Real stupid quick queston about gears
#1
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Real stupid quick queston about gears
A B buddy and i are getting ready to have 4:10s put in our cars.. Where we live there is not really anywhere that specializes in working with our type of cars... is this a task that just about any car shop should be able to do and about how much are we looking at to get this done... thanks
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im having a local performance shop do mine. they quoted me $225 for labor only (since i have every part necessary). but as far as parts go, you probably need to pick up a master install bearing kit($120), the gears($100-$200), a ta cover would be a good upgrade($100-$150), some fluid of your choice($30-$50), and some GM limited slip additive($5-$10) wouldnt hurt since you're already there. it's very easy to set up gears incorrectly. if they are slightly off, they can whine like a m-f'er. most will say they can do it but i would only trust the ones who have done a ton. it would be worth it to find the closest f-body friendly performance shop
#3
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There's nothing f-body specific at all about a gear installation. If they are good with gear installs, they are good with gear installs.
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I may get flamed for this but...
If you are short on performance shops in the area who do a lot of gear swaps you might consider looking for some of the more serious 4x4/offroad shops. Bigger tires means different gears quite a bit of the time. The good shops are quite adept at swapping out gears and shouldn't even flinch at properly setting up your gears.
If you are short on performance shops in the area who do a lot of gear swaps you might consider looking for some of the more serious 4x4/offroad shops. Bigger tires means different gears quite a bit of the time. The good shops are quite adept at swapping out gears and shouldn't even flinch at properly setting up your gears.
#5
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They usually do a ton of gear swaps.
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#7
here is the prob. you keep showing up with information that is already outdated or everyone knows. how about ANY drivetrain shop period? or any gear/clutch place? a rear end is far from brain surgery. and its def not hard at all. anyone who gets more than 40HP out of full bolt ons and a cam should be able to do it.....as long as they make sure NOT to remove emissions and target the correct AFR when doing the gear swap
to the OP. There is no need to take your car to a speed shop JUST because it is a camaro, or higher HP or because you are swapping gears. A place that runs rearends all day SHOULD normally be less $$$ than a company that does just the 2 in question
to the OP. There is no need to take your car to a speed shop JUST because it is a camaro, or higher HP or because you are swapping gears. A place that runs rearends all day SHOULD normally be less $$$ than a company that does just the 2 in question
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#8
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Did mine last year. Here's what you'll need:
- 4 qts. Mobil1 synthetic gear oil (Any synthetic works, but I like Mobil1. ~1.5 qts. in first, then change the fluid after 500-1000 miles.)
- Limited slip additive (Technically not required with a synthetic gear oil, but I use it anyway. ~$4-$5 at AutoZone.)
- Ratech rebuild kit with bearings & spacers ($70-90 at Summit)
- 1 rear end gasket (For the 500-1000 mile fluid change. The rebuild kit should come with 1 gasket. Some use RTV instead, or a combination.)
- Ratech solid pinion spacer (Summit) - optional, but recommended
- New OEM crosspin (<$5 from any GM dealer) - optional, but recommended
- OEM pinion seal (~$12 at GM dealer. Seriously. Get this. Especially if your car is an '02. I went through 3-4 aftermarket seals before getting the OEM. Not a drop leaked since. Just toss out the seal that comes with the rebuild kit.)
- New gears (Motive Performance, US Gear, and AAM are your best bets. I got my Motive Performance gears for around $185 at Summit.)
- Loctite (The installer will probably have this, but you want the red stuff. Make sure he Loctites the ring gear bolts & the crosspin bolt.)
The cheapest I could find an installer for was $250. Any "performance" or "race" shop should have some experience with the gears. Make sure the installer knows his stuff and warranties the work.
4:10's in a 10-bolt are very difficult to get quiet, due to the small tooth size. The gears I listed above have proven to be the quietest. Make sure you follow the break-in period on your new gears. After the pattern is set in the gears, that's what you'll be stuck with. Good luck, man.
- 4 qts. Mobil1 synthetic gear oil (Any synthetic works, but I like Mobil1. ~1.5 qts. in first, then change the fluid after 500-1000 miles.)
- Limited slip additive (Technically not required with a synthetic gear oil, but I use it anyway. ~$4-$5 at AutoZone.)
- Ratech rebuild kit with bearings & spacers ($70-90 at Summit)
- 1 rear end gasket (For the 500-1000 mile fluid change. The rebuild kit should come with 1 gasket. Some use RTV instead, or a combination.)
