Changing a rear end
Changing a rear end How difficult will it be to swap out my 10 bolt with another stock 10 bolt? I can't seem to find any threads or stickies on this subject. Is this going to be a huge headache without a lift? My shop wants to charge $500+ for the swap. In case you're wondering, I'm swapping them out because my axles are bent (both rear tires toe in).
In theory, if you got one from a car with the same drive train, the same way you take it out is the way you put the other in. Any Haynes manual should be enough help. Be sure you have a jack to rest the weight of the rear end and some friends. Oh and bring your extra patience.
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
well, first you support the back end up off the ground. remove the rear in this order
1. remove tires/wheels
2. remove brake calipers (hang them up in the wheelwells with a coat hangar)
3. remove TCS sensors at the end of each axle if you have them.
4. remove driveshaft
5. remove torque arm
6. remove panhard bar
7. disconnect E-brake lines at axle ends
8. undo pan bolts (2) that have the brackets for the E-brake lines
9. remove sway bar end links
10. unhook brake lines from small bendable clips along each axle tube.
11. unbolt brake line hold down from the top driver side of the center chunk
12. place floor jack under center chunk
13. unhook lower control arms so you can remove the brackets that are attached to the hard lines.
14. jack up on the rear end, remove the shock bolts, and slowly lower it making sure not to snag any of the brake lines on the way down.
15. drink cold beer
installation is the reverse of removal basically
01ssreda4 not responsible for any injury, consult with your local mechanic.
1. remove tires/wheels
2. remove brake calipers (hang them up in the wheelwells with a coat hangar)
3. remove TCS sensors at the end of each axle if you have them.
4. remove driveshaft
5. remove torque arm
6. remove panhard bar
7. disconnect E-brake lines at axle ends
8. undo pan bolts (2) that have the brackets for the E-brake lines
9. remove sway bar end links
10. unhook brake lines from small bendable clips along each axle tube.
11. unbolt brake line hold down from the top driver side of the center chunk
12. place floor jack under center chunk
13. unhook lower control arms so you can remove the brackets that are attached to the hard lines.
14. jack up on the rear end, remove the shock bolts, and slowly lower it making sure not to snag any of the brake lines on the way down.
15. drink cold beer
installation is the reverse of removal basically
01ssreda4 not responsible for any injury, consult with your local mechanic.
this is for a 12 bolt, but its the same method... pics and all in this link
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...l-12-bolt.html
maybe im way off here, but if your axels are bent, cant you just replace the axels and the bearings....that be a hell ofa lot easier....
unless you actually screwed up the housing/tubes themselves..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...l-12-bolt.html
maybe im way off here, but if your axels are bent, cant you just replace the axels and the bearings....that be a hell ofa lot easier....
unless you actually screwed up the housing/tubes themselves..
I'm pretty sure the bent axles affected the housing. I was having trouble getting anyone to diagnose it exactly. My mechanic did some measurements to determine the back end was messed up. The alignment shops and body shops wouldn't even look at it because they said there was nothing they could do. Apparently I bought it this way and don't know how it happened. It's never been in a accident. It possible could've been done by a tow truck. Not sure.
to find out if the tubing, etc is messed up, you need to have someone put in a aligment rod, or whatever they call it (i did this to mine as i thought mine was screwed up),, what they do is they take out your posi (or whatever you have), and run a pipe that just fits from one end to the other to see if the bearings, houseing, etc are where they are supposed to be. If the pipe dosnt go through all the way, something is not right. Eric V did this for me at Midwest Chassis in Pekin IL. He's ssvrt99 on here..
to find out if the tubing, etc is messed up, you need to have someone put in a aligment rod, or whatever they call it (i did this to mine as i thought mine was screwed up),, what they do is they take out your posi (or whatever you have), and run a pipe that just fits from one end to the other to see if the bearings, houseing, etc are where they are supposed to be. If the pipe dosnt go through all the way, something is not right. Eric V did this for me at Midwest Chassis in Pekin IL. He's ssvrt99 on here..
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Verdad Gallardo OK i think I understand. When you get the car in the air, supported on the jack stands you put the jack under the pumpkin to hold the weight of the diff. not lift the car really. Is this what you were asking?
I remember reading a thread a while back where a guy swapped out his 10-Bolt for a S60 in a parking lot. I've done a lot of suspension work on my car and changing out the rear end doesn't seem to be hard at all.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=145
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...html?item=1263
The above two links may help you out. The first link has step by step instructions on how to install a Moser 9 inch. The second link is the Moser instructions for both the 12 bolt and the nine inch. Bob
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...html?item=1263
The above two links may help you out. The first link has step by step instructions on how to install a Moser 9 inch. The second link is the Moser instructions for both the 12 bolt and the nine inch. Bob
