Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

Thought i had this gone, but its back,,, AND AS OF 8/17/09, ITS STILL THERE

Ive searched a bizillion threads, with no luck in results and i really need some ideas, as it looks like im going to have to throw in the white flag, and take it somewhere....

Problem - turning to pretty much any degree, in any direction gives me this loud whining, groaning, sea lion like, Peter Griffin gettin his back shaved noise coming from the rear. The sharper and slower i go, the worse it seems to be. I am unsure if i feel anything binding or not. Also seems to be worse as the car is warm, vs cold.. not sure of that though
Before its said, i have changed the Mobil 1 gear oil 3 times within the last 500 miles. First two times i used a cheap additive, then got smart and added the good GM additive on the 3rd try, that actually made it stop for about 100 to 200 miles. Yesterday, i added a 3rd bottle to my diff in hopes that i just leaked some fluid and it was getting low,, no dice, still groaning (oil changes were done till i spilled out of the fill hole)

7/8/08, installed my M12 with 410's eaton posi (bought used)
Unit was inspected by Eric V at Midwest Chassis, and it came out lookin good. He even took the posi apart and inspected, also checked the pinion bearings for movement, all good
i installed all new bearings (axel and carrier)
the different U-joint on my stock al DS (i have not checked pinion angle, because i suck, and its stock height, i know i need to have that checked)
also installed a BMR TA (non adj, as i am stock ride height)
UMI PHB (non poly/poly)
UMI LCA's (non/poly), just switched these to UMI LCA (adj's/poly) because of a thrust angle problem (this was the last thing changed B4 the noise came back)
new brakes, tires, etc. About the only thing left stock back there was the sway bar, the endlinks were replaced.
The noise has been there since the rear end was installed, never had this problem with my stock 10 bolt with stock susp componets

The car (2000 WS6 M6, 45XXX) is fine going straight, and less noisy with faster, not as tight turns. Barely any gear noise at all at any speeds.

(may be, or not related, i also have a small vibration that starts at around 1800 RPM's, in any gear)

I plan to have the posi inspected again, gear meshing, etc all looked at, but form the noise givin,,, does anyone have any specif ideas B4 i get raped? The only thing i came up with out of almost 2.5 hours of searching on here was ...

1. new thicker shims needed on the carrier (equal to keep proper meshing)
2. clutch pacs in the carrier are now damaged and need replaced (after only a couple of hundred miles since they were last looked at?)
3. anything driveshaft related cause i didnt check PA (im stock height though)

Thats it. Im lost, pissed, and very frustrated at my car, and myself right now. The only way i see anything ending is by taking it to a dealership, but i would like to have some ideas of where to start before i spend a shitload of money i dont have.
Thanx all
Wayne

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

guess no one has any ideas.

Thanx to the 13 folks that took the time to look at my post...

I will be taking it in next week, was supposed to today, but our family pet (meathead) is hanging by a thread (kidneys) so i wont be spending any $ on my car for a bit
Once i get an answer from Green Chevy here in Peoria IL, i will post up for anyone that cares to know.

Thanx

Wayne

Technoman64

iTrader: (6)

My Moser 12-bolt with heavy duty eaton posi did this until I replaced the clutch plates and installed lighter springs in the posi unit. It would make all the noises you described and then some, noises that cannot be described with words

When I installed the new-updated clutch pack in the diff I put a very thin layer of the diff additive on the surface of each clutch plate before installing it.

I have not had one problem since.

If I remember correctly Moser engineering directed me to a shop that had the parts needed. Randy's in WA I think, cant really remember right now.

98silvertacrbn

iTrader: (106)

Just a guess but maybe your posi unit does not have enough shims to keep it tight causing your posi to shift when you turn. I had this same problem in a 8.8 ford i had only thing you can do is take it out and reset the gears with more shims. you should have to hit it pretty hard with a rubber mallet to put the carrier in place. Thats the only thing i can guess it might be

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

thats my guess as well, once i get it in the shop
(im so tired of working on it)
i will post up my results

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

ok, *** hole is puckered and its in the shop...

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

lol, only 22 bux spent today, even got new juice in the rear.....they think the noise is coming from the tranny and transmitting via the TA, which makes me think its coming from the rear. As he drove me around the lot, i can feel where it does sound as if it is coming from the tranny, kinda feels and sounds like something is binding as i turn,,,,, no noises when turning in netrual,,,im still at square -4 though. My clutch does have some high miles (25000, ?) its a Spec 3. So it may be time to change her out. I know what will happen though, just cause my luck sux,,, im going to spend a grand on a new clutch, button it all back together, and still have the same damn issue.

oh yeah,,,
They checked bearings, backlash, clutchpacks, etc, everything with the rear end it self came back fine.

