DR's with stock 10 bolt
01-04-2010, 12:15 AM
#2
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you should be alright since you have an auto but you also have a set of gears it could go ethier way to be honest. what kinda mileage you got and how bad do you romp on it?
01-04-2010, 12:21 AM
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i run 555rs on my stock 10 bolt with 373s and its fine...honestly nittos arent that sticky..By far way better than most other regular tires...but there not MT or hoosier...you will be fine.
01-04-2010, 12:27 AM
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I ran DRs for 5k miles racing every weekend, no problems just a little whine. put the street tires back on it then blew the rear that very night.
they suck no matter what, its alot to do with driving style, miles, and how much power you got.
some guys pull it off, some don't.
they suck no matter what, its alot to do with driving style, miles, and how much power you got.
some guys pull it off, some don't.
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01-04-2010, 03:45 PM
#9
i daily drove on bfg drag radials with the stock 10 bolt for a while. lots of dead hook launches and 1-2 shifts with no torque management and no issues. i have similar mods apart from gears.
01-04-2010, 09:44 PM
#13
Being a auto you should be fine, have a buddy who was cutting 1.6 60' on his. I have about 10 1.7's on my 10 bolt on m/t street radials and its still pretty quiet. If you drive hard things will break hard, just because you have sticky tires dosent mean you can dump the clutch!
01-05-2010, 08:38 AM
#14
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The Auto has alot to do with "saving" the rear, due to the "preload mesh".
I too had a Torsen unit as shown in the above Carnage, but when mine took a dump at the Track with 32k miles on it, I really couldn't bitch. It started clunking when I turned onto the return road after a 1/4 mile pass, but I still was able to drive the car home 60 miles and a little bit more until my Carbon Clutch type Eaton Posi came in.
Gears were fine.
Just the worm gears in the Posi had small chips in them.
I've been driving my Formula with BFG's, then M&H & finally Nitto Extremes. (I'm on my 2nd set of 315/35x17's). It's been about 10k miles now on DR's always, otherwise the car is not fun to drive. It's like driving on a Frozen Pond if you try to hit it on the 275/40x17 Goodyear F1's I have on my Speedlines...lol
I put the Street Tires back on on a few weeks ago while waiting for my second pair of Nitto's, and it was just as rediculous as it was when I had Michelin Pilot Sports on it a couple of years ago.
Stay away from a GM "Gov-Lok" type Eaton.
The Torsen units are not rebuildable that I've been able to find out, and are better suited to Road Racing.
After the Eaton Carbon Clutch type, you might look at the Auburn. JMO.
It's borrowed time with these things.
Being Auto, & making sure the backlash, & carrier side measurments are all within .005-.008 will help you a bit. I used Timken Carrier Bearings/Races, and have a T/A Girdle.
With the Nitto's I Run high 11's in cooler air with 1.65-1.67 60 fts. These 315/35x17's are a 'lil wider and so work better believe it or not than the BFG 255/50x16's I had, and as good as the M&H 275/55x16 DR's I now have for sale. (28"x9").
Good Luck
I too had a Torsen unit as shown in the above Carnage, but when mine took a dump at the Track with 32k miles on it, I really couldn't bitch. It started clunking when I turned onto the return road after a 1/4 mile pass, but I still was able to drive the car home 60 miles and a little bit more until my Carbon Clutch type Eaton Posi came in.
Gears were fine.
Just the worm gears in the Posi had small chips in them.
I've been driving my Formula with BFG's, then M&H & finally Nitto Extremes. (I'm on my 2nd set of 315/35x17's). It's been about 10k miles now on DR's always, otherwise the car is not fun to drive. It's like driving on a Frozen Pond if you try to hit it on the 275/40x17 Goodyear F1's I have on my Speedlines...lol
I put the Street Tires back on on a few weeks ago while waiting for my second pair of Nitto's, and it was just as rediculous as it was when I had Michelin Pilot Sports on it a couple of years ago.
Stay away from a GM "Gov-Lok" type Eaton.
The Torsen units are not rebuildable that I've been able to find out, and are better suited to Road Racing.
After the Eaton Carbon Clutch type, you might look at the Auburn. JMO.
It's borrowed time with these things.
Being Auto, & making sure the backlash, & carrier side measurments are all within .005-.008 will help you a bit. I used Timken Carrier Bearings/Races, and have a T/A Girdle.
With the Nitto's I Run high 11's in cooler air with 1.65-1.67 60 fts. These 315/35x17's are a 'lil wider and so work better believe it or not than the BFG 255/50x16's I had, and as good as the M&H 275/55x16 DR's I now have for sale. (28"x9").
Good Luck