8.8 Build
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Humble Tx
i have no idea.. never messed with rangers. and to the other poster, think about it. mustangs have 8.8s and road race all day long. the key is either figuring out an efficient 4 link/ladder bar setup, or welding a torque arm base to the housing, which would give the same handling characteristics as stock. if you are using it for RR, definitely go the torque arm route.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
From: Eastland,Texas
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
From: Eastland,Texas
Those with 8.8's, how is the drive ability, and how does it handle? I won't go this route if it's going to handle like ****. I have the option to buy a fully rebuilt 8.8 for 150$ and im considering it, but nothings happening till I know it won't **** up my drive ability. I'm building this car more for road racing then drag.
ok so the explorer will not work but will the the crown vic rear end work? i say in a post earlier on in this thread some said it comes with a posi and 31 splines aswell and that is only like a 0.5 inch narrower?
I took a 92 Mustang 8.8 rearend , and took my 2000 f-body rearend and cut the axle tubes off my rear, at 3" from the stump, and welded them on the 8.8 rear and cut the upper control arm brackets off the 8.8 for clearance ,and made a torque arm bracket and welded it to the 8.8 , and got a 31 spline poss unit out of a Explorer, then had Mossier cut me a set of 31 spline axles with GM bolt circle and 4 channel ABS rings for my reluctor rings. Its been about 4 years now and still works grate, Except for the 31 spline poss unit, I keep blowing the clutches out ,so i got me a open carrier and installed a mini spool.
Heres a pic of the torque arm mount, that i use to build by. I found this on here back in 2004. https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...hink-pics.html
Last edited by Randy WS6; Aug 31, 2009 at 08:02 PM.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Well if anyone is interested, i did some test fitting today for LS1 brakes. This info is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate YET. Over the next week or so im going to actually mock up the brakes to be sure they fit.
1. Of course the bolts for the backing plate doesn't match up to the housing ends. You can either re-drill the backing plates or make an adapter plate. Im going to re-drill.
2. I measured from the outside edge of the caliper mount hole to the outside edge of the axle flange. This was with an axle from a 91 model drum brake car, so no abs. Then i measured the same distance on my 4 channel 10 bolt. The distance is the same, so this brings me to 2 conclusions.
A. If your not worried about ABS then you can use a stock length 79-93
fox body axle re-drilled with the 5x4.75 bolt pattern and be all set.
B. If you want to keep your ABS/TCS functioning you can use a 94-98 axle
machined for reluctor rings, and make a spacer to space out the backing
plate the same distance as the difference in axle length. That should
line up the caliper with the rotor.
If anyone has any input to this i'd love to hear it.
1. Of course the bolts for the backing plate doesn't match up to the housing ends. You can either re-drill the backing plates or make an adapter plate. Im going to re-drill.
2. I measured from the outside edge of the caliper mount hole to the outside edge of the axle flange. This was with an axle from a 91 model drum brake car, so no abs. Then i measured the same distance on my 4 channel 10 bolt. The distance is the same, so this brings me to 2 conclusions.
A. If your not worried about ABS then you can use a stock length 79-93
fox body axle re-drilled with the 5x4.75 bolt pattern and be all set.
B. If you want to keep your ABS/TCS functioning you can use a 94-98 axle
machined for reluctor rings, and make a spacer to space out the backing
plate the same distance as the difference in axle length. That should
line up the caliper with the rotor.
If anyone has any input to this i'd love to hear it.
Well if anyone is interested, i did some test fitting today for LS1 brakes. This info is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate YET. Over the next week or so im going to actually mock up the brakes to be sure they fit.
1. Of course the bolts for the backing plate doesn't match up to the housing ends. You can either re-drill the backing plates or make an adapter plate. Im going to re-drill.
2. I measured from the outside edge of the caliper mount hole to the outside edge of the axle flange. This was with an axle from a 91 model drum brake car, so no abs. Then i measured the same distance on my 4 channel 10 bolt. The distance is the same, so this brings me to 2 conclusions.
A. If your not worried about ABS then you can use a stock length 79-93
fox body axle re-drilled with the 5x4.75 bolt pattern and be all set.
B. If you want to keep your ABS/TCS functioning you can use a 94-98 axle
machined for reluctor rings, and make a spacer to space out the backing
plate the same distance as the difference in axle length. That should
line up the caliper with the rotor.
If anyone has any input to this i'd love to hear it.
1. Of course the bolts for the backing plate doesn't match up to the housing ends. You can either re-drill the backing plates or make an adapter plate. Im going to re-drill.
2. I measured from the outside edge of the caliper mount hole to the outside edge of the axle flange. This was with an axle from a 91 model drum brake car, so no abs. Then i measured the same distance on my 4 channel 10 bolt. The distance is the same, so this brings me to 2 conclusions.
A. If your not worried about ABS then you can use a stock length 79-93
fox body axle re-drilled with the 5x4.75 bolt pattern and be all set.
B. If you want to keep your ABS/TCS functioning you can use a 94-98 axle
machined for reluctor rings, and make a spacer to space out the backing
plate the same distance as the difference in axle length. That should
line up the caliper with the rotor.
If anyone has any input to this i'd love to hear it.