- Ratech solid pinion spacer (Summit) - optional, but recommended
- New OEM crosspin (<$5 from any GM dealer) - optional, but recommended
- OEM pinion seal (~$12 at GM dealer. Seriously. Get this. Especially if your car is an '02. I went through 3-4 aftermarket seals before getting the OEM. Not a drop leaked since. Just toss out the seal that comes with the rebuild kit.)
- New gears (Motive Performance, US Gear, and AAM are your best bets. I got my Motive Performance gears for around $185 at Summit.)
- Loctite (The installer will probably have this, but you want the red stuff. Make sure he Loctites the ring gear bolts & the crosspin bolt.)
The cheapest I could find an installer for was $250. Any "performance" or "race" shop should have some experience with the gears. Make sure the installer knows his stuff and warranties the work.
4:10's in a 10-bolt are very difficult to get quiet, due to the small tooth size. The gears I listed above have proven to be the quietest. Make sure you follow the break-in period on your new gears. After the pattern is set in the gears, that's what you'll be stuck with. Good luck, man.
#10
gectec. Can i ask what you do for a living?? Have you even finished highschool.
You can sit here and stalk me on ls1tech all you want.
But until you have a f***ing mechanical engineering degree, graduated with honors, get a paid to go to the 2nd best engineering school, graduated before you were 21 and work for a major auto manufacturer. Shut up and get a life.
You can try it yourself but its way different than a cam swap. HAHA its not a twist and pull out like an ls1 motor. Those gears need to be absolutely perfect. I have seen multiple friends try (a few compotent) and still blown up rears. I personally have never tried but without the specialty tools would leave it to a shop. You have to set backlash, pinion spacing the whole 9 yards.
http://www.differentials.com/install.html thats a good site it gives you a pretty good scoop on whats up.
You can sit here and stalk me on ls1tech all you want.
But until you have a f***ing mechanical engineering degree, graduated with honors, get a paid to go to the 2nd best engineering school, graduated before you were 21 and work for a major auto manufacturer. Shut up and get a life.
You can try it yourself but its way different than a cam swap. HAHA its not a twist and pull out like an ls1 motor. Those gears need to be absolutely perfect. I have seen multiple friends try (a few compotent) and still blown up rears. I personally have never tried but without the specialty tools would leave it to a shop. You have to set backlash, pinion spacing the whole 9 yards.
http://www.differentials.com/install.html thats a good site it gives you a pretty good scoop on whats up.
#11
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Did mine last year. Here's what you'll need:
- 4 qts. Mobil1 synthetic gear oil (Any synthetic works, but I like Mobil1. ~1.5 qts. in first, then change the fluid after 500-1000 miles.)
- Limited slip additive (Technically not required with a synthetic gear oil, but I use it anyway. ~$4-$5 at AutoZone.)
- Ratech rebuild kit with bearings & spacers ($70-90 at Summit)
- 1 rear end gasket (For the 500-1000 mile fluid change. The rebuild kit should come with 1 gasket. Some use RTV instead, or a combination.)
- Ratech solid pinion spacer (Summit) - optional, but recommended
- New OEM crosspin (<$5 from any GM dealer) - optional, but recommended
- OEM pinion seal (~$12 at GM dealer. Seriously. Get this. Especially if your car is an '02. I went through 3-4 aftermarket seals before getting the OEM. Not a drop leaked since. Just toss out the seal that comes with the rebuild kit.)
- New gears (Motive Performance, US Gear, and AAM are your best bets. I got my Motive Performance gears for around $185 at Summit.)
- Loctite (The installer will probably have this, but you want the red stuff. Make sure he Loctites the ring gear bolts & the crosspin bolt.)
The cheapest I could find an installer for was $250. Any "performance" or "race" shop should have some experience with the gears. Make sure the installer knows his stuff and warranties the work.
4:10's in a 10-bolt are very difficult to get quiet, due to the small tooth size. The gears I listed above have proven to be the quietest. Make sure you follow the break-in period on your new gears. After the pattern is set in the gears, that's what you'll be stuck with. Good luck, man.
- 4 qts. Mobil1 synthetic gear oil (Any synthetic works, but I like Mobil1. ~1.5 qts. in first, then change the fluid after 500-1000 miles.)
