Is this factory Pinion Play normal?
#1
Is this factory Pinion Play normal?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hb88ILPaqQ
Can someone tell me if this is normal? To me for whatever reason it doesnt look right? Would this cause the whine as seen in my other thread?
This is the factory set up rear end torsen diff. I just pulled the cover off and am trying to determine the high pitched whine that im getting.
Thanks guys
Can someone tell me if this is normal? To me for whatever reason it doesnt look right? Would this cause the whine as seen in my other thread?
This is the factory set up rear end torsen diff. I just pulled the cover off and am trying to determine the high pitched whine that im getting.
Thanks guys
#2
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It does look like way to much, however I have never held the ring still and looked at the pinion. I always do it the opposite way, I hold the pinion and rock the ring gear. For this to be accurate, you really need a dial indicator. Its measured in thousandths of an inch, so the naked eye would be incapable of seeing the variations. It does look excessive though, however it would help if you made another video while holding the pinion and rocking the ring gear.
#3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCLePhZYHRA
the carrier seems to kind be hard to rotate is that normal? like the carrier preload seems kinda tough but ive never worked on rear ends so who knows..
pinion preload is on the crush sleeve correct? what determines carrier preload on our 10 bolts?
thank 01ssreda4 .. can u peek at my other thread on the "help identify noise" i appreciate your input man.. im such a noob when it comes to this but im learning a lot
the carrier seems to kind be hard to rotate is that normal? like the carrier preload seems kinda tough but ive never worked on rear ends so who knows..
pinion preload is on the crush sleeve correct? what determines carrier preload on our 10 bolts?
thank 01ssreda4 .. can u peek at my other thread on the "help identify noise" i appreciate your input man.. im such a noob when it comes to this but im learning a lot
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Yes, as the crush sleeve is crushed, it allows the two pinion bearings to squeeze tighter on their respective races, therefor increasing the force or preload thats exerted against them. This causes more friction, heat, tightness, and makes them harder to turn. You change preload during the initial tightening of the pinion nut. As it gets tighter, the crush sleeve crushes allowing the preload to increase. You stop tightening at the point of correct preload. Which is typically 20-25 inch/pounds of rotational drag weight measured from spinning the pinion. If you go too far, the crush sleeve must be thrown away and you have to start over.
#5
sounds good.. just pulled the pinion bearing off.. i cant really see a difference in the new and old bearings is that normal ha? also will i absolutely need a press for that bearing or can i use a pipe that fits the inside of the bearing exactly..
shops are about to start closing soon.. everyone wants 30-40 bucks to press it on to.. and would have charged 15 to take it off.. ?? in chicago i know i can get it done for 10 bucks.. overinflated prices imo
shops are about to start closing soon.. everyone wants 30-40 bucks to press it on to.. and would have charged 15 to take it off.. ?? in chicago i know i can get it done for 10 bucks.. overinflated prices imo
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sounds good.. just pulled the pinion bearing off.. i cant really see a difference in the new and old bearings is that normal ha? also will i absolutely need a press for that bearing or can i use a pipe that fits the inside of the bearing exactly..
shops are about to start closing soon.. everyone wants 30-40 bucks to press it on to.. and would have charged 15 to take it off.. ?? in chicago i know i can get it done for 10 bucks.. overinflated prices imo
shops are about to start closing soon.. everyone wants 30-40 bucks to press it on to.. and would have charged 15 to take it off.. ?? in chicago i know i can get it done for 10 bucks.. overinflated prices imo
Holy **** 30 or 40 bucks to press on a pinion bearing??? I would just take it to a machine shop and let them remove the old one. Yes you can hammer the new one on with some pipe. Just make sure the pipe isn't touching the cage and your good.
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#8
yea thats exactly what im gonna do.. last question for you guys.. looking at the videos above.. my stock rear end has a pinion shim stack of "34" but i measure it to be 33.. should i throw in a shim size of 36 in there to tighthen it up towards the ring gear as per video above? or should i just throw in the stock shim
muchas gracias for all the help!
muchas gracias for all the help!
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Im at work so I cant see any of your videos. Reuse the factory pinion shim.
On a side note if the pinion shim is a factory piece it should be just one shim, not a stack of them.
On a side note if the pinion shim is a factory piece it should be just one shim, not a stack of them.
#10
i called it a stack but it was just one.. will the 3/100 make a difference? the factory was a 34 but was worn down to 33 so i was thinking of putting in a 36.. to move the pinion slightly closer so the backlash was slightly less if the 36 would even do a difference..
can i mock up without using the new crush sleeve just to see if the slop changed at all.. im probably being paranoid though ha!!
can i mock up without using the new crush sleeve just to see if the slop changed at all.. im probably being paranoid though ha!!
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The backlash is wayyyyyy too wide. I cannot tell the condition of the teeth on the gear. Has anyone worked on this diff before? Pinion depth should stay at .034" if you have not changed the ring and pinion.
Jeff
Jeff
#14
still whines.. i suck.. gonna look for a stock rear end to drop in..
if the new rear end that i buy doesnt have traction control can i bolt of my stuff and swap axle tubes?
if the new rear end that i buy doesnt have traction control can i bolt of my stuff and swap axle tubes?