Midwest Chassis 9" is leaking...
Midwest Chassis 9" is leaking... I thought it was my brake caliper but after looking into it further, its leaking out the passenger side axle onto the rotor.
I shot Eric an email on Monday and no response, maybe hes on vacation.
So, anyone know what the part# is I need to get for this 9"?
I shot Eric an email on Monday and no response, maybe hes on vacation.
So, anyone know what the part# is I need to get for this 9"?
could be two different ones... most likely it is the tapered style bearing which is Timken set 20. should be available at a parts store. if it has the o-ring around the od of the bearing then call me and i will tell you the options.
Hey Eric... sorry for the post, just thought maybe you were out of town on vacation or somethign and didnt want to bug ya.
I had issues with my braking being soft at the end of last year and thougt it was my LL/ABS delete kit. But, when I found this out last week I cleaned up the rotor/caliper and the car braked like like a bran new car again. So, im convinced it started leaking last year. It only has ~500 miles on it?
Im going to be putting in a new fuel harness/pump and since I had the car up I was going to try and fix the leak, so I was seeing what I should do or see what others have done in this case.
How do I tell what style is what?
I had issues with my braking being soft at the end of last year and thougt it was my LL/ABS delete kit. But, when I found this out last week I cleaned up the rotor/caliper and the car braked like like a bran new car again. So, im convinced it started leaking last year. It only has ~500 miles on it?
Im going to be putting in a new fuel harness/pump and since I had the car up I was going to try and fix the leak, so I was seeing what I should do or see what others have done in this case.
How do I tell what style is what?
Last edited by waterbug1999; Jun 18, 2009 at 11:28 PM.
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the normal(street/strip) type i use is the tapered style bearing. it has a lip seal that rides on the axle shaft on the flange side. the other style(ball bearing) is a sealed type and will have a o-ring installed on the od of the bearing. the tapered style bearing is available at parts stores, the ball bearing with the o-ring is not.
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unless its aluminum, all the other driveshafts are Strange chromemoly.
if it is the tapered style where the seal is on the flange side of the bearing, then you may be able to see the seal under the opening in the backing plate to verify this... it would only be 4 bolts to just pull it out then to look at it.
unless its aluminum, all the other driveshafts are Strange chromemoly.
unless its aluminum, all the other driveshafts are Strange chromemoly.
I hate working on rear ends, I suppose I have to take the whole dang thing apart to get the axle out, right? Never torn apart a 9" before. How do the axles come out?
if that is the case you more than likely have the tapered bearing. if that is what is leaking then the bearing/seal assy will need to be replaced. i would clean off the parts with brakewash and drive the car for a bit, then check it to see where the fluid is coming from just to be sure that is the problem.
to pull the axle out, all you have to do is remove the brake caliper and rotor, remove the 4 silver color nuts that hold the backing plates on, and pull the axle out... its really simple.
you also may want to remove the vent and check to see that it is not blocked in any way. if the vent is restricted, then the pinion and axle seals will more than likely leak due to internal pressure when it gets warm.
to pull the axle out, all you have to do is remove the brake caliper and rotor, remove the 4 silver color nuts that hold the backing plates on, and pull the axle out... its really simple.
you also may want to remove the vent and check to see that it is not blocked in any way. if the vent is restricted, then the pinion and axle seals will more than likely leak due to internal pressure when it gets warm.
if that is the case you more than likely have the tapered bearing. if that is what is leaking then the bearing/seal assy will need to be replaced. i would clean off the parts with brakewash and drive the car for a bit, then check it to see where the fluid is coming from just to be sure that is the problem.
to pull the axle out, all you have to do is remove the brake caliper and rotor, remove the 4 silver color nuts that hold the backing plates on, and pull the axle out... its really simple.
you also may want to remove the vent and check to see that it is not blocked in any way. if the vent is restricted, then the pinion and axle seals will more than likely leak due to internal pressure when it gets warm.
to pull the axle out, all you have to do is remove the brake caliper and rotor, remove the 4 silver color nuts that hold the backing plates on, and pull the axle out... its really simple.
you also may want to remove the vent and check to see that it is not blocked in any way. if the vent is restricted, then the pinion and axle seals will more than likely leak due to internal pressure when it gets warm.
Not sure what you mean??
I read something about the vent.. ill look at that.
Can I just have the car on blocks and let the rear spin while up in the air?
My fuel pump is screwed up and I had to tow it home last sunday. It happened last year too and it went out completely 10 miles later. so i dont wanna drive it.
He just means to clean off the area where the fluid is and take it for a drive. Sometimes you can't really verify where a leak is coming from because when you're driving the fluid blows everywhere. By cleaning the area and driving it for a short while you can pinpoint the location.
He just means to clean off the area where the fluid is and take it for a drive. Sometimes you can't really verify where a leak is coming from because when you're driving the fluid blows everywhere. By cleaning the area and driving it for a short while you can pinpoint the location.
Cant.. fuel pump is on the skits. I have a racetronix harness/pump on its way, was going to try and fix this leak while its down. Ill have to run it while its on jack stand.
Last time it did this it took another 10 miles for it completely to be garbage.. 155 tow home sucks.
Last edited by waterbug1999; Jun 20, 2009 at 07:19 PM.
Part number for the seal and bearing are Timken #'s K523967 and U399A 90012. Also if you install the seals evenly they need no RTV. I have about 2000 mi. on mine with no leaking and no RTV. Good Luck..