- Limited slip additive (Technically not required with a synthetic gear oil, but I use it anyway. ~$4-$5 at AutoZone.)
- Ratech rebuild kit with bearings & spacers ($70-90 at Summit)
- 1 rear end gasket (For the 500-1000 mile fluid change. The rebuild kit should come with 1 gasket. Some use RTV instead, or a combination.)
- Ratech solid pinion spacer (Summit) - optional, but recommended
- New OEM crosspin (<$5 from any GM dealer) - optional, but recommended
- OEM pinion seal (~$12 at GM dealer. Seriously. Get this. Especially if your car is an '02. I went through 3-4 aftermarket seals before getting the OEM. Not a drop leaked since. Just toss out the seal that comes with the rebuild kit.)
- New gears (Motive Performance, US Gear, and AAM are your best bets. I got my Motive Performance gears for around $185 at Summit.)
- Loctite (The installer will probably have this, but you want the red stuff. Make sure he Loctites the ring gear bolts & the crosspin bolt.)
The cheapest I could find an installer for was $250. Any "performance" or "race" shop should have some experience with the gears. Make sure the installer knows his stuff and warranties the work.
4:10's in a 10-bolt are very difficult to get quiet, due to the small tooth size. The gears I listed above have proven to be the quietest. Make sure you follow the break-in period on your new gears. After the pattern is set in the gears, that's what you'll be stuck with. Good luck, man.
#12
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i thought GM gears were proven to be the quietest and i have had several rear-end techs tell me not to use aftermarket bearing kits. so far, all have told me to use Timkin(which i believe makes the bearings for GM?). absolutely right about setting a pattern, though. once it's set, there's no going back. that's why i recommended a performance shop. they tend to have the more skilled techs, in my experience. i never thought about a 4x4 shop though, seems like a good idea.
As for the bearings, I've never had a problem with the Ratech kits. They might already use Timken bearings, for all I know. Timken bearings are the cream of the crop in the bearing world, but anything will work.
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GM gears are actually made by AAM (American Axle & Manufacturing). The only difference is the gears cost less if you buy them as AAM-branded, instead of directly through GM.
As for the bearings, I've never had a problem with the Ratech kits. They might already use Timken bearings, for all I know. Timken bearings are the cream of the crop in the bearing world, but anything will work.
As for the bearings, I've never had a problem with the Ratech kits. They might already use Timken bearings, for all I know. Timken bearings are the cream of the crop in the bearing world, but anything will work.
#14
gectec. Can i ask what you do for a living?? Have you even finished highschool.
You can sit here and stalk me on ls1tech all you want.
But until you have a f***ing mechanical engineering degree, graduated with honors, get a paid to go to the 2nd best engineering school, graduated before you were 21 and work for a major auto manufacturer. Shut up and get a life.
You can try it yourself but its way different than a cam swap. HAHA its not a twist and pull out like an ls1 motor. Those gears need to be absolutely perfect. I have seen multiple friends try (a few compotent) and still blown up rears. I personally have never tried but without the specialty tools would leave it to a shop. You have to set backlash, pinion spacing the whole 9 yards.
http://www.differentials.com/install.html thats a good site it gives you a pretty good scoop on whats up.
You can sit here and stalk me on ls1tech all you want.
But until you have a f***ing mechanical engineering degree, graduated with honors, get a paid to go to the 2nd best engineering school, graduated before you were 21 and work for a major auto manufacturer. Shut up and get a life.
You can try it yourself but its way different than a cam swap. HAHA its not a twist and pull out like an ls1 motor. Those gears need to be absolutely perfect. I have seen multiple friends try (a few compotent) and still blown up rears. I personally have never tried but without the specialty tools would leave it to a shop. You have to set backlash, pinion spacing the whole 9 yards.
http://www.differentials.com/install.html thats a good site it gives you a pretty good scoop on whats up.
Now tell me what the hell mechanical engineering has to do with anything? If an actual mechanic who knows about cars were given a chance to build a car, it would be easy to work on.
Anyone can read a book junior.....but mechanics learn from that, then turn the wrench in the real world. IF you are a mechanical engineer, the worst part of your day would be the papercut you get from filing papers because no one will talk to your retareded *** at the watercooler. The dirtiest your hands get are when you play around with the rubber stamp at work.