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

ok, now its going to Didleys in Metamora,,, they do custom hot rod builds out there so maybe i'll get lucky. This sux a big one

Wayne

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

Didleys gave it a good go, but no luck there either. They did inspect the rear, nothing shown to be out of place or wrong. Took the brakes apart, nothing there. They changed the fluid to the same thing i had (mobil 1 w gm add) and the sound went away,,,,,,,for about 80 miles.

Im going to be replacing a axel bearing on my DR side (its a new one, but china made, and i have a rotational squeek, squeek, squeek back there and think thats it.... i am going to change the oil and such to the recommended dino oil, vs the synthetic i have been useing. (if that was my problem, im going to kick my own ***)

thanx for the help to those that gave it.

Wayne

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

so far, so good,,,,,,i'll be convinced after i put on a few more miles to be sure

emptied the brand new (80 miles) Mobil 1 with GM additive (making horrible grinding noise)
filled back up with conventional valvaline, lucas and GM additive

no more noise





so far,, (ive only got about 50 miles on it)

metalmechanic

whats happening? let us know.

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

,,, 150+ miles (thats the longest its gone all this last year) and still no noise.. usually it would be back within 50 to 80 miles. I feel like such an *** but it looks like the latest oil change did the trick.. Read you instructions!!! (i bought this rear used and didnt have any unitl i found Bob's on his EPP website,,, big bold black all cap letters saying "DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL",,,,,,i drained my brand new mobil 1w/ additive (ahem,,,,again) and filled with the following in the order listed...

1. 4oz tube of GM additve
2. 32 oz (1qrt) lucas conventional oil stabilizer (this stuff is like snot, no joke)
3. 64 oz (2 qrts) Valvoline conventional 80/90 (used 1 full, and about 3/4 of the other (I used the side fill on the Moser housing filled until spilled)

YEAH! now i just need to get a vibration issue taken care of and i will finally be issue free!!!!

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

750 miles and it came back. I should have just bought a strange 12 like i was planning on doing in the first place. I will be going with all 100 % lucas convential and no additive to see if it makes any difference. Doubt it. Sux when your car is no longer fun. wish me luck.

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

that didnt work either.
After having many different folks look at it, spending more money on oil, mechanics, and additive than i can count,, i am at a loss. i have no idea who to turn to, who to ask for help, what to do. im stuck with no where to go, and having conversations with myself on the internet.


the noise is worse now, more of a grinding noise vs the howling noise it started out to be
i think (im no expert here) that something is binding up

Nasty N8

iTrader: (33)

If fluid has helped it is definatly the rear and not the trans. If it only happens in turns it can only be a couple issues...axle bearings, carrier shifting, clutch pack in diff making the noise or something really loose or bent causing the brakes to grind under load but that would prob be only one direction. Why not stop having it inspected and just replace the cluth pack and carrier bearings so you know they are 100% and eliminate some of the possibles. Call a moser dealer like EPP or Moser directly and see if they have some suggestions.

Harley-Davidson88

iTrader: (71)

I am with Nate here. If it made no noise for 750 miles due to a fluid change in the rearend, it is definitely a rearend issue. That being said, it definitely has to be something that is effected by the fluid. If I were you, I would simply do the exact same fluid change that you did before (that lasted 750 miles) and see what happens. I am leaning heavily towards it being an issue with the posi unit myself.

Have you tried this...especially since it was a used unit you purchased? That's the next direction I would head after the fluid change if the noise returns.

Or you could just throw a spool in. Problem solved.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I'm going to venture a wild guess that your 12-bolt came with the heavy-duty Eaton option (probably has yellow preload springs pushing on the clutch packs?). I have this same unit, and under tight, slow turning, mine will make some weird noises as well.

I have a feeling you just need it rebuilt using a different clutch pack and/or preload springs that aren't quite as heavy as the ones that came in it provided it is what I think it is. Where you would get this done, I have no idea, but that is where I would start.

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

it does have the yellow springs!!!!!

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

ok after some i found out that the yellow springs are rated at 400 lbs,, green ones are rated 200 lbs... which would make a hell of a difference..

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/arch...p/t-68913.html

gotta love this internet thing

man i be this is it!!!!!!!!!!!!((i hope this is it anyways))

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

Posi now rebuilt by Eric at Midwest Chassis (same yellow springs were used with new plates and shims) and seemed to clear it up. I will post back up with results after a few hundred miles. From what we can tell, my using the wrong oils, and not using the Ford additive (as suggested by Eaton) has glazed the clutch plates causing them to not grab as they should on turns. Hopfully this issue is closed!!! Eric also verified that my other issue (i have a vibration, all gears, 1800 to 2500 RPMS and in neutral) is my clutch.

Wish me luck

Wayne