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Old 05-22-2010, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by xRelapse13
So, With an 8.8 housing, cut off 10 bolt axle tubes, I would just need the moser axles for a ford center section and fbody bolt pattern in addition to the carrier/dif etc.. Also, since the axle tubes are out of the 10 bolt, I'd be able to use LS1 brakes? Or is my reasoning wrong and i'm missing something?
You also have to figure out a torque arm mount, or go to a mini-ladder bar set up. Your brakes would fit since you are keeping the 10 bolt tubes. I still haven't gotten a real answer about how to keep ABS. I've asked in numerous threads....along with reading where others have asked, but no luck yet.
Old 05-22-2010, 05:57 AM
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The only way to keep ABS at this point is if you have a 4 channel rear end, the 4 channel cars have sensors at the end of each axel and since your keeping the 10 bolt tubes you'll be fine keeping abs and tcs. I have heard of someone trying to make an explorer rear end with a top mounted abs sensor work but I don't know how that went at all, but if you wanted to keep it with a 3 channel car you'd have to have the proper hole in the top of the housing for the sensor.
Old 05-22-2010, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by xRelapse13
So, With an 8.8 housing, cut off 10 bolt axle tubes, I would just need the moser axles for a ford center section and fbody bolt pattern in addition to the carrier/dif etc.. Also, since the axle tubes are out of the 10 bolt, I'd be able to use LS1 brakes? Or is my reasoning wrong and i'm missing something?
U would use the 8.8 center section and the 7.5 axel tubes and axels from the 7.5 so all your brakes would work.So the center section would be the 8.8's and everything from the outside the center section would be the 7.5's.the 7.5's axles will go into the 8.8's spider gears as long as there 28 spline which most 8.8's are except for the Explorer 8.8's.
Old 05-23-2010, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by xRelapse13
So, With an 8.8 housing, cut off 10 bolt axle tubes, I would just need the moser axles for a ford center section and fbody bolt pattern in addition to the carrier/dif etc.. Also, since the axle tubes are out of the 10 bolt, I'd be able to use LS1 brakes? Or is my reasoning wrong and i'm missing something?
you are correct.
Old 06-11-2010, 12:47 PM
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Old 06-22-2010, 04:05 PM
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Has anyone taken a look at the 8.5" 10 bolt for this swap? For example one that would have been used in a 4wd S10 Blazer.
Old 06-22-2010, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.L88
Has anyone taken a look at the 8.5" 10 bolt for this swap? For example one that would have been used in a 4wd S10 Blazer.
I happened to be under a C1500 the other day and was thinking the same thing. It had a 3 channel ABS system. Seems like that would be an easy way to go??
Old 06-22-2010, 06:06 PM
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It could be done, but you are still going to have to rig up something for your torque arm or go with the extra bracket on your control arm like the guy in this thread is doing.

I think most guys go with the 8.8 because you can get parts for them cheap, as that's what all the mustang guys run.
Old 06-23-2010, 09:37 AM
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I think if people looked outside of the "Normal" car envelope they would find that there are a lot of other cost effective options. For example, off road and circle track. I fail to understand how parts can still be so expensive for the F-Body's while other cars like the Mustang or G Body are more in line with realistic cost. Just take a look at a bare 9" housing and figure out why it would be so much more expensive to build a F-Body housing vs. a Mustang.
Old 06-23-2010, 12:02 PM
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hes trying to sell the setup
https://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-cla...ecialties.html
here you go roger maybe you can get it sold
Old 06-23-2010, 01:08 PM
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Yeah i think im going to convert my car to more street use and build a coupe mustang with a ls1 in it maybe even a turbo
Old 06-23-2010, 01:54 PM
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like a fox body?
Old 06-23-2010, 02:35 PM
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yeah i have had several never any that have been turbo and im relly liking the idea of that. I will be keeping my car for street duty
Old 06-23-2010, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.L88
Has anyone taken a look at the 8.5" 10 bolt for this swap? For example one that would have been used in a 4wd S10 Blazer.
Originally Posted by 1961ba427
I happened to be under a C1500 the other day and was thinking the same thing. It had a 3 channel ABS system. Seems like that would be an easy way to go??
For many years the 8.5 has been used,i prefer the 8.5 from 73-81 since they are beefier however the reason for not going the 8.5 route is the cost:
8.5" rear axle 8.8" rear axle
50-100.00 for assem. housing 50-150.00 for assem. housing
190.00 for gears 3.55-4.10s included
250-450.00 for LSD LSD included
340.00 custom axle length 340.00custom axles and length
140.00 upper arms w/heim joints 140.00 upper arms w/heim joints