Get a clue, THEN a life, THEN stop thinking the world revolves around you and im just out to stalk you. I have this button on my menu bar that says recent stupid posts....i click that and your posts show up and so do posts from a few others....cant have you going around thinking you have the biggest e-dick in the world.
better? do i need to smarten it up for the 5 time college grad? how about if i pay you to read it like you propose the other colleges did? would that help?
#15
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here is the prob. you keep showing up with information that is already outdated or everyone knows. how about ANY drivetrain shop period? or any gear/clutch place? a rear end is far from brain surgery. and its def not hard at all. anyone who gets more than 40HP out of full bolt ons and a cam should be able to do it.....as long as they make sure NOT to remove emissions and target the correct AFR when doing the gear swap
to the OP. There is no need to take your car to a speed shop JUST because it is a camaro, or higher HP or because you are swapping gears. A place that runs rearends all day SHOULD normally be less $$$ than a company that does just the 2 in question
to the OP. There is no need to take your car to a speed shop JUST because it is a camaro, or higher HP or because you are swapping gears. A place that runs rearends all day SHOULD normally be less $$$ than a company that does just the 2 in question
The gears are the ******* brain surgery of camaro mods, if it ain't perfect it's fucked to hell and back.
And what the hell do emissions have to do with it? Unless that's sarcasm you're a very misguided person.
#16
Haha i bet you work on gravity all day too and could throw an apple into space who needs newton that old educated dead guy. Have a good life man and i hope everything works out for you.
I have done a few frame off restorations one on my 67 show car with 650 hp but I am not arguing with you. I am just saying don't type my name into your find option to comment on everything I say like you know better and I am a moron. Because the real world says you have **** for credentials. But hey thats the .02 of an engineer who develops the parts you work on. Unless your cars drop from the sky.
Again god bless have a good life. And try not to be a dick to everyone because thats all you will get back. And probably not much business either.
I have done a few frame off restorations one on my 67 show car with 650 hp but I am not arguing with you. I am just saying don't type my name into your find option to comment on everything I say like you know better and I am a moron. Because the real world says you have **** for credentials. But hey thats the .02 of an engineer who develops the parts you work on. Unless your cars drop from the sky.
Again god bless have a good life. And try not to be a dick to everyone because thats all you will get back. And probably not much business either.
#18
You seem to be judging the difficulty of a gear install without ever having done it.
The gears are the ******* brain surgery of camaro mods, if it ain't perfect it's fucked to hell and back.
And what the hell do emissions have to do with it? Unless that's sarcasm you're a very misguided person.
The gears are the ******* brain surgery of camaro mods, if it ain't perfect it's fucked to hell and back.
And what the hell do emissions have to do with it? Unless that's sarcasm you're a very misguided person.
The rest was sarcasm....from another thread about Mr Billy BA himself
#19
Dude you would never ever ever touch my car. BTW i hope you feel bad *** because I am actually 19 and a senior in college. Haha i hope that pumps up your esteem by acting like your the **** and stalking a 19 year old on the internet but hey maybe thats what i have to look forward to when i get older.
So go turn your wrench feel better about yourself... Be the "****" and leave me alone. Because you better believe next comment I will got to a moderator because this is ridiculous. I am sorry that you have nothing better to do and that you are a severly under educated fool who thinks he knows the world because he lives in it.
So go turn your wrench feel better about yourself... Be the "****" and leave me alone. Because you better believe next comment I will got to a moderator because this is ridiculous. I am sorry that you have nothing better to do and that you are a severly under educated fool who thinks he knows the world because he lives in it.
Last edited by Radcannon; 07-30-2009 at 11:31 AM.
#20
Dude you would never ever ever touch my car. BTW i hope you feel bad *** because I am actually 19 and a senior in college. Haha i hope that pumps up your esteem by acting like your the **** and stalking a 19 year old on the internet but hey maybe thats what i have to look forward to when i get older.
So go turn your wrench feel better about yourself... Be the "****" and leave me alone. Because you better believe next comment I will got to a moderator because this is ridiculous. I am sorry that you have nothing better to do and that you are a severly under educated fool who thinks he knows the world because he lives in it.
So go turn your wrench feel better about yourself... Be the "****" and leave me alone. Because you better believe next comment I will got to a moderator because this is ridiculous. I am sorry that you have nothing better to do and that you are a severly under educated fool who thinks he knows the world because he lives in it.
why dont you take a chill pill and go checkout facebook or something like the rest of the college kids do. this is big kid talk here