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8.8 Build

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Old 01-07-2010, 09:47 PM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by Blownz28man
Yea.. weight wouldn't be anygood then...why not go with a 9" than hu? Wonder how much weight? 5-10lbs?? So are you gonna pre set your pinion angle or put an adjustment in there? Looks good!
I will be putting rod ends at both ends that contact the axle tubes for adjustment, and as far as the nine inch it robs more power then the 8.8
Old 01-07-2010, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy WS6
I had my axles cut with GM hubs bolt pattern & bearings for my f-body and had them splined to 31 for the 8.8
How did you know the length? Or are they the same length as stock 10bolt axles?
Old 01-07-2010, 09:59 PM
  #183  
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I built my 8.8 to the same specs as my 7.5 and yes there the same exact length
Old 01-13-2010, 06:52 PM
  #184  
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ok i found a great deal on an 8.8 out of an f150 that already has 31 spline axles and 3.55 posi. i plan on cutting the tubes off and building it the way randyws6 has. will this rearend be ok for that? didnt know if there was anything different seeing as it is coming out of a truck.
Old 01-15-2010, 12:47 PM
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Anyone?
Old 01-15-2010, 11:56 PM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by whitelt1ta
Anyone?
Only difference is the truck 8.8 are a little bit heavier
Old 01-16-2010, 12:26 AM
  #187  
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do you think it would be enough to really matter? with it have a 31 spline posi and 3.55 gears thats a big plus.
Old 01-16-2010, 03:09 PM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by whitelt1ta
do you think it would be enough to really matter? with it have a 31 spline posi and 3.55 gears thats a big plus.
i wouldn't think so. Your going to cut the axle tubes off anyways that should take some of the weight off
Old 01-17-2010, 03:50 AM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by Randy WS6
I built my 8.8 to the same specs as my 7.5 and yes there the same exact length
are the axle tubes from the 10-bolt the same diameter as the 8.8?
I was thinking of going your route and weld the tubes to the 8.8 pumpkin.
Old 01-17-2010, 07:33 AM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by need4fun2469
are the axle tubes from the 10-bolt the same diameter as the 8.8?
I was thinking of going your route and weld the tubes to the 8.8 pumpkin.
No they are about 1/4" smaller so you will have to have a "collar" made so that they fit tight together.
Old 01-18-2010, 08:35 PM
  #191  
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how do you collar them and what does that mean? cut my tubes yesterday but they don't slide into my 8.8.
Old 01-18-2010, 08:36 PM
  #192  
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Or by collar did you mean a sleeve that would allow each different diameter tube to slip in and be weld in place.
Old 01-19-2010, 03:51 AM
  #193  
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i think that's the collar he is talking about.
it seems that randy ws6 slid the axle tubes from the 7.5 into the 8.8 tubes.
he didn't mention any thing about preping the 8.8 to allow the 7.5 tubes to slid in.
Old 01-19-2010, 08:19 AM
  #194  
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you guys need to go back and read, this has been mentioned before. The ID of the 8.8 tubes is LARGER than the OD of the 7.5 10 bolt axel tubes. There is about 1/4" of difference between the two so you will have to make something that fits the ID of the 8.8 tubes and then is going to fit the OD of the 10 bolt axel tubes, this is the only way they will fit snug together.
Old 01-19-2010, 08:36 PM
  #195  
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i just reread randys post and at no point did he say he used sleeves or collars. at least i think. Any in my thread i asked him about and he said he didnt use any but seeing as tubes wont fit in i will be using a sleeve.
Old 01-19-2010, 08:39 PM
  #196  
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not trying to be a dick just showing you why were confused(i.e. we re not lazy readers/retards)

Quote:
Originally Posted by massconfusion View Post
I read one of your original thread and that is awesome. I am curious about how you welded the 10 bolt tubes to the 8.8 housing though. it appears you didnt use any sleeves which leads me to believe that ethier the 10 bolt tubes are small enough to fit into the stumps off the 8.8 or you just butted them up agaist each other and their was enough steel in contact to get a good bead for the tubes. I will welding the tubes on just as you have and hopefully using a torque arm as well.
I talked to a welding supply house and they said that if the housing is cast iron to use a nickel plated electrode and preheat the area to be welded to approimately 500 degrees. I think if people are miging the housing though then it must be cast steel b/c cast iron is really shitty metal especially for welding

Below from randy

Don't remove the tubes from the 8.8 housing , cut them off about 3" from the housing. The 8.8 tubes are a little bigger than the 7.5 , Cut the tubes off the 7.5 as close as you can to the housing then slide them inside the 8.8 tubes to the desired length ,and weld them together. That's is what i done and has been there for over 4 years now, So i would say it works fine, and in my post (pic) above you can see it.
Old 01-20-2010, 06:25 AM
  #197  
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your correct that was my mistake, I was PMing another member on here who told me about the sleeves and thus had it mixed with this thread. So it seems like everyone is just prepping the housing properly and welding the T/A bracket to it? or are you guys heating it up to 500 degrees first and what rod is everyone using?
Old 01-21-2010, 03:50 PM
  #198  
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only a few guys are running the t/a setup which i might do or just go to a full ladder setup. If you weld the housing you are supposed to use a nickel rod. I guess their a few guys out their that migged theirs on. I can do ethier or but i just happen to be lazy and may mig it.
Old 01-21-2010, 10:18 PM
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well its good to hear, I am not even considering the ladder setup as it would not be considered "stock style suspension" and since I have access to stock it'll be free to make a bracket.
Old 01-22-2010, 05:59 PM
  #200  
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yea whats cool about t/a is it gives you the best of both worlds. I drag alot more than race around the mountains but i like my car to handle because it is still a street car. Ladder bars handle decent and hook great. I don't have time to machine the sleeves this weekend but will try next week or the weekend.


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