Do I need that? Right now I'm a cam only car. I will eventually have a built 370 with a D1. Looking for around 700hp. How many people got them and who didn't.

 

I have a MWC backbraced. It really wasnt that expensive so i say what the hell. For your power level i would say do it so you know you have a strong piece of equipment and wont have to worry about it.

 

The standard Moser 9 inch doesn't need a backbrace unless you're running deep into the 8's in the 1/4 mile. The fabricated rears such as the Moser M9 are much lighter and a backbrace should be added, in my opinion, for any performance use. Bob

 

we suggest the use of a backbrace at 550-600 rwhp max. one thing about the brace is is cannot be installed later as it will bend the housing and misalign everything, and the worst thing is without one you wont know if you have too much housing flex until it's too late

 

Is that 550-600hp recommendation with a stick or an auto? Assuming the stick has no slipper clutch, they can be quite brutal on a rear compared to an automatic.

 

Im at about 525RWHP motor and 800+ on N2O I decided to get the back brace option on my MWC9.

If I would get off the computer and in the garage I could finish the install and drive the beast again today. haha

 

With either the MWC or the Moser M9, I would go with a backbrace for sure. Bob

 

nonsense....

all you have to do is cut the axle ends off and install the narrowing fixture, and re weld the axle ends.

mine turned out fine.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...ed-9-inch.html

 

i went with the backbrace option just for safety and piece of mind. for the extra like $150 nthat it is dont skimp now and wish you had it later. plus if you neve need it youll never have to worry cuz youll have an extra strong strong rear end lol

 

are you kidding me? why would someone who is borderline needing or not a brace installed at the time of their build not do it for the 150 installed we charge? after all that is the subject here.

lets put this into better perspective for customers to know what it would really take to install a brace after they already have a rearend without one.

narrowing fixture like we use 475.00-500.00
housing brace kit from us 100.00
welding shop labor to have the housing narrowed 150.00(could easily be more)
sandblast ruined powdercoating 100.00
new powdercoating 100.00-150.00

you could run into 1000.00 possibly to have this done if it would come down to this, so spending 150.00 on it to have it done right the first time ends up being a real good deal, and then the axle tubes are inline with the housing ends which will not be the case if the brace is added later, even with the fixture! even if you could find someone that has a fixture your labor and materials cost will far exceed having the brace installed when the hosing is built.

yes you most definitely can install a housing brace at a later time, but it just doesn't make sense.

 

didnt mean to come off as an ***. i appolagize. i totally understand its cheaper to have it done at the time of build. but someone like me, who bought a 9 inch used without a housing brace, and needed it, its not difficult/impossible to weld it on at a later time. of course, in my case, which i know put me in the position to do this, I had access to a shop (school) where all the narrowing fixtures and fab equipment is to make my own backbrace, and weld it on.

mine cost me an LS1 intake that my teacher needed, in trade for the peice of steel for me to make my backbrace. otherwise, i did all the work.

yes i removed my powder coating, however, since this car is only going to be used in good weather and on the track, i opted to use POR-15 to paint it.

but i agree with you, if the customer is even remotely close to *needing* a backbrace, its beyond smart to have it done for 150 bucks at time of purchace. even if you dont need it, its cheap insurance because you might need it one day down the road.

 

Moser only charges $140.00 for the backbrace supplied and installed when the rear is ordered. Bob