s60 question
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: Snellville
s60 question Im leaning towards the s60 after reading a bunch of post about them. I have a few questions:
1. Will I have to get a new drive shaft?
2. When people say its a direct bolt-in, is it exactly that? No strings attached?
3. Do they come already built with the proper backlashing and everything else installed? Or does that depend on the retailer?
4. Can I put a posi in there? My 10 bolt has 4:10 with a locker and there is a grind when I shift under normal driving. I think this is the cause of it "I have seen some problems with a locker with manual transmissions. Sometimes the extra drivetrain slop that is inherit with a locker causes the manual transmission and part throttle to want to grind when going into gear. At wide open throttle it is not a problem, but it can be at part throttle.?
5. How much are they on average?
I will come up with more questions.
1. Will I have to get a new drive shaft?
2. When people say its a direct bolt-in, is it exactly that? No strings attached?
3. Do they come already built with the proper backlashing and everything else installed? Or does that depend on the retailer?
4. Can I put a posi in there? My 10 bolt has 4:10 with a locker and there is a grind when I shift under normal driving. I think this is the cause of it "I have seen some problems with a locker with manual transmissions. Sometimes the extra drivetrain slop that is inherit with a locker causes the manual transmission and part throttle to want to grind when going into gear. At wide open throttle it is not a problem, but it can be at part throttle.?
5. How much are they on average?
I will come up with more questions.
1. Yes
2. Bolt-In = Bolt-In the only custom thing you will need is a driveshaft.
3. Yes
4. You can get a Trac-Lok, Detroit Locker or a Truetrac installed from Strange.
5. $2,300+ (according to Strange's website)
2. Bolt-In = Bolt-In the only custom thing you will need is a driveshaft.
3. Yes
4. You can get a Trac-Lok, Detroit Locker or a Truetrac installed from Strange.
5. $2,300+ (according to Strange's website)
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the S60 is a tank! The thing is heavy, but you can throw everything under the kitchen sink at it, and not have to worry much. Ive got one under mine with a detroit locker and 4.10's, 35 splines. Thing is SOLID!
I just installed mine a few days ago and I am still breaking it in. It fits great. If you're not lowered then you might want to do the heater hose mod on the springs so you don't end up jacking up the rear. I did the H/H mod and it sits dead level, so without it I imagine it would have sat about 1/2" higher.
You'll need to paint it. I hit mine with a normal gray primer then used some flat black krylon rust paint. One can of each is plenty. Before you paint it you should also clean all the oil/film off of it. You can use the green can of CRC brake cleaner for that, just make sure its the non chloritaned stuff, i.e. not the red can.
What does everyone use to clean out the inside for their first fluid change? Brake cleaner too harsh?
So far mine is quiet. I ended up getting a truetrac with 4.10 gears and a chrome-moly yolk.
The only area that I had to work on to get it to "bolt right up" was the yolk/driveshaft ujoint. I orderd a driveshaft thru midwest chassis and the ujoint in the driveshaft didn't want to fit into the yolk. A little file to "knock the shine" off the end of the Ujoint and some light filing inside the yolk and it slid right in.
Oh, I should also point out that I broke the sway bar endlinks when I took the sway bar off. No big deal as Advance Auto Parts keeps some Moog endlinks with poly bushings in stock, and they're cheap too. Expect to break yours if you've got some miles on them.
I can't wait to beat on mine!
You'll need to paint it. I hit mine with a normal gray primer then used some flat black krylon rust paint. One can of each is plenty. Before you paint it you should also clean all the oil/film off of it. You can use the green can of CRC brake cleaner for that, just make sure its the non chloritaned stuff, i.e. not the red can.
What does everyone use to clean out the inside for their first fluid change? Brake cleaner too harsh?
So far mine is quiet. I ended up getting a truetrac with 4.10 gears and a chrome-moly yolk.
The only area that I had to work on to get it to "bolt right up" was the yolk/driveshaft ujoint. I orderd a driveshaft thru midwest chassis and the ujoint in the driveshaft didn't want to fit into the yolk. A little file to "knock the shine" off the end of the Ujoint and some light filing inside the yolk and it slid right in.
Oh, I should also point out that I broke the sway bar endlinks when I took the sway bar off. No big deal as Advance Auto Parts keeps some Moog endlinks with poly bushings in stock, and they're cheap too. Expect to break yours if you've got some miles on them.
I can't wait to beat on mine!
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 245
Likes: 1
From: Illinois
If you have further questions, call Strange Engineering, they will be glad to help you out with answering any questions on an S60 rear end.
I can't wait to get one once I start my new job and project.
I can't wait to get one once I start my new job and project.
nice to see they seemed to work out the "noisy" issue they were having.
how much heavier is the rear?
compared to the 10bolt? 12 bolt? ford 9"??
whats nice is they dont suck up as much hp/tq compred to the other rears. one is in the plans for my car....someday
how much heavier is the rear?
compared to the 10bolt? 12 bolt? ford 9"??
whats nice is they dont suck up as much hp/tq compred to the other rears. one is in the plans for my car....someday
Now I've heard it's heavier than a 12-bolt, lighter than a 9" but uses less power than BOTH of them?
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 245
Likes: 1
From: Illinois
Here are the results from the Car Craft article.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...o_results.html
I really don't think that power loss is an issue if you're fixing your problems with an S60. Besides, cars have been trapping higher speeds with S60's anyway, despite the marginal loss in power. It would take at least 10% loss in power before I'd consider a new option, but that's just me. So far though the only way I can even tell that it's even back there is by how much noise it isn't making compared to my 10 bolt.
