tribaltalon

i have no idea.. never messed with rangers. and to the other poster, think about it. mustangs have 8.8s and road race all day long. the key is either figuring out an efficient 4 link/ladder bar setup, or welding a torque arm base to the housing, which would give the same handling characteristics as stock. if you are using it for RR, definitely go the torque arm route.

98silvertacrbn

iTrader: (106)

i think the offset of the ranger is the same as a mustang since you can use the axles out of a ranger in a mustang

98silvertacrbn

iTrader: (106)

If your going to be road racing i wouldnt upgrade the 10 bolt should be fine for what you want to do!

whitelt1ta

iTrader: (21)

ok so the explorer will not work but will the the crown vic rear end work? i say in a post earlier on in this thread some said it comes with a posi and 31 splines aswell and that is only like a 0.5 inch narrower?

fortmyerspolice

iTrader: (7)

Problem is, with my cam going in next week, I don't think the 10 bolt will like my hard 1-2 shift

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

I took a 92 Mustang 8.8 rearend , and took my 2000 f-body rearend and cut the axle tubes off my rear, at 3" from the stump, and welded them on the 8.8 rear and cut the upper control arm brackets off the 8.8 for clearance ,and made a torque arm bracket and welded it to the 8.8 , and got a 31 spline poss unit out of a Explorer, then had Mossier cut me a set of 31 spline axles with GM bolt circle and 4 channel ABS rings for my reluctor rings. Its been about 4 years now and still works grate, Except for the 31 spline poss unit, I keep blowing the clutches out ,so i got me a open carrier and installed a mini spool.

tribaltalon

randy, i still want to see your torque arm mount... take some pics!!! thanks

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

Heres a pic of the torque arm mount, that i use to build by. I found this on here back in 2004. https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...hink-pics.html

adam1803

iTrader: (65)

Well if anyone is interested, i did some test fitting today for LS1 brakes. This info is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate YET. Over the next week or so im going to actually mock up the brakes to be sure they fit.

1. Of course the bolts for the backing plate doesn't match up to the housing ends. You can either re-drill the backing plates or make an adapter plate. Im going to re-drill.

2. I measured from the outside edge of the caliper mount hole to the outside edge of the axle flange. This was with an axle from a 91 model drum brake car, so no abs. Then i measured the same distance on my 4 channel 10 bolt. The distance is the same, so this brings me to 2 conclusions.

A. If your not worried about ABS then you can use a stock length 79-93
fox body axle re-drilled with the 5x4.75 bolt pattern and be all set.

B. If you want to keep your ABS/TCS functioning you can use a 94-98 axle
machined for reluctor rings, and make a spacer to space out the backing
plate the same distance as the difference in axle length. That should
line up the caliper with the rotor.



If anyone has any input to this i'd love to hear it.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Only downside that I see for you is that the drum brake fox bodies have axles that are .75" shorter than the 94+ cars. Meaning instead of ending up with a rear axle thats 4" narrower, you would have a rear thats 5.5" shorter than the stock rear. Its not really a ig deal if your getting custom offset wheels anyway, but one more thing to consider.

But on a side note I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow to see about a rear. I'm hoping I can pull it myself so I can yank apart a couple different ones and get what I need. Like a rear axle out of a ranger, with a center section out of an explorer, disk brakes from the explorer, and hopefully a set of 4.10 gears LOL and no axles for $100

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

What a bunch of retarded ********. I went to the junk yard today and asked how much for a rear axle from a ranger, ******** says $300, WTF I can buy a motor for $300 down there and now they want $300 for a rear end. They don't even give $50 for a complete vehicle if you drive it in to their yard and they expect $300 for a rear axle, thats just outragious.

I guess I'll keep looking, but I just had to vent, that pissed me off today.

PlatnumStatuz

iTrader: (6)

I think used parts are gonna go up in general @ part yards in the future- cuz of the "cash for clunkers" deal

PlatnumStatuz

iTrader: (6)

How much did it cost to build that? How much for the axles?

98silvertacrbn

iTrader: (106)

My axle from moser was 290 shipped!

98silvertacrbn

iTrader: (106)

Here is my second startup on my new setup today with open headers. It is a Patrick g spec cam and some used ls6 heads that have been hand cleaned, just blending the seats and cleaning them up pretty good nothing special
95% of my parts are used 380 for the heads and 275 for the cam and piushrods, 50 for the jt performance double roller timing chain, 40 for the cometic gaskets, 80 for the arp headbolts, ported and shimmed ls1 pump and 280 for the ls6 intake. Grand total of $1105 not bad i do say so myself. I will get some better video this weekend sorry for the cellphone video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hUCUKNbQzg

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

I got the housing for 50.00, there alot of mustangs guys around here so there plentiful, The Mossier axles at the time cost me $250.00, the gear is a Motive+ 4:30 $200.00 and the pos unit was $75.00, i had alot of time building a jig for the torque arm mount and bracket angle ,about 10 hours in it., and a lot of measuring. but i work in a fab shop and have all the tools. So in all i had around 625.00 , including new seals and axle bearings, gear oil.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Ok I take back my response about the ranger axle. They are offset just like the explorers, I guess to do a 4 to 5 lug swap on a mustang you need 2 left side axles out of a 7.5 rear end and the brakes. I thought since you could swap axles I could use a ranger rear end, but you can only swap the one side and make them work.

So the hunt continues unless someone on here knows of one in south western Wisconsin LOL but I'm not counting on that.

91ZLS6

iTrader: (2)

Update guys,

Ive got the upper control arms, ive got a '00 crown vic differential, ordered axles from moser, and ive got a 31 spline 4:10 trac-lok unit.

Diff housing was $50, tracloc/gears was $30. Axles are $295 from moser.

Axles are stock crown vic width in 31spline, with 5x4.75 bolt pattern. ill build the diff up over the winter.

Ive got SFC's in my car, im going to make sure the LCA's chassis bolt point is welded solid. Ill stitch weld the frame portion to the body, and then make sure ive got lots of weld holding the SFC end to the body. So i know mine will be plenty strong there.

Im torn whether i use stock LCA's & box them/re-enforce the welds on each end with poly bushings, or pick up some lakewood LCA's and weld my brackets to them.

LS1BLKSS

iTrader: (36)

sweet build!!!! start building these and ship them out!!!

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I'm hopefully getting my housing by the end of the week. Then I'll be hitting up the completely outragiously over priced junkyards to try to find an explorer with 4.10s and a 31 spline carrier.

If anyone needs the axle tabs PM me I found a really cheap place online to get them.