rear end due to Mosers way of using bolts... we usually don't warranty the torque arms when being used on a Moser 12-Bolt since the bolts cause this issue to happen. If you can get me a few more pictures and PM me your name I can look into it.
Thanks!
Ryan
I can't really tell what happened? Did it crack or break? I just can't see much in that picture.
It looks to be a Moser 12 bolt correct? If so this is some what common with that rear end due to Mosers way of using bolts... we usually don't warranty the torque arms when being used on a Moser 12-Bolt since the bolts cause this issue to happen. If you can get me a few more pictures and PM me your name I can look into it.
Thanks!
Ryan
But Ryan, Didnt the KTRE rears bolt in the same way Mosers do? Seems that these brackets are only failing on the 4th and 5 gen F-bodys. I know that the Tq arm does put stress here and its only the Moser that they brake on, The harmonics from the gears can cause fatuige in any material used here. Ill go and try to post some pics of a solution that worked for me and what Im saying about the metric/standard delima. Even if the mount was drilled for the bolts, You still would have a problem from the bolt elognateing the hole as it is inserted and tightend down. But a bushing can protect it and good washers can spread the tq load of the bolt over a larger area of the mount. 4 bolts or 2 shouldnt matter as long as its installed correctly.
For example, Take one of your mounts and loosly install on a Moser rear. Now with the bolts not tightend you can see that the mount moves. Even a little movement will cause a stress crack within the material. Which will work its way to the surface and fail like we got here. Any rear does have limits on the car its in, but alot of these failures sholdnt be happening.
I don't see how it can be the rear housings fault no matter the brand. This in my opinion is a safety issue and needs to be addressed. This car does not have an insane amount of power and this should not of happened. Especially with NO track use.
You do realize that Moser uses four short bolts going into blind holes instead of two through bolts like the factory design, correct? That is a recipe for disaster - there have been more than a few complaints of those bolts routinely backing off and causing torque arm damage, hence why UMI and many other suspension companies will NOT warranty their torque arms when used with that rear end. It is a **** poor design, and is the only reason why I chose Strange over Moser for my 12-bolt.
