Jon87transam

iTrader: (1)

ok, i have searched and found numerous results. here is how i drive my car:
-rarely drive, a non-DD, approx 1000 miles a year or less
-previous owner took to strip, i do not. i might later on, but would be no more than twice a year if i would go.
-so far no major bolt-ons, but some are planned in the near future (H/C/I and supporting mods-clutch, suspension, and better wheels/tires)
-cant afford different rear, i have about $800 to work with.
-car has 7100 miles so bearings, torsen unit, axles and such should be in like new condition.
-don't drive long distances, but prefer car to run as good as possible wherever i go.
-car will have stud main caps and girdle cover.
-i hope for around 500rwh (who doesn't?) but i plan on having at least 450 when finished.
-i normally skip shift (1-3-5-6) anyway for NORMAL driving if i use 6th at all.
-not too concerned about fuel mileage given rarely driven
-car will never have slicks, but may run the drag radials when finished.

here are my questions:
-will i notice/regret a 3.73?
-will i hate 4.10?
-do i need to go to a clutch type carrier or will the torsen work for my needs? that would save some major cash for other mods
-if i use org. torsen carrier, do i really need to put new bearings on given such low mileage?
-do i need relocation brackets?
-stock axles ok?
-do i need to use a solid pinion spacer?
-do i need a stronger pinion yoke?
-stock driveshaft ok?

i am not looking to start a fight like a previous thread that i just read through (7 pages?). i know enough how ratios work to satisfy myself. i am just looking/researching ways to make my car better for me without wasting anymore money than needed. as a side note, i have a 99 suburban (old school body) 2wd with 454, 4L80 and 4.10 (14 bolt 10.5") and i love them. i will openly take all feedback and thank you for your help.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

interesting post,lot of questions !

M6 + LCA re-los + Drag radials = rearend breakage.

And you also want to up your horsepower!

You currently have 3.42s',you will notice a difference with 3.73s',you will regret you didn't get 4.10s' because you're not concerned about mpg. An M6 with 4.10s' gets good mpg,mpg is right foot dependent.
Since you're staying with the 10 bolt,any carrier will be weak.
When you put the gears in,the bearings can be inspected then and replaced as needed.
Do you need LCA re-los,only if you want better launch traction.
Going to aftermarket axles,solid pinion spacer,stronger pinion yoke,and a stronger driveshaft will do nothing to strengthen the weak 10 bolt.

Jon87transam

iTrader: (1)

right on, i figured i would prolly go 4.10. i don't plan on any sticky tires until the very last mod, which might be several years (5+) down the road. i figure if i keep the tires spinning, the 10 bolt will survive. i guess i have a lot of questions for one thread, but really just wanting to know if any of the other listed parts have a high failure rate besides the 10 bolt. basically from what it sounds like, the rear will prolly go before shaft, yoke, etc. any other thoughts?

Predator

I'd just stay put until I could I do it right meaning wait until you have the cash for either a 12-bolt or 9" with 4.10s. You're just gonna cause yourself a lot of headaches plus wasting cash you could put towards a stouter rearend. JMHO.

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

This is great, but he has given the fullest details about driving i have seen on here.

I would go with 4.10's. You can install 4.10's for probably 50-100 bucks over cost by doing it yourself or with some wrench turner local. You can usually grab a set for like 150 on the FS section.

You could also look into a 8.8 set-up.

But i think all of your stock bearings, axles and everything will do just fine.

Jon87transam

iTrader: (1)

thanks, i figured my bearings would be ok. i forgot to mention that i'm also on my 2nd diff oil change, so the bearings have had nothing but the freshest oil to run in. should i go GM gears, or motive? from my research they seem to be the quietest. i do plan on a self install, i need to learn how to do this. i still plan to use a solid pinion spacer b/c from what i've read, it may keep the bearing preload more consistant especially due to shock from a m6.

in know from everybody elses trouble on here that a 10 bolt is weak. but given my finances i have to work with, plus no more than i honestly drive this car, i feel a 10 bolt will hold up for years. besides, i personally like to see and smell tire smoke much more than hooking **** and going straight. i enjoy powerslides and donuts way too much!!! in drag racing there is always going to be someone faster than you. i get my enjoyment by going to an empty lot with some friends and showing them a good time doing circles and smelling tire smoke. i think my 10 bolt will do fine for that long as the tires keep spinning. only reason for maybe going to the track is to see how much faster car is after all mods are finished. i can compare them to the time slips that previous owner gave me with the car to check my improvements. i appreciate all the help.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Just as mpg is right foot dependent,quiet gears are setup dependent.

Since you want to do it yourself,a few threads down in 'difficulty of replacing pinion and carrier bearings',01ssreda4 provided 5 links to self-install.