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changing pinion seal on 10 bolt

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Old 07-14-2010, 01:23 PM
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Default changing pinion seal on 10 bolt

I just put 3.90s in my 10 bolt and after running it on jack stands for a min to make sure everything was ok I noticed the pinion seal leaking fluid. Can I just take the nut and yoke off and change the seal without having to take the pinion and everything back out?
Old 07-14-2010, 01:36 PM
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Yes. Thats how I did mine.
Old 07-14-2010, 01:42 PM
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just make sure you mark where the nut is on the pinion, so that it will be to the same specs. also if there are any grooves on the yoke make sure to polish them out. and i would highly recommend getting a national seal. they have lasted the longest for me.

here is a alittle tip. put some sillicone around the lip of the seal before you put it in, that will also help with any future leaks.
Old 07-14-2010, 01:55 PM
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BAM! Exactly how I did mine. Just be sure to tighten it good. A little past your mark would be ideal.

1.Drain your gear oil out because it will leak when you pull the pinion seal
2.Get the rear of the car as high as you can to prevent tranny fluid from dripping out when you pull the driveshaft. I put the jackstands on the frame and let the rear hang just because it is easier to get at the seal this way.(You could leave the DS in the tranny but it is just in the way IMO)
3.Use an 11mm socket to take off bolts on rear of driveshaft.
4.Drop rear of driveshaft down and pull it out towards the back. (Thats the only way I could get mine out because the 3' Magnaflow was in the way up by the transmission)
5.Mark the nut and yoke with a punch or even paint so you know where it was tightened to. Also mark the orientation of the yoke so you can line everything up when you put it back together.
6.Use 1.25" socket to take off pinion nut.
7.Pull yoke off pinion.
8.Use seal puller to pop out old seal. I tried prying mine out with a screwdriver for 30min and didn't succeed. Seal puller popped it out in 2sec.
9.Clean EVERYTHING as good as you can! I used brake cleaner sprayed on a rag and wiped everything I could...housing for seal, pinion, nut, washer.
10.Here I used Permatex #2 non hardening sealant and smeared it around the seal where it met the housing.
11.Lube rubber on new seal with gear oil and tap it in as evenly as you can with a hammer and piece of wood. Or heck if you have something the same diameter as the seal and that would keep it even too as long as it goes in straight and even.
12.Here I also smeared Permatex on the splines on the pinion and pressed the yoke on with my hands.
13.With the yoke on I also put sealant on the washer and blue loctite on the nut and tightened everything up. MAKE SURE YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS!!!
14.Refill with gear oil and posi additive and throw driveshaft back on and thats it, your done! You might possibly want to let it sit a few hours for the sealant to cure.
Old 07-14-2010, 04:35 PM
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As this method has been done on several occasions it is not the correct way to change the seal. Every time you pull the pinion nut you should be changing the crush sleeve, unless you built it with a solid spacer kit. Other wise how do you know what your pinion preload is and if it is too tight or too loose. I garuntee that it will not be the same as when you take it off by setting it blind like that. We would do it at customer request only but offer absolutely no warranty.

Jeff
Old 07-30-2010, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by davidz
I just put 3.90s in my 10 bolt and after running it on jack stands for a min to make sure everything was ok I noticed the pinion seal leaking fluid. Can I just take the nut and yoke off and change the seal without having to take the pinion and everything back out?
I am in the middle of a problem with my pinion & differential after having a shop replace the pinion seal and screwing up the pinion preload. I now have a copy of the Dealers procedure to do it the correct way compliments of a local Chevrolet Dealer. I would post the Dealers procedure if I had a scanner.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...ocal-shop.html



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