But on a side note I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow to see about a rear. I'm hoping I can pull it myself so I can yank apart a couple different ones and get what I need. Like a rear axle out of a ranger, with a center section out of an explorer, disk brakes from the explorer, and hopefully a set of 4.10 gears LOL and no axles for $100
What a bunch of retarded ********. I went to the junk yard today and asked how much for a rear axle from a ranger, ******** says $300, WTF I can buy a motor for $300 down there and now they want $300 for a rear end. They don't even give $50 for a complete vehicle if you drive it in to their yard and they expect $300 for a rear axle, thats just outragious.
I guess I'll keep looking, but I just had to vent, that pissed me off today.
I guess I'll keep looking, but I just had to vent, that pissed me off today.
What a bunch of retarded ********. I went to the junk yard today and asked how much for a rear axle from a ranger, ******** says $300, WTF I can buy a motor for $300 down there and now they want $300 for a rear end. They don't even give $50 for a complete vehicle if you drive it in to their yard and they expect $300 for a rear axle, thats just outragious.
I guess I'll keep looking, but I just had to vent, that pissed me off today.
I guess I'll keep looking, but I just had to vent, that pissed me off today.
I took a 92 Mustang 8.8 rearend , and took my 2000 f-body rearend and cut the axle tubes off my rear, at 3" from the stump, and welded them on the 8.8 rear and cut the upper control arm brackets off the 8.8 for clearance ,and made a torque arm bracket and welded it to the 8.8 , and got a 31 spline poss unit out of a Explorer, then had Mossier cut me a set of 31 spline axles with GM bolt circle and 4 channel ABS rings for my reluctor rings. Its been about 4 years now and still works grate, Except for the 31 spline poss unit, I keep blowing the clutches out ,so i got me a open carrier and installed a mini spool.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 367
Likes: 0
From: Eastland,Texas
Here is my second startup on my new setup today with open headers. It is a Patrick g spec cam and some used ls6 heads that have been hand cleaned, just blending the seats and cleaning them up pretty good nothing special 
95% of my parts are used 380 for the heads and 275 for the cam and piushrods, 50 for the jt performance double roller timing chain, 40 for the cometic gaskets, 80 for the arp headbolts, ported and shimmed ls1 pump and 280 for the ls6 intake. Grand total of $1105 not bad i do say so myself. I will get some better video this weekend sorry for the cellphone video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hUCUKNbQzg
95% of my parts are used
380 for the heads and 275 for the cam and piushrods, 50 for the jt performance double roller timing chain, 40 for the cometic gaskets, 80 for the arp headbolts, ported and shimmed ls1 pump and 280 for the ls6 intake. Grand total of $1105 not bad i do say so myself. I will get some better video this weekend sorry for the cellphone videohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hUCUKNbQzg
I got the housing for 50.00, there alot of mustangs guys around here so there plentiful, The Mossier axles at the time cost me $250.00, the gear is a Motive+ 4:30 $200.00 and the pos unit was $75.00, i had alot of time building a jig for the torque arm mount and bracket angle ,about 10 hours in it., and a lot of measuring. but i work in a fab shop and have all the tools. So in all i had around 625.00 , including new seals and axle bearings, gear oil.
Ok I take back my response about the ranger axle. They are offset just like the explorers, I guess to do a 4 to 5 lug swap on a mustang you need 2 left side axles out of a 7.5 rear end and the brakes. I thought since you could swap axles I could use a ranger rear end, but you can only swap the one side and make them work.
So the hunt continues
unless someone on here knows of one in south western Wisconsin LOL but I'm not counting on that.
So the hunt continues
unless someone on here knows of one in south western Wisconsin LOL but I'm not counting on that. Update guys,
Ive got the upper control arms, ive got a '00 crown vic differential, ordered axles from moser, and ive got a 31 spline 4:10 trac-lok unit.
Diff housing was $50, tracloc/gears was $30. Axles are $295 from moser.
Axles are stock crown vic width in 31spline, with 5x4.75 bolt pattern. ill build the diff up over the winter.
Ive got SFC's in my car, im going to make sure the LCA's chassis bolt point is welded solid. Ill stitch weld the frame portion to the body, and then make sure ive got lots of weld holding the SFC end to the body. So i know mine will be plenty strong there.
Im torn whether i use stock LCA's & box them/re-enforce the welds on each end with poly bushings, or pick up some lakewood LCA's and weld my brackets to them.
Ive got the upper control arms, ive got a '00 crown vic differential, ordered axles from moser, and ive got a 31 spline 4:10 trac-lok unit.
Diff housing was $50, tracloc/gears was $30. Axles are $295 from moser.
Axles are stock crown vic width in 31spline, with 5x4.75 bolt pattern. ill build the diff up over the winter.
Ive got SFC's in my car, im going to make sure the LCA's chassis bolt point is welded solid. Ill stitch weld the frame portion to the body, and then make sure ive got lots of weld holding the SFC end to the body. So i know mine will be plenty strong there.
Im torn whether i use stock LCA's & box them/re-enforce the welds on each end with poly bushings, or pick up some lakewood LCA's and weld my brackets to them.
I'm hopefully getting my housing by the end of the week. Then I'll be hitting up the completely outragiously over priced junkyards to try to find an explorer with 4.10s and a 31 spline carrier.
If anyone needs the axle tabs PM me I found a really cheap place online to get them.
If anyone needs the axle tabs PM me I found a really cheap place online to get them.