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my beefy 10 bolt build...(W/pix)

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Old 01-29-2010, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by cambirdracing
Not really on a torque arm set up. Only if the rotational load is outside the center section.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...ing-worth.html
I beg to differ; a bit. Yes, the rotational load is taken by the torque arm, but the pushing of the car is done by the LCA's and its mounts and therefore the tubes. Granted the bolt location isn't that far off the axis of the axles, it's still taking the grunt of twisting about the axles. However, it's the parts inside that break mostly
Old 01-29-2010, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 223HAWK
I just did all that to mine..Dont put slicks on it or youll be lookin for a new rear..I should have just bought a rearend when mine broke the first time..

I bought the axle brace kit from LPW even..

fawkn 10bolts..
I agree, but at my HP level Im not too worried

Joe
Old 01-29-2010, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Mean Green z28
I beg to differ; a bit. Yes, the rotational load is taken by the torque arm, but the pushing of the car is done by the LCA's and its mounts and therefore the tubes. Granted the bolt location isn't that far off the axis of the axles, it's still taking the grunt of twisting about the axles. However, it's the parts inside that break mostly
We could go on with this subject for years and never get a good answer. I believe on these cars no, BUT it's not going to hurt if you do. Just a waste of time and money. It's going to take a lot more than pushing the car forward to twist the tubes than it's worth. I have seen 9 sec ladder bar cars not twist the tubes, but I have seen 11 sec cars rotate them in the housing.
Old 01-29-2010, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by cambirdracing
We could go on with this subject for years and never get a good answer. I believe on these cars no, BUT it's not going to hurt if you do. Just a waste of time and money. It's going to take a lot more than pushing the car forward to twist the tubes than it's worth. I have seen 9 sec ladder bar cars not twist the tubes, but I have seen 11 sec cars rotate them in the housing.
He will need to worry about shearing all the teeth off the ring and pinion before this happens but I always heard that welding the tubes will help.
Old 01-29-2010, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by redtail2426
i sure hope it holds up for you,its risky throwing any money into a 10 bolt
Less so on an auto though.
Old 01-31-2010, 09:59 AM
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hmm beefy ten bolt, sounds like a more expensive grenade, ive been breaking these since third gens, as a matter of fact i got one in my 81 cutlass that im waiting to break, damn posi keeps opening up, so i can put the 8.5 442 rear in

when i was younger i used to have a pile of 7.5 3.73s and lockers out 4x4 s-10s, cause knew it was only a matter of time, junkyards are great if u know what to look for

Last edited by 98TA_vert; 01-31-2010 at 10:09 AM.
Old 01-31-2010, 11:33 AM
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Looks good, as some local guys keep tellin me for putting a 10 bolt back in my car, sprinkle some holy water on it before each pass

if yours is an auto it will have much better chances of surviving.
Old 02-03-2010, 09:58 PM
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I will add I am still on a 10 bolt
( have a 9"/detroit locker/4.11 on the ground ready to go in.)



now lets see if I can add it all up
my A4/stalled/10 bolt

ta cover/stud kit (140.00)
detroit locker (525.00)
3.73 (200.00)
mos axels (250.00)
welded tubes (nc)
mt drag radals (300.00)
air bags (50.00)
adjust ta on body mount(250.00)
relocate brackets (nc)
adjust lca (200.00)
adj phb (100.00)
all labor (nc)
all added a nickel and a dime at a time

heck of a lot of money in a 10 bolt

I do not want to add it up/all this in a 10 bolt running mid 11'
Johnny

Last edited by SS SLP2; 02-05-2010 at 05:48 AM.




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