this is a mild break down of actual cost.Please dont get me wrong i would PREFER using an 8.5'' rear to keep me all GM but as you can see saving a few hundred bucks is what we are doing here. ABS can be added to either you just need the parts,axles can be ordered with rings etc..
Old 06-23-2010, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 96lt1m6
For many years the 8.5 has been used,i prefer the 8.5 from 73-81 since they are beefier however the reason for not going the 8.5 route is the cost:
8.5" rear axle 8.8" rear axle
50-100.00 for assem. housing 50-150.00 for assem. housing
190.00 for gears 3.55-4.10s included
250-450.00 for LSD LSD included
340.00 custom axle length 340.00custom axles and length
140.00 upper arms w/heim joints 140.00 upper arms w/heim joints

this is a mild break down of actual cost.Please dont get me wrong i would PREFER using an 8.5'' rear to keep me all GM but as you can see saving a few hundred bucks is what we are doing here. ABS can be added to either you just need the parts,axles can be ordered with rings etc..
I agree with you as far as the cost break down, but the 8.8 is a stronger rear end than alot of people give it credit for. In reality they are as strong or stronger than a 12 bolt. Not saying that the 8.5 is weak, but its just not all that of a desirable rear.

BTW to the guy that mentioned the 8.5, the 4wd blazers came with a 7.5 just like the f-bodies, unless you have a fluke vehicle, but to my knowledge they were all 7.5s
Old 06-24-2010, 11:13 AM
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The 8.5 did come in some S10 4WD Blazers with a 4.3. Look for a 99 up disk brake 4.3 4wd blazer and they should have a 8.5/8.625 rear with disk brakes. They are 59 1/2" if I am not mistaken. I think the ZR2 option is 63" and has 30 Spline axles. Some of the ZR2's also have 3.73 gears. With a mini ladder bar set-up it might be worth a shot to check out.
Old 06-24-2010, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr.L88
The 8.5 did come in some S10 4WD Blazers with a 4.3. Look for a 99 up disk brake 4.3 4wd blazer and they should have a 8.5/8.625 rear with disk brakes. They are 59 1/2" if I am not mistaken. I think the ZR2 option is 63" and has 30 Spline axles. Some of the ZR2's also have 3.73 gears. With a mini ladder bar set-up it might be worth a shot to check out.
Interesting, I didn't know that and thanks for correcting me. If I didn't already have an 8.8 I would look into it, but the money has been spent.
Old 06-24-2010, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 96lt1m6
For many years the 8.5 has been used,i prefer the 8.5 from 73-81 since they are beefier however the reason for not going the 8.5 route is the cost:
8.5" rear axle 8.8" rear axle
50-100.00 for assem. housing 50-150.00 for assem. housing
190.00 for gears 3.55-4.10s included
250-450.00 for LSD LSD included
340.00 custom axle length 340.00custom axles and length
140.00 upper arms w/heim joints 140.00 upper arms w/heim joints

this is a mild break down of actual cost.Please dont get me wrong i would PREFER using an 8.5'' rear to keep me all GM but as you can see saving a few hundred bucks is what we are doing here. ABS can be added to either you just need the parts,axles can be ordered with rings etc..
I was thinking more along the lines of:
'80 Z28 8.5'' rearend complete (already have, but value is around $350)
3.42:1 gears included (other ratios used are cheap/new are no more than 8.8)
Positraction (3 series included)
Stock axles (fairly strong & already Chevy pattern)
Same deal on arms and heim joints
I would use the LT1 brakes and caliper brackets (they literally bolt-on)
Possibly get c-clip eliminators
2" aluminum bolt on wheel spacers (already have, but value is around $100)

Looks like about $600 give or take (plus the same amount of labor/welding as any other rearend swap) if you had to go out and buy the rearend and the wheel spacers. The rears are fairly common. All this also assumes a donor 7.5" for the brackets and brakes.
Old 06-24-2010, 01:42 PM
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I'd still like to find an 8.5" with a compatible ABS system and keep the 3 channel ABS functional though. Not sure if this would mean using a later model housing or if I could adapt things from the later one into the 80 rearend?
Old 06-24-2010, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 1961ba427
I'd still like to find an 8.5" with a compatible ABS system and keep the 3 channel ABS functional though. Not sure if this would mean using a later model housing or if I could adapt things from the later one into the 80 rearend?
That would be about the only reason that I would think about using one. Otherwise you could just weld housing ends on a cut down Dana 60 or 9". I have not seen a spool mentioned; but that is another option for some.


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